sharpening problems

[SOAR]

Hi. I am having problems sharpening my knife, well I can get it sharp, but not as sharp as I have got other knives. Its begining to become a bit of a problem when I am using the knife as I am sure it could be sharper. I sharpened my axe and it is a heck of a lot sharper than my knife. I have sharpened my other knives and they are to be handled with care, but my latest knife just does not get a really sharp edge. any help would be great thanks

 

[Tantalus]

Maybe its the steel , you didnt say anything about what knife or what steel it is

Tant

 

[SOAR]

its o1 steel and its a walker knife

 

[Rebel]

Might be helpful if we know what kind of edge it has and what you're using to sharpen it with and what technique you are using.

 

[SOAR]

Sorry its a scandi grind, and I am using japanese water stones 800 1200 6000

 

[C_Claycomb]

Sorry to hear you are having problems.

Are you sure that you have sharpened all the way to the very edge? I have had times when a knife just does not seem to want to get sharp, it kind of feels sharp, but not grabby or shaving. I have found that on a new blade it is possible for the grind to have left a microscopic flat right at the edge, so narrow it is almost impossible to see unless you have good light and look at it just right. On a Scandi you are taking metal off the whole of the bevel, so that last little bit can be a swine to grind down if the coarsest thing you use is 800 grit.

Try attacking it with 320, or even some 240grit wet and dry mounted on a hard board. Then go back to the finer stuff.

The only other thing is that it didn't get as hard as it was meant to, or was over tempered. I have had both of those happen to me as well but that is really dependent on how it was heat treated and tested prior to being finished.

I would think it more likely that it is the edge having a tiny flat, rather than it being the steel. At least, I have had problems with not having sharpened to the very edge more often than I have had real problems with steel and heat treat, both on my own and on purchased knives.

If you still have problems, best to take it up with the maker. I am sure he will appreciate the chance to make things right if you really can't get on with the knife.

 

[SOAR]

When I recieved the knife it was not sharp at all, and over time and a few goes at it it has got sharper, it might just need more work I mean its not shaving sharp but it can be used for feather sticks.I try my best to strop the blade between grades of stones and after, but this is done on my leather belt. I dont think the problem is with the steel it could be that i am just used to softer metal.

 

[C_Claycomb]

Softer metal does give a false impression of sharpening speed. The harder stuff certainly takes longer. I wouldn't bother with stropping between grits though, I can't actually think that it would be of any benefit in the end and just takes time.

 

[SOAR]

Yeh I have a Helle Futura and its like a razor and sharpens very well, but this one is taking its time, so you think that I should leave the strop?

 

[British Red]

Yep!

Stropping is a finishing action and, if you don't use the right action, actually blunts the knife. On a scandy you are better off glueing a piece of leaher to a board. There was another thread about this recently where someone managed to blunt the cutting edge with a strop.

My suggestion is to go to B&Q! Right now they have a four sided diamond bench stone - 200, 300, 400 and 600 grit plus a bench stand for £8.99. I bought one on a whim and used it a couple of times and it actually very good. I dinged my blade recently and easily took the ding out on the diamonds in - 20 minutes. An hour on the waterstones and a glued leather block with buffing compound and it was good as new and would cut a piece of A4 along the long length by blade weight alone

Red

 

[Andy]

cut a piece of A4 along the long length by blade weight

If yuo cut the paper in mid air you get a better impression of the edge been even all along. wire edges or mini serrations left from uneven shapening will snag a lot more.

 

[Shing]

Perhaps you can send it back to the maker, a lot of them will sharpen one of their knives for a fee.

 

[SOAR]

Yeh i dont really want to send it back just yet, i feel that i am going to get it right sooner or later. also i dont want to give in as i am learning, and kinda enjoying it at the moment. if it really gets my back up i might have to send it back.
Yep!

Stropping is a finishing action and, if you don't use the right action, actually blunts the knife. On a scandy you are better off glueing a piece of leaher to a board. There was another thread about this recently where someone managed to blunt the cutting edge with a strop.
So you think that i could be blunting my knife?. Also you mentioned stroping compound is it that essential or can you get away without using it?

 

[British Red]

Soar,

Without using something on the leather I suspect you can do more harm than good. A decent size block of pink / green stropping compound costs about £3 and lasts a lifetime.

My technique is like this

Glue a piece of leather to a completely flat board (a bit of chipboard or mdf works well). Load well with buffing compound

Push the bevel onto the board with the middle three fingers of your left hand holding the handle in your right hand, spine facing away. Your right hand moves the knife, left holds it flat.

Now my way for the other bevel is not to "roll over" which gives problems but change hands (left hand on the handle, right fingers on the bevel - spine still facing away). Push the knife away from you holding the bevel flat and true. A thin leather works better than thick as thick acts like a mouse mat and encourages convexing.

Red

 

[SOAR]

All i have been doing is using a leather belt that i use for my chainsaw pants and putting it round a door handle. then strop the knife on the bevel away and towards myself about 50 times it has worked on other knives but this one is a lot more difficult

 

[British Red]

I've done ald illustrated that technique. Its better than nothing. The belt needs to be bar taught though - the board and compound technique is at least 20 times more effective

Red

 

[SOAR]

Thanks Red I will get some green compound and some leather and give this a go. Just been sharpening the blade again and it goes through paper now, getting there I think.

 

[British Red]

SOAR,

If you can't get it right and if it would help, feel free to post it to me and I'll give it a go (no charge). At least that way we'll know if its the knife or not. Its always nicer to get it there yourself of course.

I'm about to be laid up after an op so I may well delibeartely "mank up" a cheap blade and do a photo thread on sharpening using water stones and leather strops. Might even put a dink in it and show how to work up a damaged blade (wish I took some pictures when I damaged my own this week)

Red

 

[C_Claycomb]

There is green compound and green compound I have had much better results with things like the Tormek honing paste, Flitz, Autosol, Turtle Wax cutting compound and the blue soap sold for StarkieSharp strops.

The board and paste is the way to go

 

[British Red]

I must confess I use pink /green and then autosol for a final polish. I think the autosol step after the buffing compound is mostly cosmetic though - it just gives a final polish to the bevel. Working out a significant dink is a long job for me though - I'd say two hours and a lot of sweat (literally). I'm sure there are people who are faster / better at it than that.

Red