Unhandled Mora blades???

[Hammock Hamster]

Anyone know if mora carving blades, 106/120 etc..., are available as an unhandled blank?

I fancy trying out making some personalised handles but don’t relish the idea of having to break off the original.
I just picked up a mora “basic” carving knife for about half the price of a normal 120, about £11, but this looks even more difficult to remove.

Any thoughts?

Cheers all, Hamster


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[Robson Valley]

I've started with less than a dozen, some right and left-handed pairs, of Mora 171, farrier's knives. A couple of #188.
The blades are dry-hafted with 2-piece cutlery rivets that I drilled out.

I was not concerned in the least as I wanted to surface-haft the blades in the typical Pacific Northwest native crooked carving knife style.
The result was that a couple of factory handles were demolished with a chisel to free the blade.
I decided that there was no turning back so just bashed away at them.

Beginner's luck, I suppose. Every one of them turned out better than I expected with a new handle of a size to fit my hands.
I studied old knives in a museum.
I did quick softwood handle carvings to find what I liked.
The final ones were glue-up laminates of 1/8" mahogany and rosewood junk.

 

[Mesquite]

Brisa do the equivelant blade blanks to 106 and 120

As for the basic mora carving knife if it's the one with a plastic handle it's very simple to remove the handle.

Put it in a vice and either use a hammer and wood chisel to chip the plastic off or use a hacksaw to cut down the side of the tang and handle. Should take all of 5 minutes max

 

[Jared]

https://morakniv.se/en/product/knife-blade-blanks/?wcmlc=EUR&currency=EUR

Ah UK
http://www.woodlandcraftsupplies.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_39

 

[Janne]

I have taken off several dufferent handles. The models with a soft outer layer are a pig to remove, the soft plastic squeezes the saw blade. If you cut from the blade down, alongsude it, you will scratch the blade (done that).
The easiest is to cut starting from the handle end 1.5 in, and cut straught off.

When you have reached the tang, cut alongside it until you almost reach the blade.

 

[crosslandkelly]

Wrap the blade in masking or gaffer tape before you start cutting.

 

[Janne]

Ah, clever!
I used paper masking tape and the blade went through and scratched the blade.
But I think both ways are equally fast.

The trick with my way is knowing where the end of the tang and the cut out is.

Interesting to see you did the new handle in two halves.
I have so far drilled and filed a hole for the tang in solid pieces. Will do it your way nect time, and add a contrasting piece of wood inbetween the halves.
Thinking: if the cintrasting piece is made as thick as the tang, you do a cutout following the tand.this way the other two pieces if wood can be kept flat.

Thinking brass bolster, straight grained Birch and a contrasting mahogany strip, brass reinforcing pins where the cutouts are.


NOTE.: iI am impressed how tidy your shop is. Mine is a dump.....