Strop stuff

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luckylee

On a new Journey
Aug 24, 2010
2,412
0
birmingham
i personally love the blue sharpi strop paste, i also use the bark river black and green, and to finish autosol.
hope that helps mate.
 

Samon

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Mar 24, 2011
3,970
44
Britannia!
old leather belt and some spit ;)

grandpa would be proud!

try out warthogs and see how things work, then try out the mroe premium brands later on if you fancy a change.
 

The Big Lebowski

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Aug 11, 2010
2,320
6
Sunny Wales!
I use the screwfix stuff... and while very good, looking like a chunk I was sent with a strop will outlive me, I just cant quite get a hair popping edge on A2 steel.

Its sharp, very, but I'm considering autosol if it really is that good for a final finish?

al.
 

scottishwolf

Settler
Oct 22, 2006
831
8
42
Ayr
Screwfix green stuff. One block will last just about forever, and works well.

Linky

Cheers

I'l second that, bought a pack about 6 years ago and still got about 80% of it. Get some autosol too though for putting the final scary sharp polished edge on the blade :)
 

Ian S

On a new journey
Nov 21, 2010
274
0
Edinburgh
I use the screwfix stuff... and while very good....I just cant quite get a hair popping edge on A2 steel..

Hmm, no idea I'm afraid. Sharpening does seem to be a bit of an art as well as a science, doesn't it? I can get my knives and wood carving tools up to what I think is pretty well razor sharp with the Screwfix green stuff. Are you taking care not to rock the edge during stropping, so that you aren't stropping at a higher (and blunter) angle?

Cheers
 

NathanG

Tenderfoot
Feb 18, 2007
85
0
33
Southend On Sea
i use flitz metal polish, bought a box of it on ebay a while ago and got loads in the pack, a big tube a small tube and a bottle or something like that. it works great for stropping and also works well for cleaning and polishing blades and gaurds.
 

The Big Lebowski

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Aug 11, 2010
2,320
6
Sunny Wales!
Hmm, no idea I'm afraid. Sharpening does seem to be a bit of an art as well as a science, doesn't it? I can get my knives and wood carving tools up to what I think is pretty well razor sharp with the Screwfix green stuff. Are you taking care not to rock the edge during stropping, so that you aren't stropping at a higher (and blunter) angle?

Cheers

I have no problems stropping, convex sharpening... I can oddly get my axe hair popping sharp, but not the A2.

Everyone seems very impressed with the autosol as a finisher, so I guess I'll give it a go!

Cheers, al.
 

Ian S

On a new journey
Nov 21, 2010
274
0
Edinburgh
Hmmm, sounds like sharpening itself isn't the problem - maybe it's the steel.

I'm sure that I've read somewhere (probably a woodworking forum) that A2 is a tougher steel than, say, O1 at the same hardness. Axminster Power Tools' catalogue also indicates that A2 blades are usually a touch harder than O1 blades from the same manufacturer (have a look at Lie-Neilson chisels). This means that spending say 2 minutes on a stone may be long enough for O1, but might not be long enough for A2. Are you raising a burr edge on the A2? What abrasives are you using, and do you have another choice available? I usually use wet & dry for the vast majority of my sharpening, but I break out the waterstones if I come across something that the wet & dry won't he deal with.

Good luck!
 

Zingmo

Eardstapa
Jan 4, 2010
1,295
117
S. Staffs
For a stainless blade I use a white compound called "Blizzard". Can't remember where I got it or how much it cost because, the piece I have has lasted me for years. You could try making your own.

Z
 

The Big Lebowski

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Aug 11, 2010
2,320
6
Sunny Wales!
Hmmm, sounds like sharpening itself isn't the problem - maybe it's the steel.

I'm sure that I've read somewhere (probably a woodworking forum) that A2 is a tougher steel than, say, O1 at the same hardness. Axminster Power Tools' catalogue also indicates that A2 blades are usually a touch harder than O1 blades from the same manufacturer (have a look at Lie-Neilson chisels). This means that spending say 2 minutes on a stone may be long enough for O1, but might not be long enough for A2. Are you raising a burr edge on the A2? What abrasives are you using, and do you have another choice available? I usually use wet & dry for the vast majority of my sharpening, but I break out the waterstones if I come across something that the wet & dry won't he deal with.

Good luck!

Thanks Ian... If I'm going to sharpen from scratch, I normall use W+D 1500, 2000, 2500 and it seems to take it to a fantastic edge. Routine stropping though just never seems to take it quite back to the edge it had from a decent resharpen.

It's not even heavily used to warrant going back to the paper. I think I just need a finer polishing compound to take is to shaving sharp. Burr edge wise, it never seems to really raise much, I normally start from 30 strops down to 25, 20, 15, 10, 5, 3 and then 10 each way.

Maybe it is just the steel... Its sharper than I would ever need as-is, its just nice to get the edge as smooth as possible.

Cheers, al.
 

mr dazzler

Native
Aug 28, 2004
1,722
83
uk
I mostly use solvol polish (aluminium oxide) and it works consistently well on the tormek wheel and other flat board strops. But recently I have started to use rouge bar on a fresh leather strop and it gives a better edge, I feel, than the autosol does.....it seems a bit more agressive.
 

michiel

Settler
Jun 19, 2006
578
2
36
Belgium - Herentals
I used to use cheaper compounds, but I got sucked into obsessive sharpening and I now only use the best compounds available.

I only use Hand American and Ken Schwartz compounds. I finish up to 0.125µ
 

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