Sycamore as a longbow wood??

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Ranger Bob

Nomad
Aug 21, 2004
286
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41
Suffolk
Calling all bowyers and anyone else who might know.....

I've been told that sycamore can be used to make a decent selfbow.....is this true?

Does anyone have any experience of making bows from sycamore?

Cheers.
 

Bardster

Native
Apr 28, 2005
1,118
12
54
Staplehurst, Kent
Ranger Bob said:
Calling all bowyers and anyone else who might know.....

I've been told that sycamore can be used to make a decent selfbow.....is this true?

Does anyone have any experience of making bows from sycamore?

Cheers.
If you read the bowyers bible it appears you can make a bow out of pretty much any wood. And many of the other books agree with this to an extent. What is important is the TYPE of bow. White woods and and others such as elm and oak are completely unsuitable for the english stacked D-section longbow. But they are perfectly suited to the Flat bow of american styling ( which is why they get such good press in the archers bible) Another style which works are the prehistoric bows of Mear Heath and Holmguard styles. If anyone recalls I had both an oak and an elm prehistoric bow at the July bushmoot. Patterned after the aforementioned types. Most of the bow making books have patterns for this style of bow. The hilary greenland one is rather good.

HTH
 
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troy

Forager
Aug 9, 2004
167
2
moray, scotland
www.mtn-m.co.uk
sycomore, I have found is quite comparable with ash. Atleast with most of the examples I have made from boards.

I have not made a bow from a sycomore staves yet, so cannot really comment on that, but with boards the style I have used is pyromid with low rectangle profiles. As with most bows made from boards, a flat self bow is the preferable way to get the most out of the wood and to prevent to much set.

It is a really nice wood to work with and comes up good once finished. If you are using board wood, just make sure the growth lines run from top to bottom, this is more important with sycomore as I had one of my bows develop severe whip ends where the growth rings ran off to the sides.

hope this helps
 

Ranger Bob

Nomad
Aug 21, 2004
286
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Suffolk
Thanks Troy.

I've got one log, 6" across, 7 foot long with dead straight grain ( :D ). I cut it this week while doing some pruning for someone and its now in the workshop seasoning.

What prompted me to ask was that with some of the narrower branches I noticed that they were fairly springy, which reminded me that someone told me it made decent bows.
 

troy

Forager
Aug 9, 2004
167
2
moray, scotland
www.mtn-m.co.uk
If you can split enough staves from wood you have, then probably the best and maybe more fun thing to do is experiment and make a wide and a narrow bow together.

Plus if they are still farly green, I recently cut two small bows from an ash branch I found, right down to their near finished dimensions (ensure you leave 2 or 3 inches on ends to check splits) and placed them in a clamp to make recurves - maybe you could could try this on a third stave, I do not know if sycomore could take the extra strain, but you won't be breaking any laws if you feel like adding on a backing.
 
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C_Claycomb

Moderator staff
Mod
Oct 6, 2003
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Bedfordshire
First a quick warning for research. The Americans use "Sycamore" to describe a different type of tree, more like our Plane Tree.
http://www.bowsite.com/bowsite/tf/lw/thread2.cfm?forum=23&threadid=121158&messages=12&CATEGORY=4
http://www.bowsite.com/bowsite/tf/lw/thread2.cfm?forum=23&threadid=116803&messages=11&CATEGORY=4

I reckon this is the stuff we have here
http://www.rfs.org.uk/thirdlevel.asp?ThirdLevel=66&SecondLevel=34

I have thought that the sycamore we have here is a bit light for a bow wood, but as Bardster says, you can make a bow out of just about anything if its wide and long enough to stand the strain.

I would probably use about the same dimensions I use for ash flat bows and see what happens. I might make it a bit wider. Maybe 72" long by 2.25 wide. 2" wide and 68 long would probably be enough for a 40lb and more with practice, but I like to overbuild bows when playing with new wood.

I have had success with ash letting the wood sit for a few weeks, maybe 3, then splitting and reducing the quaters to 1-1.5" thick x 2.5-3 wide, coat ends in PVA and let season for 8 months. Seasoning can be shortened by further reducing dimension as the wood dries. That is the careful way, I had problems when splitting and reducing ash too soon after cutting, it warped lots. Could have just been that tree though.

If you want a good place for bow info, check the Leatherwall on Stickbow.com, part of the Bowsite. Tim Baker, Jim Hamm, Dean Torges and Paul Comstock (some of the authors of the Traditional Bowyers Bibles) have all been members on there and answered questions....that is, if the questions haven't already been covered! Its a good site.

http://www.bowsite.com/bowsite/tf/lw/thread2.cfm?forum=23&threadid=123058&messages=17&CATEGORY=4
 
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nickg

Settler
May 4, 2005
890
5
69
Chatham
Bardster said:
If you read the bowyers bible it appears you can make a bow out of pretty much any wood. And many of the other books agree with this to an extent. What is important is the TYPE of bow. White woods and and others such as elm and oak are completely unsuitable for the english stacked D-section longbow. But they are perfectly suited to the Flat bow of american styling ( which is why they get such good press in the archers bible) Another style which works are the prehistoric bows of Mear Heath and Holmguard styles. If anyone recalls I had both an oak and an elm prehistoric bow at the July bushmoot. Patterned after the aforementioned types. Most of the bow making books have patterns for this style of bow. The hilary greenland one is rather good.

HTH
Bardster I agree with your comments about the suitability of oak for bowyery but not about elm. The english (and particularly Welsh) warbow of the medieval was every bit as popular and effective in elm as in yew. Gerald of wales in the 1300's comments on the power of the welsh elm bow, pinning the thigh of an english knight to his saddle tree and then doing the same on the other side as he turned to leave the field. I have made a fine logbow from some nice kiln-dried american red elm and I cant fault it. Oay for sure is unyealding when braced and shoots hard in the hand but well balanced elm drawing 75is pounds at 28 inches gives an excellant loose - give it a try.
 

Bardster

Native
Apr 28, 2005
1,118
12
54
Staplehurst, Kent
nickg said:
Bardster I agree with your comments about the suitability of oak for bowyery but not about elm. The english (and particularly Welsh) warbow of the medieval was every bit as popular and effective in elm as in yew. Gerald of wales in the 1300's comments on the power of the welsh elm bow, pinning the thigh of an english knight to his saddle tree and then doing the same on the other side as he turned to leave the field. I have made a fine logbow from some nice kiln-dried american red elm and I cant fault it. Oay for sure is unyealding when braced and shoots hard in the hand but well balanced elm drawing 75is pounds at 28 inches gives an excellant loose - give it a try.

I would agree with you holeheartedly. infact the welsh longbows were of a particular type of elm called wych elm.. and I have been long trying to get some to try my hand at a longbow. Unfortunately its not a common wood in these parts, although its still fairly common in the north of Scotland I am told. Getting a piece suitable for bowmaking is proving to be rather difficult as no one wants to send such small quantities all the way down south without charging excessive amounts. The other problem I have found is that woodyards really dont differenciate so you would probably end up with any old piece of elm :(
 

nickg

Settler
May 4, 2005
890
5
69
Chatham
Bardster said:
I would agree with you holeheartedly. infact the welsh longbows were of a particular type of elm called wych elm.. and I have been long trying to get some to try my hand at a longbow. Unfortunately its not a common wood in these parts, although its still fairly common in the north of Scotland I am told. Getting a piece suitable for bowmaking is proving to be rather difficult as no one wants to send such small quantities all the way down south without charging excessive amounts. The other problem I have found is that woodyards really dont differenciate so you would probably end up with any old piece of elm :(
I had the same problem while looking in the local woodyard, thats when I saw the american elm - snapped up 3 metres of 80x80cm with a good straight grain. It beats my ash bow in feel, but then the ash has lasted about 6 years and apart from following the string quite noticeably its still shoots well. I am intrigued about the sycamore, it may be a little too fine grained to last, i shall find some and give it a try.
 

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