Setting up The Green Mans Axe

[British Red]

Well, sme may have seen in the "Budget Axe" axe thread that The Green Man recently purchased an axe that wasn't ready to go "out of the box". Actually the bevels are not what Paul had any right to expect

Here's some of Paul's post on the matter

I’m surprised to hear that the bevels are do-able, Red, I thought they would be beyond sorting, but I’m glad to hear that none-the-less, thanks.

When I took the sheath off it for the first time, I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry. I honestly thought I’d had some sort of practical joke played on me.

I’ve never replaced a handle so I’m a bit anxious about doing it. About a year and a half ago, I bought one of those Swedish army surplus axes by Sater Banko with the short handle. Beautiful head, lousy handle on mine, I’d thought that that one would be my first re-handling job, though I’d put a full length handle on it to make it a proper full size felling axe. It would be worth the effort (and worry) to try and re-handle the Sater as the steel of the head is superb.

I thought I’d not bother with this one and just keep it as a curio, but now that you say that the head is salvageable, it might be the one to have a go at putting a new handle on first, as a learning experience.

I’m fairly confident that the retailer is right to assure me that it’s genuine stock from the manufacturer. On the retailer’s Web site it was described as a Forest Axe, and the only Forest Axe illustrated on the manufacturer's site is described as a ‘hand forged’ one, so I thought I’d take a chance and order it fom the retailer. Maybe it just slipped through the manufacturer’s quality control, maybe it never had its stamp on the head through error…dunno?

The pics are not great, I’ve only just got my first digital camera and I haven’t got my head round all the focus and colour settings etc:

Well, the axe is in my hands now and - with some work, there will be a good head there. The bevels are dire and there will be a couple of indentations left when I've finished since I don't want to take too much metal. Its a nice head though - it just needs some work.

Hers are some close ups

The handle is another matter. Squint down the handle and tell me what you think of the alignment

To me that alignment is well out (blade at an angle between 12 and 1 o'clock to the helve looking this way). Its more apparent but harder to photograph from the blade end.

A case for Paul learning to hang an axe me thinks

Anyway, Paul though people might like to see the head before and after (and even during) re-profiling so we'll show a few pictures here

Red

 

[weaver]

Is that a Wetterlings axe?

I just can't believe they would let that out of the factory. They whole town must have been drunk!

 

[Earlyturtle]

Yeah I really can't believe that either, the bevels make the head look like a Picasso picture.

 

[British Red]

I have seen a few like that recently - quality control has gone to hell. Its not big job to fixthe bevels though - just a few hours of filing and so forth

Red

 

[Aaron]

I suppose it depends on what he wants to use it for - if it was just bought for splitting arguably redressing the bevel and sharpening it is waste of time and counterproductive. I have a couple of Wetterlings axes I bought about four years ago and cant remember the quality being as bad then obviously things have gone downhill - both have lasted well so I cant justify replacing them with Gransfors axes!

 

[weaver]

I don't think improving an ax is counterproductive ever. Every bit of time spent on the edge will be saved in the work it will do.

I bought a small forest ax (? not sure now of the model name, it was the smallest one they made then) from Wetterlings a couple years ago and while it was not up to GB standards, I was very happy with the quality for the price. Since i am using it to carve more than anything else I spent around 30 minutes on the belt sander getting it perfectly shaped and completely smoothed up to 400 grit and then another 15 minutes on the buffing wheel polishing every surface. That really makes a big difference in the way it carves.

 

[Aaron]

As I say, not if it is intended for splitting. I have a fairly hefty American felling axe with a 5lb head that I have used to split logs for years - dont seem to remember ever sharpening it as all it requires is a robust edge, it doesnt need to be sharp as the weight of the head does the work. If I was to sharpen it it would probably need redressing with a grinderette as the edge is full of dinks from nails, stones etc.

 

[weaver]

I use a 15 pound splitting maul. It got pretty dinged up too. On a lark I took it to my belt sander and smoothed the edge and polished the sides. It literally flies through the wood that before was a bit difficult to split. Sharpening DOES make a big difference. It will now split a 10 inch piece of knotty locust in one easy swing where before it would sometimes split it and sometimes only imbed itself into the wood.

 

[British Red]

It would be a pretty odd choice for splitting aaron - its a forest axe - Forest axes are what we in the UK term limbing axes - light head on ling helve with an ultra narrow profile. It's a cutting axe in every way - its probably the last axe I would chhose for splitting.

In any event I can't in any way see how having an even bevel would be counterproductive to splitting - indeed as Weaver say maintaing an even smooth bevel increases penetration be it with grain (splitting) or cross grain (cutting). On my maul I keep the edge neat.Its not sharp as such - but thats a function of the grind rather than the edge.

Anyway - back to the filing!

Red

 

[eraaij]

Quality control from both Gransfors and Wetterlings varies. I have seen a lot of Gransfors axes that went out with misaligned heads, the wrong grain or off balanced heads.

Be aware that 'the perfect textbook axe' has everything as described above correct. But truth is that most of us are pretty well off with an axe that has a small flaw one or another. My favorite small axe is an Gransfors SFA that has a slightly misaligned head. I noticed that misalignment and off balance after looking for it. In a year of use it obviously never bothered me. It cuts like a deamon and remains nicely sharp.

The same goes for a lot or most handmade knives. If you look long and hard enough - you will find something to nag about. A slight HT warp, a not-perfect shaped handle, a slight offgrind. THe question is - is the flaw in the way when you are using the tool? If not, just use the heck out of it and hone your skills.

-Emile

 

[British Red]

Well, I had a chance to make a start on this today for Paul.

If you have never tried to re-profile an axe by hand, theres only one tool to do it. The swear filter will get this, but honestly its real name is a b@stard file. Also known as a crosscut, mill file or first cut file. Its massively aggressive and removes a lot of metal (comparatively). But you will never get there with anything less. The main job here is to smooth out all the ridges and go for a nice curve

I've half finished this bevel now

Theres one deeper dent in the middle I will leave as I would have to rmove too much metal (the black area)


The other side is now as even as I can get it with a mill file

More when I find more time


Red

 

[Shinken]

Its also worth noting that the longer the file the coarser it will be, ie a 10" b-a-s-t-a-r-d file will be finer than a 16" b-a-s-t-a-r-d file

 

[Aaron]

It would be a pretty odd choice for splitting aaron - its a forest axe - Forest axes are what we in the UK term limbing axes - light head on ling helve with an ultra narrow profile. It's a cutting axe in every way - its probably the last axe I would chhose for splitting.

In any event I can't in any way see how having an even bevel would be counterproductive to splitting - indeed as Weaver say maintaing an even smooth bevel increases penetration be it with grain (splitting) or cross grain (cutting). On my maul I keep the edge neat.Its not sharp as such - but thats a function of the grind rather than the edge.

Anyway - back to the filing!

Red

Fair enough then Hugh - far be it from me to argue with people who are obviously more experienced in these matters than I am. In future I will refrain from venturing my incorrect opinions and stick to making a living from, amongst other things, splitting logs.

Cheers, Aaron

 

[British Red]

Aaron - argue away - I just don't have to agree with you When I split logs I find an improvement with a sharp axe or maul. It doesn't have to be anal but I like my tools taken care of. I had the same debate recently with someone who couldn't believe I sharpen a spade. He thought I had invented such a practice until his grandad told him everyone of his generation did it . Same principle I guess - cutting through heavy clay is easier with an edge the same as parting wood (I wonder if anyone else still sharpens a spade ). Easy way to settle it of course - we'll ask GM if it performs any better when he gets it back.

Anyway - for GM - this is how the bevels look now

Red

 

[TheGreenMan]

Awesome efforts on my behalf, Red, thank you. Truly fascinating to watch the progress.

And yes, I think that a spade would greatly benefit from a filed edge, particularly in heavy clay soil.

Cheers,
Paul ('GM' - although I'm not claiming to be genetically modified )

 

[JohnC]

I have a file and a stone in the allotment shed for sharpening the spade and sickle, it makes a difference

 

[British Red]

Aaah its not just me then John . I do hope you have a kettle, stove and proper mug for your tea down there too?

Anywhooo

The re-profile is about there Paul,

I started tidying the helve a bit for you in case you decide to keep it too

Can you let me know how you want it sharpened? If its for general Bushcraft I tend to leave it short of razor sharp as the edge gets a bit fragile. If you are only going to use it for limbing, I'll make it pretty sharp - up to you really

Red

 

[TheGreenMan]

...Can you let me know how you want it sharpened?...

Looking good! And thanks for smartening-up the handle, this one is definitely a keeper, maestro. I couldn’t part with this one after all the work that’s gone into it on my behalf.

In respect to the fine adjustment of the cutting edge, firstly I should say that I don’t consider myself a bushcrafter (when I first started studying the subject I thought I knew what it was, but the more I’ve studied it, the more vague the term has become in my mind. Apologies if that sounds a little too ‘Zen’), but my hunter’s axe and my hatchet have rather thick convexes which I consider to be more suited to splitting, but that that said, they do seem to chop well.

I bought the Forest Axe with the idea that it would be a more efficient chopper than the two previously mentioned, a sort of ‘halfway house’ between a hatchet and a full sized felling axe. Something that had the capacity for cutting a great deal of firewood if needed and would make shorter work of felling than a very light axe (because of the slightly heavier head and increased momentum that the longer handle would give it), in the unlikely event that that should that ever be necessary, but which could still be carried in/on a rucksack.

So in short, I’d like something like a felling edge on it, but as you mention, not too fragile either, so I recon that what ever you consider a good limbing edge to be, would be just about the right compromise for a city-dwelling, frustrated woodsman.

Something with a bit of bite would be nice!

Thanks,
Paul.

 

[British Red]

Okay Paul,

I'll take the edge back a little bit from where it is now (always easier to thin than add). Clearly the sharper I make it, the more fragile the edge becomes, so I'll stop short of "carving axe" sharp since that gets quite "chippable"

When I said "in case you keep it" I meant the helve really. You'll need to try it. If you find the axe turning in your hand on impace, replace it with a properly aligned one straight away.

Red

 

[TheGreenMan]

...(always easier to thin than add)...

Ain’t that the truth!

...so I'll stop short of "carving axe" sharp since that gets quite "chippable"...

Interesting axe fact, maestro.

...If you find the axe turning in your hand on impace, replace it with a properly aligned one straight away...

Well, replacing a handle may be the next project challenge for me, Red

Thanks for this,
Paul.