On a recent trip to Borneo:
For those who have been to a remote part of the world, experienced culture much different and diverse to their own, and felt the joys of the simple life, I think you will all agree that no matter how intriguing the destination, the journey there was the highlight. Nothing less than amazing was the journey to Kampung Semban, home of the Ladies of the Rings.
With no more than 250 villagers, it really is an authentic Bidayuh village above the clouds.
After an hour long journey by van our group arrived at the entrance to the dam, apart from being a no go zone for journalists and cameras, the dirt track leading up to the trail head is unremarkable, apart from the sight of the dam and the beautiful scenery it will soon engulf.
As our organiser (bandel4) introduced some of the guides and porters, I was amazed by the loads some of them were carrying up. One lady was hauling at lead 35 kilos worth of provisions. As soon as the trail begins a sense of adventure and the unknown filled the air, scorching sun dug up earth melted into the greenery and shade of the jungle. After 20 minutes we reached the first of 2 bamboo bridges. 20 meters in length but no more than half a meter wide, I was one of the first to shuffle my way along the bridge. From afar it may look as if it were a scene for a stunt in an Indiana Jones movie but coming closer it was robustly built with steel cables for reinforcement but otherwise only bamboo was used. Moving on we encountered several locals making their way up to respective villages. The ease in which they move along the trails leaves one in awe.
Upon crossing the second bamboo bridge the sight of ripening hill padi greeted us warmly while we trudged on.
When we reached a small waterfall I was relieved and thought we were having lunch, I dived in and savored the cool emerald green water. After the whole group arrived I was told that it was just a brief stop and we needed to speed up if we wanted to reach another waterfall by lunch. Dressing quickly, I stumbled past Kampung Bojong and onto the path to the next waterfall.
The trail here turns from well established jungle track to seldom used paths.
We had opted to take the longer but less steep (or so I was told) root which passed by a large waterfall. But first we stopped at a smaller one (Susukung) for lunch. By now all of us were hungry, hot and sweaty. After another refreshing dip and a delicious lunch, we pushed to the next one. The trek became mostly uphill from here. Stairs made from logs with notches cut into them led us up, old bamboo platforms creaked as we crossed them, and even the guides were weary.
Finally, we reached the waterfall. It was really a sight for sore eyes! After cooling off in the water and playing around in the waterfalls (three or four consecutive ones!) We had to move out as it was threatening to rain. The path round the waterfalls was long and tiring.
After trudging on for what seemed like hours, we arrived at the villagers padi fields. It was a glorious sight to behold. When we finally reached the village, we were warmly welcomed by our hosts. I had some tea in Mr.Sagens house while half the group ate at Glens house. I was going to be staying in Jais house for the duration of our stay. Along with three others, I was impressed at how well everything had been laid out for us. I spent a while talking to Jai and his wife about their house and some of their possession which were all handmade and very elegant. The locals were all very friendly although they were a bit shy. The food served was very tasty as well as fresh. That night we were informed that those who wished to see the sun rise would need to wake up at 4oclock in the morning and take 1750 steps to the top of a nearby hill.
The next morning about ¾ of the group walked up the hill. The air was very fresh and the view was amazing although the sun was blocked out by clouds. On the way down we were shown the pepper being grown on the hillside as well as some tobacco plants.
After a hearty breakfast, we were shown the Barruk or warriors hut where ceremonies are still performed during Gawai. We were cautious to not touch anything without asking first as most things were taboo in some way. They had an extremely long drum (possibly the worlds longest) which is for ceremonial use. We were then taken to see the site of the old village, a honey tree and a small pondok of stones which bore a spiritual meaning. Later on, we were shown how they repair their parangs by using a traditional forge. This was very interesting as Glens father was showing how the blade was re-tempered and re-shaped.
That night, the Ladies of the Rings gave us their traditional welcoming dance. It was beautiful to watch but the fact was that the tradition of wearing brass rings around the neck, hands and legs has died out and these women are the sole reminders of that.
Talking to Sagen, he stated that the villagers may move in about 2-3 years time as they population is ageing and the children who study or work elsewhere say it is too remote to visit often.
This trip gave me an insight on how hard and yet rewarding a simple life can be in a remote place, and a brief view of a culture that may be washed away and forgotten soon.
I recently wrote this article for the Malaysian Nature Society newsletter, so I thought I should put it up for all to read and enjoy.
For more photo's and info, visit bandel4's site http://www.my-rainforest-adventures...emban-a-bidayuh-village-in-the-clouds-part-i/ follow all the parts and the photo's along the way!
I know BOD planned on coming with us, so here's what you missed!
Mathew the Sapek (tradisional guitar) master
.
Enjoy!
For those who have been to a remote part of the world, experienced culture much different and diverse to their own, and felt the joys of the simple life, I think you will all agree that no matter how intriguing the destination, the journey there was the highlight. Nothing less than amazing was the journey to Kampung Semban, home of the Ladies of the Rings.
With no more than 250 villagers, it really is an authentic Bidayuh village above the clouds.
After an hour long journey by van our group arrived at the entrance to the dam, apart from being a no go zone for journalists and cameras, the dirt track leading up to the trail head is unremarkable, apart from the sight of the dam and the beautiful scenery it will soon engulf.
As our organiser (bandel4) introduced some of the guides and porters, I was amazed by the loads some of them were carrying up. One lady was hauling at lead 35 kilos worth of provisions. As soon as the trail begins a sense of adventure and the unknown filled the air, scorching sun dug up earth melted into the greenery and shade of the jungle. After 20 minutes we reached the first of 2 bamboo bridges. 20 meters in length but no more than half a meter wide, I was one of the first to shuffle my way along the bridge. From afar it may look as if it were a scene for a stunt in an Indiana Jones movie but coming closer it was robustly built with steel cables for reinforcement but otherwise only bamboo was used. Moving on we encountered several locals making their way up to respective villages. The ease in which they move along the trails leaves one in awe.
Upon crossing the second bamboo bridge the sight of ripening hill padi greeted us warmly while we trudged on.
When we reached a small waterfall I was relieved and thought we were having lunch, I dived in and savored the cool emerald green water. After the whole group arrived I was told that it was just a brief stop and we needed to speed up if we wanted to reach another waterfall by lunch. Dressing quickly, I stumbled past Kampung Bojong and onto the path to the next waterfall.
The trail here turns from well established jungle track to seldom used paths.
We had opted to take the longer but less steep (or so I was told) root which passed by a large waterfall. But first we stopped at a smaller one (Susukung) for lunch. By now all of us were hungry, hot and sweaty. After another refreshing dip and a delicious lunch, we pushed to the next one. The trek became mostly uphill from here. Stairs made from logs with notches cut into them led us up, old bamboo platforms creaked as we crossed them, and even the guides were weary.
Finally, we reached the waterfall. It was really a sight for sore eyes! After cooling off in the water and playing around in the waterfalls (three or four consecutive ones!) We had to move out as it was threatening to rain. The path round the waterfalls was long and tiring.
After trudging on for what seemed like hours, we arrived at the villagers padi fields. It was a glorious sight to behold. When we finally reached the village, we were warmly welcomed by our hosts. I had some tea in Mr.Sagens house while half the group ate at Glens house. I was going to be staying in Jais house for the duration of our stay. Along with three others, I was impressed at how well everything had been laid out for us. I spent a while talking to Jai and his wife about their house and some of their possession which were all handmade and very elegant. The locals were all very friendly although they were a bit shy. The food served was very tasty as well as fresh. That night we were informed that those who wished to see the sun rise would need to wake up at 4oclock in the morning and take 1750 steps to the top of a nearby hill.
The next morning about ¾ of the group walked up the hill. The air was very fresh and the view was amazing although the sun was blocked out by clouds. On the way down we were shown the pepper being grown on the hillside as well as some tobacco plants.
After a hearty breakfast, we were shown the Barruk or warriors hut where ceremonies are still performed during Gawai. We were cautious to not touch anything without asking first as most things were taboo in some way. They had an extremely long drum (possibly the worlds longest) which is for ceremonial use. We were then taken to see the site of the old village, a honey tree and a small pondok of stones which bore a spiritual meaning. Later on, we were shown how they repair their parangs by using a traditional forge. This was very interesting as Glens father was showing how the blade was re-tempered and re-shaped.
That night, the Ladies of the Rings gave us their traditional welcoming dance. It was beautiful to watch but the fact was that the tradition of wearing brass rings around the neck, hands and legs has died out and these women are the sole reminders of that.
Talking to Sagen, he stated that the villagers may move in about 2-3 years time as they population is ageing and the children who study or work elsewhere say it is too remote to visit often.
This trip gave me an insight on how hard and yet rewarding a simple life can be in a remote place, and a brief view of a culture that may be washed away and forgotten soon.
I recently wrote this article for the Malaysian Nature Society newsletter, so I thought I should put it up for all to read and enjoy.
For more photo's and info, visit bandel4's site http://www.my-rainforest-adventures...emban-a-bidayuh-village-in-the-clouds-part-i/ follow all the parts and the photo's along the way!
I know BOD planned on coming with us, so here's what you missed!
Mathew the Sapek (tradisional guitar) master
Enjoy!
