Sharpening saws?

[fishy1]

How exactly do you do this?

I ask as I've recently been to a number of bothies where the cutting tools have been dreadful. I'm considering taking a file next time to sharpen up the axes, but as for the saws I don't know how.

Most are bow saws, cheap blades which I believe you can sharpen. At home I use better blades with harder teeth welded on which are not sharpenable I think.

So how is it done? Just file each side of each tooth individually? Is it a long job? Do you need to remove the blade and clamp it or can you just hold it?

And what about saws where the blade is one flat sheet of metal sharpened at the bottom? The name escapes me but I know they are used in joinery etc for cutting planks up when you want to cut fast but reasonably straight. Can they be sharpened?

 

[Draven]

If I recall correctly (not likely!)you have to file the teeth to points with a triangular file, and then "set" them - namely, tap them with a thingy to make them stick out the side Liike, how if you look down the edge of a decent woodsaw, the teeth are all squiggly? I think that needs to be done after every proper sharpen. Don't quote me though. My contribution is seeming less and less useful after every word Sorry I can't be clearer!

Peace!

 

[Tadpole]

If I recall correctly (not likely!)you have to file the teeth to points with a triangular file, and then "set" them - namely, tap them with a thingy to make them stick out the side Liike, how if you look down the edge of a decent woodsaw, the teeth are all squiggly? I think that needs to be done after every proper sharpen. Don't quote me though. My contribution is seeming less and less useful after every word Sorry I can't be clearer!

Peace!

to set the teeth you need a pair of saw tooth setting pliers.
for a frame saw, you'd need a triangle file (something like a five inch long second cut) it's hard work to get it right and if you don't get it right, a real job to correct

 

[Bernie Garland]

To Sharpen handsaws,you need a triangular saw file,saw set and a saw stool to hold the saw in place,you go up one way with saw file then turn the saw round and up the other way, then take the saw out and set the teeth the same way up one side the up the other,in my younger days if we were cutting roofs in, you might have to resharpen your saw at dinner, then before you went home for the next morning,
Am i glad they brought out the hardpoint disposable saws no more sharpening.
If you want to learn how to do it you'd be better of finding an old joiner to show you the ropes, as it takes a bit of practice to get all the teeth right,
If its for bow saws i wouldent bother just by new blades, as i think there all hardpoints now and can't be sharpened.

Bernie

 

[JURA]

Bowsaws, forget it. Cant sharpen them. But carrying a spare 21 or 23 Inch blade weighs next to nothing..

 

[Mesquite]

Most are bow saws, cheap blades which I believe you can sharpen.

Rather than spending loads of time sharpening them why not carry a couple spare blades with you?

They're not that heavy at all and they can be stored wound up in billy can. That way you can take a good blade to each bothy you visit and know you'll get a good cut every time. And if there isn't a bow saw at a bothy then make one from a piece of green hazel bent into shape as demonstrated by RM in various books and programes.

 

[weaver]

Anything that has been made can be sharpened.

Hardened teeth require a diamond grit file. Carbide teeth require a diamond blade with water cooling. A Dremel will do it with the proper bit.

A Tenon saw or a dovetail saw is no different than a common hand saw just smaller and finer teeth.

You need a saw vise to hold the saw steady, float or saw joiner to level the teeth, proper size file for the size teeth, saw set to bend the teeth a set amount, final sharpening file which is sometimes finer cut, and a flat stone to dress the teeth. Dressing the teeth is important and often left off, it removes the wire edge and levels the side of the teeth, should not be overdone.

A pruning saw/bow saw can be touched up in the field just as you might touch up a chain saw. If the teeth are hardened you need a diamond file. E-Z LAP make a small pocket diamond file that will work for touching up a bow saw and it cost less that $6 over here. One or two strokes on each tooth will bring the blade back to life. If it is badly dulled or bent throw it away.

 

[fishy1]

Rather than spending loads of time sharpening them why not carry a couple spare blades with you?

They're not that heavy at all and they can be stored wound up in billy can. That way you can take a good blade to each bothy you visit and know you'll get a good cut every time. And if there isn't a bow saw at a bothy then make one from a piece of green hazel bent into shape as demonstrated by RM in various books and programes.

The bow saws in bothies always seems to be pretty small things for which I don't have blades. And buying a new one is 5 or 6 quid, not really worth it for a few times a year.

Plus, if I sharpen it, the next few people at the bothy gain as well. I thought most were made with the hard teeth now, but every one I saw in the last few bothies I've been to was just one piece of steel.

Making a saw sounds like a good idea, but in the areas thier is very very rarely hazel, often just bogpine, sometimes pine and birch. Plus whipping up a saw takes a little while.

 

[demographic]

but every one I saw in the last few bothies I've been to was just one piece of steel.

Even the hardpoint saws are made from one piece of steel, they just have induction hardened teeth though.

For instructions on sharpening just about anything from saws through chisels, scissors, axes, plane bladesTHIS book is well worth a read.

 

[brancho]

As far as rhe axes are concerned I would carry a cheap plastic sharpener like the type available from Aldi and put a keen edge on the axe not a sharp one. Most people who use them will not expect a sharp axe. The saws probably need the teeth set rather than sharpened as poor usage of a bow saw will flatten the teeth if you do ensure the cut is kept open.

This is from experience of what my Scouts do to kit.

 

[fishy1]

As far as rhe axes are concerned I would carry a cheap plastic sharpener like the type available from Aldi and put a keen edge on the axe not a sharp one. Most people who use them will not expect a sharp axe. The saws probably need the teeth set rather than sharpened as poor usage of a bow saw will flatten the teeth if you do ensure the cut is kept open.

This is from experience of what my Scouts do to kit.

I was reckoning on just filing the axes so they have an edge. You can get them sharp enough to cut feather sticks just doing this. Waterstones and stuff I won't bother with, and the edge would be lost pretty soon anyways.