Hi
Last week I posted that I was planning on sharpening my Frosts mora with waterstones that I'd got for Christmas and I'd asked for any hints or tips.
A couple of people posted that Ray had enclosed a Sharpening extra on one of his Bushcraft DVD's.
So with this in mind I dug out my DVD, I'm not big on the extras, and I searched the tutorial out.
Having found it I have literally hung on every word and below is a transcript of what is said. I've also attached links to some pictures I've taken.
Apologies for the plagiarism but I thought you guys may find it helpful.
SHARPENING YOUR KNIFE AT BASE CAMP!
At home and in camp we can keep knives sharp using bench stones like these:
These are Japanese water stones and the first job is to soak them in water.
They only need to soak for around 5 - 10 minutes just to saturate them.
We will use three different grits, the coarsest stone is 800, the medium is 1200 and the finest stone is 6000.
You can manage without this
but it i a very good idea to have one. It's a clamp to hold the stones with rubber feet so you can put it on a flat surface and the stone wouldn't slip around.
I'm starting here with the 800 stone, the coarsest one.
I'm making sure that I keep the stone wet. If it goes dry it'll stop working efficiently. http://www.bushcraftuk.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=1875&size=big&limit=recent
Place the knife flat on the stone and then tilt it until the bevel is flat against the stone.
Now try and slice across the stone keeping the bevel flat and I normally do this for about 8 strokes.
I've now done 8 strokes in one direction now I do 8 the other way. Lie the blade flat, tilt it until the edge bevel is flat. Now slice back towards you.
Having done 8 away from me and 8 towards me I do 8 alternating the direction. I do this to make sure I keep the edge true to the centre of the blade, keeping everything nice and even.
The thing I'm going to do now is give this area Pointing to the edge of the blade by the handle is give this area which is the closest to the handle some special attention as this is the part of the blade that we use for carving. Ray now proceeds to sharpen that part of the blade with 4 slices away from himself and 4 towards himself.
What I do now is repeat the whole process with the medium grit stone, the 1200.
When the edge is absolutely flat and there are no light spots reflecting from the edge you can move onto the next stone which is the finest grit.
The last stone is going to really polish the blade and give it a fine edge and a fine edge lasts longer than a coarse edge.
The way we use this stone is slightly different. You have to create a slurry on the surface. Most of these stones are supplied with a little stone which has a wonderful name. The nagura stone.
Ray rubs the little stone over the surface of the thin grit stone.
You use this to create a slurry on top of the stone. It is the slurry that is abrasive and actually polishes the blade. It may seem like a lot of effort but you don't do this very often and doing this is keeping your knife in absolutely the best condition, beautifully sharp, beautifully polished edge and it's very satisfying.
The black streak that appears on the stone is the metal coming off the blade.
Basically you use this stone in exactly the same way as the previous ones, 8 strokes in one direction, 8 in the other and then 8 in alternate directions.
The slurry on the stone can also be used to polish up the face of the blade.
Ray dips his fingers into the slurry and proceeds to rub it into the blade, whilst saying: Just keep your fingers away from the edge of the blade.
In theory if you've done the sharpening on the stones properly you can avoid the next stage but I always like to put it in just to make sure the knife is prefect.
What I'm going to do is strop the edge. What that does is remove any tiny, almost molecular thin pieces of metal which may be wobbling on the edge of the blade.
To do that you use the inside of a leather belt and I'm going to drag the knife so the edge is coming the other way so that it's not trying to cut the belt and I give it fifty strokes.
Ray now goes on to explain how he uses the edge of a window to finish the edge however, I will leave that out for now. I apologise for the length, whilst it seemed like a good idea at the time, it hasn't really worked out, but I hope it will be helpful.
Finally if you find that some info maybe missing please read British Reds excellent £5 sharpening kit thread as this will certainly help.
Regards.
P
Last week I posted that I was planning on sharpening my Frosts mora with waterstones that I'd got for Christmas and I'd asked for any hints or tips.
A couple of people posted that Ray had enclosed a Sharpening extra on one of his Bushcraft DVD's.
So with this in mind I dug out my DVD, I'm not big on the extras, and I searched the tutorial out.
Having found it I have literally hung on every word and below is a transcript of what is said. I've also attached links to some pictures I've taken.
Apologies for the plagiarism but I thought you guys may find it helpful.
SHARPENING YOUR KNIFE AT BASE CAMP!
At home and in camp we can keep knives sharp using bench stones like these:
These are Japanese water stones and the first job is to soak them in water.
They only need to soak for around 5 - 10 minutes just to saturate them.
We will use three different grits, the coarsest stone is 800, the medium is 1200 and the finest stone is 6000.
You can manage without this
I'm starting here with the 800 stone, the coarsest one.
I'm making sure that I keep the stone wet. If it goes dry it'll stop working efficiently. http://www.bushcraftuk.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=1875&size=big&limit=recent
Place the knife flat on the stone and then tilt it until the bevel is flat against the stone.
I've now done 8 strokes in one direction now I do 8 the other way. Lie the blade flat, tilt it until the edge bevel is flat. Now slice back towards you.
Having done 8 away from me and 8 towards me I do 8 alternating the direction. I do this to make sure I keep the edge true to the centre of the blade, keeping everything nice and even.
The thing I'm going to do now is give this area Pointing to the edge of the blade by the handle is give this area which is the closest to the handle some special attention as this is the part of the blade that we use for carving. Ray now proceeds to sharpen that part of the blade with 4 slices away from himself and 4 towards himself.
What I do now is repeat the whole process with the medium grit stone, the 1200.
When the edge is absolutely flat and there are no light spots reflecting from the edge you can move onto the next stone which is the finest grit.
The last stone is going to really polish the blade and give it a fine edge and a fine edge lasts longer than a coarse edge.
The way we use this stone is slightly different. You have to create a slurry on the surface. Most of these stones are supplied with a little stone which has a wonderful name. The nagura stone.
Ray rubs the little stone over the surface of the thin grit stone.
The black streak that appears on the stone is the metal coming off the blade.
Basically you use this stone in exactly the same way as the previous ones, 8 strokes in one direction, 8 in the other and then 8 in alternate directions.
The slurry on the stone can also be used to polish up the face of the blade.
Ray dips his fingers into the slurry and proceeds to rub it into the blade, whilst saying: Just keep your fingers away from the edge of the blade.
In theory if you've done the sharpening on the stones properly you can avoid the next stage but I always like to put it in just to make sure the knife is prefect.
What I'm going to do is strop the edge. What that does is remove any tiny, almost molecular thin pieces of metal which may be wobbling on the edge of the blade.
To do that you use the inside of a leather belt and I'm going to drag the knife so the edge is coming the other way so that it's not trying to cut the belt and I give it fifty strokes.
Ray now goes on to explain how he uses the edge of a window to finish the edge however, I will leave that out for now. I apologise for the length, whilst it seemed like a good idea at the time, it hasn't really worked out, but I hope it will be helpful.
Finally if you find that some info maybe missing please read British Reds excellent £5 sharpening kit thread as this will certainly help.
Regards.
P