Secondary Bevel

[TheViking]

Hi...

My new knife for bushcraft arrived today!! ): ): Karesuando 'Ørnen'. Beautiful. Sheath fits perfect and knife is wonderful... :biggthump

But my question is: there's a secondary bevel on it and I would like to remove it into 1 bevel only.... Can I just sharpen it down with my fieldstone??

How do I do this???? :?: I'm not gonna' use it until that bevel is gone!! And can't wait to get out and try it....

 

[eraaij]

I would convex it by stropping on a piece of 500 grit dry/wet sanding paper. Glue the paper to a piece of cardboard and you are ready to go. This will remove the shoulder of the secondary bevel, improve cutting and give a solid edge. Finish by stropping on something finer, like the same sandpaper saturated with polishing compound. Works for me.

-Emile

 

[Ed]

I'm not gonna' use it until that bevel is gone!!

I may sound a bit heathen.... but why not use it with the secondary bevel?
These people have been making knives for some time and have put it there for a reason. Try it out, you may like it, if you don't then change it....


Ed

 

[TheViking]

OK, Ed

I'll try it out, but what is the advantages of such a bevel? Isn't it much stronger with a clean, single bevel? :?:
I find it difficult to sharpen, just like the SAK, which also has a tiny bevel.

 

[Ed]

Actually having the secondary bevel makes the edge a little stronger..... I prefer a secondary bevel for food and game prep, it seems to give a little more friction/control when skinning. The single bevel is better for carving and woodwork, and wood being the main bushcrafters resource makes it very popular here.
There is no right or wrong bevel... just the one that suits you.
I know there are a few members here (gary for one i think) that keep there knife with a single bevel for woodwork then put a micro secondary bevel on when doing game prep, and take it off when finished.


Ed

 

[Hoodoo]

I don't think there is anything wrong with having a small secondary bevel on a scandi-ground field knife. If you get rid of it or convex it, it will improve your ability to carve hard, seasoned wood, but for most other things the noticeable difference is usually small. It just depends on how you plan to use your knife. If you are carving a lot of green wood, the Karesuando's are just fine with the standard secondary bevel, imo. And the fact is, if you want the wood to curl on your fuzz sticks, a small secondary bevel actually improves your knife's ability to do it. I've carved enough rooster tails from twigs to appreciate that fact (check out Chris Lubkemann's "Carving Twigs and Branches"). If you are doing a lot of scraping, the secondary bevel ain't a bad idea either. Mears even puts a tiny secondary bevel on his knife when he does that final pass on crocksticks. So imo, a SMALL secondary bevel ain't all bad for the field. But if you plan on doing a lot of woodcarving using seasoned wood, you are better off with the full scandi or at least convex the edge.

 

[TheViking]

Hi...

OK. But if I later on want a single bevel, can I just sharpen it away then? Got a cheap fine/coarse fieldstone...

Thanks so far for the help all! :biggthump

 

[familne]

I would get yourself a couple of decent waterstones or a combination stone if you want to grind the bevel down!

 

[Hoodoo]

Any flat stone or wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface will work to get ya a good true scandi grind. I've found sandpaper to be faster than anything, especially if you keep the paper fresh.

 

[Ed]

Just remember to do the same number of strokes on each side to keep it even.... I'm a big fan of the sandpaper/wet an dry method....


Ed

 

[Leon]

Hi Viking,
I hope this might be helpful to you:
http://www.bushcraftuk.net/community/showthread.php?t=2432
I posted it a little bit late on your original thread and it looks like you might not have caught it.

 

[Martyn]

Actually having the secondary bevel makes the edge a little stronger..... I prefer a secondary bevel for food and game prep, it seems to give a little more friction/control when skinning. The single bevel is better for carving and woodwork, and wood being the main bushcrafters resource makes it very popular here.
There is no right or wrong bevel... just the one that suits you.

Couldn't agree more.

The secondary bevel gives the knife a "fatter" edge and therefore is a bit stronger, a bit more resiliant to chipping and rolling etc. The single, flat bevel gives a thinner edge, but with a good stropping, gives a phenominal level of sharpness that is just sweet for carving and woodwork.

 

[TheViking]

Hi...

Wauw... Just noticed that the BIG pommel on the handle can be used as cracker for nuts, mussels etc. :biggthump as long as i'm not hitting too hard!

 

[The General]

For clarity, are we talking about a chisel ground edge?

 

[Stuart]

no its a scandi grind

single bevel on both sides of the blade, or in this case a double bevel on both sides of the blade