Squaring the spine on a Kellam Puukko?

[bigjackbrass]

I found a mention in one of the sticky knife threads that the Kellam Wolverine doesn't work with a firesteel even if you were to square off the spine, but I can't find any comments regarding the Kellam Puukko from the same line.

Does anyone know whether grinding the spine square on this knife would be worthwhile? I'm no gearhead and the Puukko was the first outdoors knife I bought that wasn't either second-hand or a basic Mora type, so I'm hesitant to take a file to it on the off chance that it would work, but I don't believe it has quite the same steel as the Wolverine. Thanks for any advice.

 

[JonnyP]

Not sure of your knife there, isn't kellam the dealers..? Anyway, what harm can you do by squaring off the back...I squared off the back on my lapp puukko and it now works with a fire steel...Just stick it in a vice with something soft to support it and file away with a file that is not too course....

 

[bigjackbrass]

Sorry, I ought to have posted a link to the knife:

http://www.kellamknives.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_33_36_42&products_id=6

I was pretty much poised and ready to go with a file until I found that mention of the Wolverine. As far as I can tell the issue refers to a different sort of steel than the Puukko blade, but maybe I just need to grit my teeth, get on with it and stop being so precious about the knife... beautiful piece though it is

 

[falcon]

All the pukko's I've seen have been really poor with a firesteel so Jon's done well to sort his....even the veteran outdoorsman instructing us in Sweden used the tip of his blade with a firesteel. His view was that if he needed a fire to save his life he was happy to put up with resharpening his blade ! If I only take out a pukko, I make sure I've got a piece of hacksaw blade to use with a firesteel. The strange thing is, my Stromeng Leuku is perfectly effective with the firesteel..

 

[bigjackbrass]

All the pukko's I've seen have been really poor with a firesteel so Jon's done well to sort his....even the veteran outdoorsman instructing us in Sweden used the tip of his blade with a firesteel. His view was that if he needed a fire to save his life he was happy to put up with resharpening his blade !

I was lucky enough to be in Sweden with Ray Mears and Lars Falt a few years ago and Ray did the same thing with a (non-Woodlore) knife, explaining that the tip was the least important element of the blade in such a serious situation but to avoid using further along the edge.

Thanks for the reply. I'm still in two minds, but perhaps the best bet will be to seek the advice of the manufacturer before I apply the elbow grease to potentially little effect.

 

[heath]

I can understand how you feel about not wanting to take a file to your knife, I have a lapp puukko and I was apprehensive, but I did it and it worked fine. I then sanded the finish off the handle, oiled and waxed it and dipped the blade in vinegar. It now looks like an antique and I absolutely love it. I wouldn't worry about it too much, the worst case scenario is that it won't make a difference and your spine will be scratched a bit. You can easily polish it back up if you want.
Heath

 

[C_Claycomb]

As far as I know, there is no reason why taking a fine file to the spine of the Wildfinn Puukko should not improve it for use on a fire steel. A mill cut file, single cut, designed for sharpening things, will give a better finish than a smooth cut (double cut) file, but whatever you have handy. I have useded coarse sharpening hones to finish off if the file leaves too many tooth marks.

The knife is there to be used. These are not collectors peices, so go to work on them to make them do what you want them to do.

On the Wolverine, it is not the steel, so much as how it has been treated. What is more, the Wolverine blade WILL strike sparks from a fire steel, just not as well as it would if the spine was harder. The Kellam SPT blades (Precision Tempered) have a very hard, induction hardened cutting edge, and a softer spine. Both Stuart, Ed and Dave Goodworth (of Frontiers) are great fans of the PT blades, either in the Wolverine, or the same blade but in another maker's handle. Ed and Dave are instructors and they all use their knives a lot more than the average hobby bushcrafter.

If you are still unsure about filing the spine, why not just file a little at the tip, say just the first 1 inch? I often use the spine tip of my blade to "pry" a small spark off my rod into just the right spot in the tinder. That way you will know if the steel works how it should, and you won't have altered much of the knife to find out.

All the best

 

[bigjackbrass]

The knife is there to be used. These are not collectors peices, so go to work on them to make them do what you want them to do.

Absolutely. I bought the knife to use as with all of my kit, but when the question arose as to whether filing the spine would actually be of any use I had to ask myself if it would be worth trying.

After a little back-and-forth internal debate I've decided that the worst that can happen is a wasted half hour of filing, so as soon as I get the tools unpacked (I'm in the process of moving house) I think it'll be time to experiment

Thanks to everyone who responded to my question, both here and via PM.