Timber garage bracing help?

Alreetmiowdmuka

Full Member
Apr 24, 2013
1,106
13
Bolton
Alreet.i'm hoping for some advice off the extremely resourceful folk of bcuk.
Cut a long story short I'm building a timber garage for a customer. This has been a bit of a design and build project and I've reached a stumbling block and can't figure out how too brace the door.the problem is that the customer wants an up/over door and I can't put gallows type bracing at the front.i hope the pics describe this better
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The small diagonal braces in the opening corners need to be removed too accommodate the door this weakens the structure considerably..I have braced the roof and gables ends with plywood and formed a king post truss in the middle of the garage.whist this makes the structure for the rest of the garage very stable it does not stop the wobble at the opening end of the garage
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Hope this makes sense.


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Last edited:

dwardo

Bushcrafter through and through
Aug 30, 2006
6,463
492
47
Nr Chester
Easy,

Tell them they want proper doors instead! Personally think an up and over would ruin that lovely structure.
 

crosslandkelly

Full Member
Jun 9, 2009
26,499
2,400
67
North West London
Personally I don't think it needs anymore bracing, the sheet of ply in the gable above the door will give all the rigidity you need.

Oops, sorry, just reread the post. How about getting something like this made up, and fixing them to the inside of the frame. The large L bracket.

Hammered_L_T_brackets_2_sizes copy.jpg
 
Last edited:

Alreetmiowdmuka

Full Member
Apr 24, 2013
1,106
13
Bolton
Personally I don't think it needs anymore bracing, the sheet of ply in the gable above the door will give all the rigidity you need.

Oops, sorry, just reread the post. How about getting something like this made up, and fixing them to the inside of the frame. The large L bracket.

View attachment 36348

Yep I thought that too I even covered the whole roof in ply too add sum stability n front end still has movement.i'm liking the the l bracket idea though.if I get two big ones n fix them in the top corners on the inside..going across the head and down the legs.could very well be the answer


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Alreetmiowdmuka

Full Member
Apr 24, 2013
1,106
13
Bolton
looking good mate. how about some oak elbows grafted to the outside uprights? if you can find some 90 deg ones, they would do the job and look in keeping. saying that, trying to find them may prove quite tricky.

Yeah it's not bad for some reclaimed railway sleepers is it.cheap n all really.just need sort the opening nightmare out.shabby chic!I think they call it


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Alreetmiowdmuka

Full Member
Apr 24, 2013
1,106
13
Bolton
Two questions:
How is the post jointed to the door lintel/header?
How are the posts jointed to the dwarf brick wall?

Rob.

The head is half lapped on too one side of 10"x6" post this has been fixed with 2 x 9" couch screws.the head beam that runs down the side is fixed to the same post half lapped on n couch screwed together..the slab was already in place when I started the job so I screwed wallplate straps too this and fixed my uprights off them.(would have preferred too concrete them in) the 4x2 walls that infill between the sleepers are also fixed down too the dwarf wall.


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dewi

Full Member
May 26, 2015
2,647
13
Cheshire
Could you use a steel reinforcing bar hidden behind the doorway beam to tie the walls together and add strength?
 

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