The perfect Bushcraft knife!

[Hoodoo]

That sounds good Sal. I think it's important to remember, though, that where a lot of knives fail for bushcraft is in the handle. It needs to be wide enough to give plenty of support for the hard use of woodcraft. Nothing gets your attention more than to try to carve seasoned hard wood with a narrow, poorly contoured handle. It hurts. That's why even carving knives with small blades typically have large handles. BTW, I'd vote for 3 mm.

Also, I would make the secondary bevel a small one. It's easier to get rid of.

 

[happy camper]

sounds exciting, look forward to seeing it!

 

[tarmix101]

It sounds great. I have never used a knife made out of 52100, but look forward to it. As far as thickness, I would go for 3mm. Just my preference. Thanks Sal :You_Rock_

Look forward to the pics.....

 

[British Red]

Sal,

Another one for 3mm mate!

I'm with hoodoo on the handle! As it happens, I do quite like the blade layout on the Grohmann boat knife, but that handle gives me the shudders - I't be quicker to list whats right than whats wrong (I speak as a bloke who owns a Grohmann skinner). I'm sure its great for its purpose, but its not right for my bush knife

Red

 

[Andy]

There seems to be a difference in the US UK way of doing things. It seems a lot of people in the US want a flat grind knife which then needs to be a bit thicker to keep teh strength up while most of us in the UK want 3mm thick blade but one which is 3mm for about half the depth. I wonder which is the stronger format.

 

[Shinken]

I actually am begining to quite like knives that are a lil squarish, the f1 is a little too squarish i think. 3mm is also my ideal for a flat grind 4mm is better with hollow grind me thinks.

the replies in this thread just go to show how personnel a knife is, what feels confortable to one isnt to another!

 

[British Red]

Aaah but you just voted for sal to stick with 3mm flat ground! Cheers Ash (pssst tell him you really fancy 25mm width too )

Red

 

[demographic]

The "perfect" knife is the relativley unexpensive one that you carry with you...

The three hundred quid one crafted from finest unobtanium with the vanishingly rare exotic hardwood handle that's left at home cos it's "too nice" to use is about as much use as an ashtray on a motorbike

It's amazing that prehistoric man managed to evolve modern levels of sophistication without owning any one particular type of knife, perhaps they were just far more adaptable than us...

On to the "handedness" of the sheath, why not just make a certain amount (about 13-15% if THESE figures are anything to go by) of the sheaths for southpaws and offer a factory exchange policy on new sheaths so if someone buys a knife they can exchange sheath for the right one?
If they buy a secondhand knife then they will have to buy it instead cos otherwise the factory ends up with loads of secondhand sheaths.
That was you don't have an ambedexterous sheath that looks like a right dogs dinner.

Also the knife should come from the factory with a few scratches on it to stop people poncing around with them , a bit like Land Rovers should have a few factory installed dents and dings so people who buy em don't just do it to pose in Tesco's carpark and never take em offroad.

 

[sal.]

I guess 3mm it is. Sometimes I'm easy, at least that's what my wife, Gail, says.

Hi Hoodoo,

I'l be hand carving the handle myself to get the ergos comfortable. There has been some discussion on handles being too thin, so I need more input.

Best heigth?

Best thickness?

Blades are for cutting. Handles are for holding. They do not, IMO, have to be "balanced" to the eye.

I realy appreciate the input on the project. It's this kind of project that makes the job fun.

sal

 

[Shinken]

Oh and bu the way i think 25mm width is just about perfect :BlueTeamE

 

[British Red]

Thats another pint I owe you ash

 

[Nemisis]

Sal handles are more individual than blades in the majority of cases the one thing most agree about is that it should be stablised, many like liners and a lanyard tube. Why not do like many custom makers here and make two versions 1) fully finished 2) a finished blade,sheath and blocks, liners,bolts etc for those wishing to build and finish there own handle? Works out cheaper for you in production costs and the buyer gets a semi customised knife.
Dave.

 

[British Red]

I guess 3mm it is. Sometimes I'm easy, at least that's what my wife, Gail, says. sal

:You_Rock_



Best heigth? 1 11/4" across the ricasso (30mm)

Best thickness? 3/4" to 1" (16 to 22 mm)

Length 4 1/2 " (110mm)

Thats right for me, but I have been accused of "girly hands" - oh and it must be contoured!


Red

 

[Naruska]

sheath-wise, the J.P.Peltonen Ranger knife is the most versatile I have ever bumped into...available left- or righthanded, can be hung from the belt, strapped horizontal, or hung upside down on a shoulder strap...and the knife (capable of making feathersticks or digging a trench...)is easily withdrawn and replaced with one hand at all times...no need to fiddle with buckles etc...

Marko

 

[Martyn]

After many drawings and "soft" models based on input here and other forums, we do have a "pattern" made of a "bushblade". Nothing is decided yet as I'm still waiting on some outside designs.

It's not quite a spear, but dropped a little more than a drop point.
The blade length is just under 100mm.
Blade depth is 29mm.
Point is 12mm below spine line at rear.
Thickness on the model is 3mm, but I think I'd like to go 3.5mm.
Handle length is 123mm.
Material is 52100 carbon steel.
Model is full flat grind with 32 degree edge, 59Rc, I wanted to do a CATRA test
on Monday and needed something to test.
I'll try to post a pic on Monday for your thoughts. (need help on pics)

This will also give Red, Tiffers & team some idea of the direction.

sal

Sounds good Sal, well apart from the full flat grind. Can I ask why you chose that grind?

For woodworking, I'm a to the core fan of the scandinavian grind. I just havent come accross anything yet that can match it for that task. I'm not saying it cant be matched, just that I havent come accross it yet. I'm not trying to be awkward, just curious. You've obviously taken a design choice to buck the trend, I'm curious about the rationalle for that?

Ta.
Martyn.

 

[British Red]

Martyn,

Is this grounds for a poll to help sal out? Sort of

- Scandy
- Full
- Convex
- Hollow

Summat like that anyway?

Red

 

[Labrador]

Grohmann Flat Grind Boat knife for me I'm afraid!
Just for interests sake, A. Wright & Sons in Sheffield were designing a Bushcraft Knife for factory production & therefore at a more reasonable price.
May be worth a look by those of us who are more "budget concious"!
:swordfigh

 

[Andy]

A. Wright & Sons in Sheffield were designing a Bushcraft :

maybe someone on here said there might be a market for one

I'm glad Sal has gone for 3mm and not 3.5
my design came out at 27mm with a 3mm thick blade and scandi grind with a drop of 12mm

as for the handle I'm a fan of ones which flair out slightly. My scandi has little drop behind the little finger which stops it sliding through my hand when chopping with it. I'd like a fishtail type shape if looking at teh handle from above as well. The F1 has this a little bit but the handle is a little thin.
For the most part I think the handle should be about the same heigh as the blade, maybe with a little bit of curve at the top (star at same height as the blade and raise a couple of mm and then drop back down slightly below the spine height where the handle flairs outwwards.

I think I;d find it far easier to just cut a handle shape from styrofoam and send a 3D modle to you.

 

[British Red]

Andy,

Could you make the whole knife out of styrofoam and post a pic? Not grind obviously but the hilt in context of the blade always helps! I like the sound of the fishtail, but I think images really help the imagination challenged (me)

Red

 

[Andy]

not until I get back to sheffield at least. It may be possible for me to knock up a profile design once I get back though. rough shape could use ply wood for the blade and glue on something that I could shape for the handle