Retired SAK Fieldmaster, First Kuksa

Paracordist

Forager
Mar 30, 2011
212
1
NH, USA
www.paracordist.com
Retired SAK Fieldmaster, First Kuksa

I've had a number of fun outdoor / bushcraft related projects going on lately, from the restoration of old American Made (Collins and Coucil Tool), to the building of my own oak foldable buck saw (with paracord tension string), the creation of several knife sharpening paddles for my 220, 400, 600, 1200 and 2000 grid wet/dry sandpapers and leather strops, and the restoration of an old knife of my Grandfather's that I received when I was a boy. Each one of those topics should be several detailed posts of their own (and some are), but I'm short for writing time and wanted to post some things before I'm overwhelmed! I've grown frustrated with the lack of edge holding ability of my swiss army "fieldmaster" under repeated use on these recent projects, so I decided to dig through my keepsake knives looking for a new carbon steel user. I enjoy sharpening just as much as the next guy but don't like seeing a hair-popping sharp blade lose that edge after a few minutes whittling! I settled on a knife that I thought was a Barlow based on the handle shape, but soon learned was an old electrician's knife (probably Camillus) which my grandfather had modified (grinding the screwdriver into a utility blade).
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I cleaned it up, sanded and sharpened the blades, oiled it up and removed some rust, linseed oil for the rosewood handle.
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Within days of carrying it, I was able to give it a true test.

This week I've had the opportunity to put the buck saw and Gransfors Bruks Wildlife hatchet (that I had recently acquired) to hard use pruning several overgown maple trees on my property. The canopies on these trees had expanded so far that my lawn was turning to dirt underneath. In an effort to get some sun back on the ground I cut a large number of low branches with diameter's up to around 6". I used the Gransfors to limb and buck baw to section the bigger pieces. Both cut through the hardwood like butter.
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Recognizing the bounty of fresh green maple I know had on hand, I decided to grab a few select pieces to pursue another project on my list - making my first kuksa (wooden cup). I've wanted to do this for some time, and figured it would be a great campfire project to whittle away at in the coming weeks. I stripped the bark off the branch I selected. Orienting the wood for what I thought was the best use of its natural shape (particularly for the future handle), I sketched some centerlines and cup shape using a sharpie. For some sort of size reference, I grabbed a measuring cup from the kitchen. My buddy pursuaded me to maximize the size so that maybe this cup could double as my beer "chalice" (hense the elongated oval shap right now)! The following photos show the initial rough out using the Gransfors, followed by a "re-draw" and refine shape (profile/side view), and finally the current status after some whittling and top/plan view sketching for the next refinement.
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I've done a substantial amount of the latest rough work with the "new" pocket knife's main blade. The blade is hair popping sharp but still requires firm effort to work the maple. This is dense, tough wood, even though its green! What pleases me beyond words is that after each session so far (probably two hours total use) the blade has passed the shave test. I lapped the strop a couple times with it and it seems literally like I just sharpened it fresh. Goodbye SAK, goodbye stainless, I'm a carbon devotee for life! Maybe an opinel will be my next purchase.



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Paracordist

Forager
Mar 30, 2011
212
1
NH, USA
www.paracordist.com
I see a crack and I have no idea how it formed (shock of hatchet work?). I'm a little concerned about it, not having worked much with wood. I'm afraid to go too far and have it crack on me. I've cut it back hoping to get to crack-less wood. We'll see how this played out.
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Paracordist

Forager
Mar 30, 2011
212
1
NH, USA
www.paracordist.com
I've been told the crack could be from drying too quickly. Is it too late to soak my piece or some other approach to slow drying? Here is a better shot of crack (above red line)
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Two Socks

Settler
Jan 27, 2011
750
0
Norway
Lovely tools there!

One problem with the kuksa is that the pith of the wood is still in there. That will inevitably cause it to split down the middle, as it is beginning to do. This is not the cause of the split indicated with the red line though. That may be a pressure crack from the axe carving, or just bad luck in the wood selection. To carve a kuksa you need a relatively knot-free piece of wood that is split down the middle and a couple of the inner growth rings removed to reduce chance of cracking. Even then it has to dry very slowly in a bag of shavings to be on the safer side. I am afraid that this piece of wood is cracked badly already, and that it would be a lot of work "wasted" if you decide to finish it.

That being said, I do like the shape you were going for! Grab another piece of wood and pursue it. The curve is lovely.

(And edit to say: Opinels are great pocket knives, but with this restored beauty at hand I doubt you`ll feel the need for one!)
 
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Paracordist

Forager
Mar 30, 2011
212
1
NH, USA
www.paracordist.com
Lovely tools there!

One problem with the kuksa is that the pith of the wood is still in there... I am afraid that this piece of wood is cracked badly already, and that it would be a lot of work "wasted" if you decide to finish.

Thanks for advice. I'm going to start looking for another piece. I've learned my first carving lesson! Someone suggested this approach (see sketch) which will require that I find a min. 8" diameter
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Two Socks

Settler
Jan 27, 2011
750
0
Norway
That approach is a fine one. I would turn the cup around in the wood, having the hollow face the middle. That way nature has already made half the curve for you and you can get away with slightly smaller branches.
 

Paracordist

Forager
Mar 30, 2011
212
1
NH, USA
www.paracordist.com
That approach is a fine one. I would turn the cup around in the wood, having the hollow face the middle. That way nature has already made half the curve for you and you can get away with slightly smaller branches.

That's what I thought too but I was advised as follows I'm not sure why: "this may sound silly but after you have split a log in half lay one half with its split side to the ground, make your kuksa from the wood this way up, try it..."

Any idea?


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Two Socks

Settler
Jan 27, 2011
750
0
Norway
No idea. I have made quite a few the other side up and they are fine. I don`t know what the reasoning behind this technique is. I reckon it will be more difficult to carve the inner growth rings away and still get a reasonably sized cup out of the wood in that way. Would be interesting to know the thought behind the advice!
 

Paracordist

Forager
Mar 30, 2011
212
1
NH, USA
www.paracordist.com
...Would be interesting to know the thought behind the advice!

Here is the detailed reply I got:

"...yeah you could turn the bowl, but then you have the shrinkage factor to think about, if you carve the bowl like in pic with red dots the left and right side are going to want to pull in a downwards and outwards from the middle if you carve the main bowl to the required finished thickness all the way around in one go you will get some warping but if you dry it slow enough it should not split or crack.

basically they way the red dots are set out would leave you with two sides of the bowl having heart wood on either side, this does dry out slower than sap wood to some extent when carved because most heart wood is denser than the sap wood outer coat, due to the way the log splits in half normally round, circular shape then split leaving a semi circle shape the heart wood dries slower and the sap wood faster causing the split log to want to convex on its flat side, normally causing a split to appear, down the length of the log, normally starting at an end and running down the center to the other end, meaning your two sides of the cups bowl with heart wood on may split from the lip of the cup down into the middle of the bowl, and the sides adjacent may distort/ warp...."


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Two Socks

Settler
Jan 27, 2011
750
0
Norway
That actually makes sense, although I haven`t had much trouble with the center-side up either if I just take care to dry it really slowly. When I get some larger diameter wood I`ll give this a go and see what it does!
 

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