Teaching yourself axecraft?
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I've been using axes of various sorts for over 40 years and never cut myself (or anybody else at that matter) and was self taught. On the other hand I have done damage with a bush saw!!! What you treat with respect is usually reasonably safe.
The danger that self taught people forget with axes is that they are (usually) made of hard steel. If you hit a stone or another piece of hard steel they can chip and even a very small piece of flying steel in your eye can blind you for good. Never ever chop down where the axe can hit the ground or anything else hard.
Just my two pence worth
Cheers.
The danger that self taught people forget with axes is that they are (usually) made of hard steel. If you hit a stone or another piece of hard steel they can chip and even a very small piece of flying steel in your eye can blind you for good. Never ever chop down where the axe can hit the ground or anything else hard.
Just my two pence worth
Cheers.
Firstly decide what you want an axe for? You can do most things in bushcraft with a half decent wee saw and knife. (Doesn't need to be exensive either).
What are axes used for in bushcraft, I would argue very little compared with the above. I've been using axes since I was 5 or 6 when I used to help chop kindling for the fire and then later while I trained in forestry we did a hand tools course which included axe use (almost redundant in modern forestry). I've had one accident while chopping kindling, when I was 14 I was holding some wood with my left hand and my hand axe bounce off a knot and went through the meaty part of my thumb. I soon learned about knots!
Axes are dangerous but they are fun, liberating even. It's easy to use an axe, it's not hard, no course will give you those skills, common sense and learning about the feel (and sound) of the axe on green and seasoned wood and how the axe behaves differently on both and learning through use about angles, and safety will. Keep it sharp, keep cool and absolutley keep focussed as once that momentum starts and the axe swings, it's hard to stop!
I would argue, forget the axe and get yourself a Billhook...much superior and the best indigenous forest tool we have!
What are axes used for in bushcraft, I would argue very little compared with the above. I've been using axes since I was 5 or 6 when I used to help chop kindling for the fire and then later while I trained in forestry we did a hand tools course which included axe use (almost redundant in modern forestry). I've had one accident while chopping kindling, when I was 14 I was holding some wood with my left hand and my hand axe bounce off a knot and went through the meaty part of my thumb. I soon learned about knots!
Axes are dangerous but they are fun, liberating even. It's easy to use an axe, it's not hard, no course will give you those skills, common sense and learning about the feel (and sound) of the axe on green and seasoned wood and how the axe behaves differently on both and learning through use about angles, and safety will. Keep it sharp, keep cool and absolutley keep focussed as once that momentum starts and the axe swings, it's hard to stop!
I would argue, forget the axe and get yourself a Billhook...much superior and the best indigenous forest tool we have!
When i was about 5-6 years old i saw my dad cutting kindlers, he went inside for a minute and left the small axe lying on the block, i thought id have a shot, seconds later i had a cut in the back of my head bleeding quite badly and a dent in my skull, had stitches and from then on respected axes :s My friend was cutting wood in low light last year, put the axe into his finger JUST missing tendons etc, had some stitches too and now has a nice scar.
i use a small axe to carve rough bowls, spoons etc, just take your time like others have said. Everyone has there own style so sure you will develop yours.
i use a small axe to carve rough bowls, spoons etc, just take your time like others have said. Everyone has there own style so sure you will develop yours.
for a starter axe i wouldnt get a wetterlings, yes they are cheeper than a GB but theres only about £10-15 in it?? personaly i would get a second hand axe from a bootsale. many old axes are just as well made as a wetterlings or GB but can cost a few quid or less. you mite damege or muck up the edge because of lack of experience. so get a cheep axe to start off with and if you reely feel the need to you can upgrade to a GB or similar.
personaly think gransfors brucks are a tad over rated, yes they are good but there are cheeper alternatives which are just as good.
bahco make good quality axes if u dont want to go second hand, much better value for money than wetterlings imo
pete
personaly think gransfors brucks are a tad over rated, yes they are good but there are cheeper alternatives which are just as good.
bahco make good quality axes if u dont want to go second hand, much better value for money than wetterlings imo
pete
I would argue, forget the axe and get yourself a Billhook...much superior and the best indigenous forest tool we have!
Yeah, I'd agree.
The only time I think an axe is the best tool for the job is limbing. Obviously personal preference, but once the tree is down, delimbing it with an axe is almost effortless, and being 6'4" the extra handle length means less bending over.
Everything else is just as easy, or easier with either saws (bow, cross) and/or billhook.
Have you ever swung an axe Tadpole?I agree, the sharp bit of an axe is normally at least a foot away from anything that bleeds and is pink, which a knife the distance is measured in inches/mm
When one whistles past your ankle at 100 mph because you've caught a glancing blow you'll be amazed how close the sharp bit can come to something that bleeds and is pink.
I've just re-started using axes, it's been about 8yrs since I last used one and the third swing put me in a&e lol. I just got a cheap axe off the local market to see how I get on, I've used a machette for the last god knows how long and wanted to see which I preffer.
Like most, I taught myself - with a little knowlege from when I was in scouts. It's mostly common sense and like others have said - think through what'll happen if the cut goes wrong and make sure wherever the axe goes isn't into you (or anyone else for that matter).
Another good tip is to have the axe travel in a near straight line just before, just after and as it hits the wood - the straight line heading for the chopping block. This is better than the axe traveling in an arc as the lower half of an arc is headed towards you.
You can't just cut straight through a bit of wood, you need to cut into it at 35-34degrees and the next cut the opposite way (takes a notch out) then you take chips off either side in the same way. When doing this, don't put your foot on the log as if you miss the axe can glance into your foot - hammer a peg into the ground at either end to stop the log moveing instead.
Just use your head, keep out of the axes way and keep it sharp and you'll be fine.
One last note, I've found my axe (which is as sharp as my knife) tires me out a lot quicker than my machette does but isn't much faster, maybe worth considering?
In the same boat as you Wilderbeast, have recently purchased a small second hand axe (so far my fingers are still intact!), however the head has developed a little wobble, have tried soaking in boiled linseed oil for a couple of hours but this seems to be just a temporary fix.
I was thinking of buying a small Bahco hand axe as they are cheap as chips and seem to have half decent write ups on the web.
I've just started to learn to split small logs as Ray does (on the extras part of his bushcraft DVD), where he places the axe on top of the wood and brings them down simultaneously on to a log. This seems to be very effective, but like you I would rather get some tuition before attempting the other techniques.
I was thinking of buying a small Bahco hand axe as they are cheap as chips and seem to have half decent write ups on the web.
I've just started to learn to split small logs as Ray does (on the extras part of his bushcraft DVD), where he places the axe on top of the wood and brings them down simultaneously on to a log. This seems to be very effective, but like you I would rather get some tuition before attempting the other techniques.
I got my first axe, a horrible little Draper hand axe, in 1995 and have been mostly self taught. I moved up to a Gransfors Small Forest some time around 2002. So far, no cuts at all. A few almost oops moments, but nothing that has actually touched clothing.
More recently I have read a couple of good booklets, and attended Jed Yarnold's axe workshops at the Moots and I would say that that instruction, both writen and demonstrated was a great help. It was particularly good for pointing out safe ways of doing things.
Instruction isn't pre-requisite, but if you can find some then it helps. I wouldn't not get an axe because I hadn't had training, but I would take things very carefully.
There are a couple good things to read on the Download area.
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/downloads/pdf/woodsmanship.pdf
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/downloads/pdf/mclarenmanual.pdf
http://scoutmaster.typepad.com/axegrind.pdf
More recently I have read a couple of good booklets, and attended Jed Yarnold's axe workshops at the Moots and I would say that that instruction, both writen and demonstrated was a great help. It was particularly good for pointing out safe ways of doing things.
Instruction isn't pre-requisite, but if you can find some then it helps. I wouldn't not get an axe because I hadn't had training, but I would take things very carefully.
There are a couple good things to read on the Download area.
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/downloads/pdf/woodsmanship.pdf
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/downloads/pdf/mclarenmanual.pdf
http://scoutmaster.typepad.com/axegrind.pdf
o.k well what I would use it for mainly would be de-limbing branches and shaping them for shelters, also a bit of spoon carving, would a catchet type thing be too small for that??
Aside from the links above there is the axe book on amazon which I've heard is very good (haven't personally read it). Mors Kochanski's book is awesome when it comes to axes and his cutting tools video helps put actions t words and is probably the next best thing to lessons.
If you can afford a decent Axe then buy one that is made by real smiths, for example Gransfors Bucks, i prefer the Forester Axe, as it has a decent weight, and is good for most apart from big felling and cariving.
The Hobbit
The Hobbit
my tip would be:
when starting to work on a new section of wood (splitting a log, or whatever) - do a semi hard cut with a good strong grip before going for a full on whack, sometimes the position you have the wood in can cause a suprising amount of bounceback, and giving it a full whack in this position can be alarming at best, esp if your axe isnt fully sharp.
oh, and when splitting logs, never underestimate the use of a good lump of wood as a batton to hit the axe with, while not moving the axe at all.. then again, you can still whack your fingers if your clumsy.
when starting to work on a new section of wood (splitting a log, or whatever) - do a semi hard cut with a good strong grip before going for a full on whack, sometimes the position you have the wood in can cause a suprising amount of bounceback, and giving it a full whack in this position can be alarming at best, esp if your axe isnt fully sharp.
oh, and when splitting logs, never underestimate the use of a good lump of wood as a batton to hit the axe with, while not moving the axe at all.. then again, you can still whack your fingers if your clumsy.
There are some good books you can learn from, as well as a lot of videos on Youtube. (The problem then becomes separating the wisdom from the BS.)
Still, nothing beats having a knowledgeable instructor observe and correct your techniques.
I took a couple of Mors Kojanski's courses and was both humbled and pleasantly surprised at how much I learned about axes as well as knives.
Still, nothing beats having a knowledgeable instructor observe and correct your techniques.
I took a couple of Mors Kojanski's courses and was both humbled and pleasantly surprised at how much I learned about axes as well as knives.
Can`t tell you what to do, but I learnt myself to use an axe.
And ride a bicycle, and, yes, drive a car, and lot of other things.
But since you are not allowed to drive selftought I had to get instruction to get the licence .
An axe is a dangerouse tool but I have no scars from learning/using one. A knife on the other hand...
Most things could be learnt by observation of others, reading books and then do it yourself. If you can read you can learn most things.
Now a little rant.
I`m really amazed over how much people go to courses to learn things that they could learn themselves for free.
(Ok. I admit that a course will make you (mostly) learn faster)
Tor
And ride a bicycle, and, yes, drive a car, and lot of other things.
But since you are not allowed to drive selftought I had to get instruction to get the licence
.An axe is a dangerouse tool but I have no scars from learning/using one. A knife on the other hand...
Most things could be learnt by observation of others, reading books and then do it yourself. If you can read you can learn most things.
Now a little rant.
I`m really amazed over how much people go to courses to learn things that they could learn themselves for free.
(Ok. I admit that a course will make you (mostly) learn faster)
Tor
robin wood
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
That's an interesting point and my guess is that most folk on the forum here are actualy mainly self taught with help from books, dvd's Ray Meers TV forum advice etc. Some do an odd course and some do a course every year.
I like to do craft courses, basket making etc simply for fun. I prefer to spend my holiday doing something like that with a nice group of people who are into similar stuff rather than blobbing on a beach and drinking beer. I can see bushcraft courses having the same appeal. This year I'll be doing Bow Making with Fredde from youtube and I hope next year to do flint napping with John Lord.
I had been using knives and axes for ten years as a professional forester then wood craftsman learning techniques from books. I still learned an enormous amount when I did a course with Wille Sundqvist. Most self taught people can safely use 2 or 3 knife grips safely and can make most of what they want to with that. When you watch film from the 1930's of old woodworkers or see someone today who is really competent with a knife you see they use maybe 6 different grips regularly, this often lets you get to parts of an object you are working on where you would struggle otherwise.
Good technique also gives extra power, control, efficiency which means you make your thing faster without getting tired which is more fun. Tor comes from a culture where knife use is much more common than the UK so probably has seen other folk using knives well. The truth is proper knife use has not been taught in the UK for hundreds of years. The skills died completely other than a few professional knife users such as the welsh spoon carvers. In the UK we stopped wearing belt knives at the end of the Tudor period. Then in the early 20th C the scout movement introduced a very simplistic teaching which is what most folk got taught by their dad if they were lucky. This may be safe but it is very limited. It is possible to learn from books, youtube and experiment but it takes a lot of time, a course can be great fun and you can learn in 3 days what would take many months through experimentation. Why reinvent the wheel when there is a wheelmaker next door?
I am of course very biased because I run knife and axe courses but I like to think I would say the same if i didn't.
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