Rivets
- Thread starter Dougster
- Start date
Richeadon,
With a material as soft as copper or brass, you are unlikely to find actual rivets of those dimensions. You'll probably find that you just need to countersink the material that the rivet is going through and cut sufficient length of plain rivet stock to deform into both countersinks.
HTH
Ogri the trog
With a material as soft as copper or brass, you are unlikely to find actual rivets of those dimensions. You'll probably find that you just need to countersink the material that the rivet is going through and cut sufficient length of plain rivet stock to deform into both countersinks.
HTH
Ogri the trog
I'm not sure if these would be a suitable alternative for your needs, but I asked my local cobbler if he could order me a bag of 2-piece brass rivets (approx 20-30mm long); the flat headed sort which cobblers use for rivetting leather shoes together. It was not particularly cheap (c.£12) but he was happy enough to do it for me and I use them for my own leather making projects (pouches, sheaths etc).
As BigSteve, I get this kind of stuff from cobblers supplies. Colledges in London does mail order - I don't have their details here but if you get no joy during the day today I'll try and dig out the contacts for you tonight.
What do you need them for?
ODG
What do you need them for?
ODG
If ESpy's are any good then you can probably get them from The Identity Store in Northampton or mail order - they do most of the Tandy leather stuff.
That's where I bought mine. Very heavy duty - although I don't use them much if I can sew it instead.
You'll also need a set - DIY or otherwise. This slips over the shaft of the rivet to punch the burr (the washer bit) down onto the rivet; cut the shaft to length then peen it down. The commercial set has a handy hemispherical dent in the end to forn the shaft - although it helps if you bevel the corners that you'll leave when it is cut to length.
If I've got the wrong end of the stick and you're really trying to rivet solid materials together, then go with Ogri's comments - use a small cross pein hammer to spread the rivet material in all directions, then either shape or file flat the head (the latter assuming you countersunk!).
Tube rivets can be made with a couple of small ball pein hammers if you're careful - http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/other-hinge.htm has some good instructions about 1/3 of the way down.
You'll also need a set - DIY or otherwise. This slips over the shaft of the rivet to punch the burr (the washer bit) down onto the rivet; cut the shaft to length then peen it down. The commercial set has a handy hemispherical dent in the end to forn the shaft - although it helps if you bevel the corners that you'll leave when it is cut to length.
If I've got the wrong end of the stick and you're really trying to rivet solid materials together, then go with Ogri's comments - use a small cross pein hammer to spread the rivet material in all directions, then either shape or file flat the head (the latter assuming you countersunk!).
Tube rivets can be made with a couple of small ball pein hammers if you're careful - http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/other-hinge.htm has some good instructions about 1/3 of the way down.
I will come at this from another angle and sugest boat rivets or in their terminology copper ROVES. These are square copper nails with copper washers(roves)fitted and peined over to form a clenched joint. They come in small medium or large and sizes in between also in all sorts of lengths(they work opposite to screw sizing). A ball pein hammer, a pair of h.d hand snips, a small anvil (4"x2"x6" lump of steel) and a piece of 4"x1/2''dia s/s or brass rod drilled with an 'ole 1/16 oversize is what you will need. I use them in all sorts of applications and separately too as just nails or penny ha-penny or farthing washers. They are sold by weight. The saying goes that if you have clenched the rove properly a silk hankie will not snag if you let it brush by your work! They are also fun to work as copper is a lovely medium to use.
My supplier will be able to furnish you with all sorts of things related also including bronze fixings(screws etc) too (beautiful and long lasting).
I HAVE NO ASSOCIATION WITH THE SUPPLIER OTHER THAN A BUSINESS RELATIONSHIP.
Please PM me if you are interested and I will happily pass on their 'phone no.
My supplier will be able to furnish you with all sorts of things related also including bronze fixings(screws etc) too (beautiful and long lasting).
I HAVE NO ASSOCIATION WITH THE SUPPLIER OTHER THAN A BUSINESS RELATIONSHIP.
Please PM me if you are interested and I will happily pass on their 'phone no.
I saw this thread and immediately thought of recommending the saddlers copper rivets from the Identity Store. If they are not big enough for your purpose, then why not make your own? If you are capable of rivetting properly you should be able to make a rivet yourself rom a length of suitable stock material such as copper rod. James tells of me getting some similar stuff recently. What I got was some 5mm diameter copper rod for making points on flint knapping pressure flakers, but it would do well as rivet making material. I got mine from http://www.mallardmetals.co.uk/ I have dealt with him in the past and have never had a problem in any way with goods or service. (No affiliation etc etc blah blah)
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