I'm thinking of getting one. Standard bushcrafty uses, sewing canvas and such. I don't want to pay the earth because it's not going to get a huge amount of use, but I don't want to waste my money on a cheapie that isn't up to the job. Any help or advice would be great.
sewing machine recommendations
- Thread starter Snufkin
- Start date
-
Hey Guest, Early bird pricing on the Summer Moot (29th July - 10th August) available until April 6th, we'd love you to come. PLEASE CLICK HERE to early bird price and get more information.
I totally agree. Using a electric one (not a cheap thing) I went through three needles sewing my tarp on the thick bits. The singer went without a problem. great bit of kit to have and you can always pick them up at the carboot nice and cheap in working condition.
If you can get both a hand cranker and a very early electric (I have 2 and would not part with either) from charity shops/boot fairs then you will have the best of all worlds!
Get them serviced and they should last forever.
It is my super duper modern ones that are always breaking down!
Get them serviced and they should last forever.
It is my super duper modern ones that are always breaking down!
Like a dream - if it is sewing at all
Dammit there's one on ebay for not much and it's near me and I'm skint.
you were supposed to say:
"noooo they're rubbish, you don't need one"
Sorry - OK - here goes.... "nah they is RUBBISH avoid them - they make you ill as well and can explode under moderate stress and ruin your street cred" ....better?
Eric_Methven
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
I'd go with an old Singer, hand cranked. There's a guy I know makes full size canvas tipis using nothing else. His setup is outside with no access to power.
Remember to select the correct needle for the job though. For sewing leather, get a leather needle and for sewing canvas get a denim (or jeans) needle. Also watch what thread you use. The real heavy threads may not pick up correctly from the shuttle and you'll either get skipping (missing threads) or bunching (where it looks OK on top, but like a bird's nest on the other side). I find the best thread for sewing canvas and thin leather is bonded polyester thread. Very strong for it's narrow diameter.
Eric
Remember to select the correct needle for the job though. For sewing leather, get a leather needle and for sewing canvas get a denim (or jeans) needle. Also watch what thread you use. The real heavy threads may not pick up correctly from the shuttle and you'll either get skipping (missing threads) or bunching (where it looks OK on top, but like a bird's nest on the other side). I find the best thread for sewing canvas and thin leather is bonded polyester thread. Very strong for it's narrow diameter.
Eric
I've just acquired an old hand cranked machine - where would I get the leather, denim needles and bonded polyester from? Have you a link?
Could I bore you all to ask some more details on the hand cranked machines. When sewing leather do the needle holes need to made before hand or are you able to make the holes with the machine(using a leather needle)? Do the hand-cranked ones have the advancing foot that the electrical ones have? Finally I've looked at a few on ebay the older ones look to be very well decorated as was the fashion of the day, is this too old? Or are the single colour brown/biege ones more what I'm after? Thanks in advance for the advice.
Eric_Methven
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
You are looking at thin upholsty grade leather (machines won't sew through thicker veg tan - unless you get a specialist machine). Denim needles can be found in most any haberdashery shop and the best place I found for large spools of bonded polyester thread is either shops that sell sewing machines, or places that do sewing repairs and adjustments. Even if the latter won't sell you any of their thread, they may well tell you where you can buy some. The place I went to (in Chester-le-Street) sold me a half used spool then ordered some for me with their next batch. They are not very expensive and a spool will last for ages (they are the big spools that you see being used on industrial sewing machines (like in the knicker factory in Corry)). If you end up using a big spool with an ordinary machine, the spool carrier spike may not be big enough. I solved the problem by placing the spool behind the machine (on the table) and rigging up a wire coathanger with a loop bent in to the top and threading the thread up from the back and through the loop.
Last edited:
If you're looking for a sewing machine that you aren't going to be using very much but is still a good machine, then you can get some good and cheap machines from Toyota (http://www.home-sewing.com/). They have all different kinds of machine depending on what you are going to be using it to sew, I think it's worth checking it out
I hope this helps you, good luck! and sorry if I'm a bit late to reply and you've already got one,
Sally
I hope this helps you, good luck! and sorry if I'm a bit late to reply and you've already got one,
Sally
Starter machine I can't recommend enough is the Singer 237 Early or Late style. ALL METAL GEARS! It can be fitted to a treadle table, or even upmotored. I'm seriously considering fitting it with a NEMA 23 or bigger Servo motor so I can fit a circuit to always stop upneedle or down needle based on a switch and also have a dead slow creep with maximum torque.
I'm going to upmotor my industrial Juki 5550 with a 3/4hp consew servo drive next big job we get with it.
When I met my wife, she had a Brother of mid 80's vintage. I brought in my 3 Singer's zig zags, and a Babylock serger. Since then we have acquired several vintage Singers, Necki's, and a Juki 5550 and a Juki MO-2516 serger (both industrial). I much prefer the Type 15 Bobins (The latch in kind) -- the drop in Type-66's tend to catch the thread and muck everything up.
I have just picked up a packet of 150/23 DBx1 needles and needle plate for the Juki industrial straight stitch to finish a scabbard I was making for As You Like It -- 3 layers of 2.5mm heavy leather. I kept breaking the 100/16 and 110/18 needles I had.
My early vintage Singer 237 I use with up to 130/21 needles and 24 layers of 4oz duck. Flat fell seam joints!! It will also run well off my inverter when we are on set or off caravanning. We have made our own tent out of 60" 4oz duck and this sping I had to replace the top and added square cut dags bound with 4oz duck instead of linen bias tape. Top is an 8' market umbrella. Sides are what I cut out and sewed up on my 237.
Robi
I'm going to upmotor my industrial Juki 5550 with a 3/4hp consew servo drive next big job we get with it.
When I met my wife, she had a Brother of mid 80's vintage. I brought in my 3 Singer's zig zags, and a Babylock serger. Since then we have acquired several vintage Singers, Necki's, and a Juki 5550 and a Juki MO-2516 serger (both industrial). I much prefer the Type 15 Bobins (The latch in kind) -- the drop in Type-66's tend to catch the thread and muck everything up.
I have just picked up a packet of 150/23 DBx1 needles and needle plate for the Juki industrial straight stitch to finish a scabbard I was making for As You Like It -- 3 layers of 2.5mm heavy leather. I kept breaking the 100/16 and 110/18 needles I had.
My early vintage Singer 237 I use with up to 130/21 needles and 24 layers of 4oz duck. Flat fell seam joints!! It will also run well off my inverter when we are on set or off caravanning. We have made our own tent out of 60" 4oz duck and this sping I had to replace the top and added square cut dags bound with 4oz duck instead of linen bias tape. Top is an 8' market umbrella. Sides are what I cut out and sewed up on my 237.
Robi
