Re-kindled interest

[Stiks]

I knew it could be dangerous joining this community!

Reading all these posts has put a dent in my Bank balance

I've just ordered one of those fine looking Helle Harding knives, most owners of this particular knife appear to have had to re-finish the handle, I shall no doubt do the same.
I read something about 'tung oil'? Or would boiled linseed be ok? I've not done a lot of woodwork!

Just looked at an HM Tregor ... looks nice too ... (Rw 63 uhmm, could be a pig to sharpen) ..... Oh no! I sense another purchase comming on! Must stop reading, now!

Catch you all next year

Stiks

 

[Toddy]

Hi Stiks, welome to BcUK.
There'll be answers to your query along shortly, I'm sure

Cheers,
Toddy

 

[beowolf762]

Hi stiks,
Welcome. As far as usability BLO (boiled linseed oil) and tung oil are pretty much the same. I have even used both on the same table I was refinishing. I ran out of tung oil, and finished the last 3 coats with BLO,with no ill effects. I hope this helps you.

 

[Stiks]

Hi stiks,
Welcome. As far as usability BLO (boiled linseed oil) and tung oil are pretty much the same. I have even used both on the same table I was refinishing. I ran out of tung oil, and finished the last 3 coats with BLO,with no ill effects. I hope this helps you.

Thanks for the welcome again all,

Thanks Harold I will just use BLO then.

Cheers,

Stiks

 

[scruff]

Boiled Linseed Oil is toxic is toxic whereas Tung Oil isn't.

I find BLO gives a deeper colour and seems to 'set' more than normal linseed oil, perhaps not penetrating as well.

On handles I find after soaking for a couple of days it usually needs a good rub over with super fine wire wool and then over the next few days rubbing in the oil with the same grade wire wool.

This is just my method and I'm by no means a knife making expert.

 

[beowolf762]

Boiled Linseed Oil is toxic is toxic whereas Tung Oil isn't.

I find BLO gives a deeper colour and seems to 'set' more than normal linseed oil, perhaps not penetrating as well.

On handles I find after soaking for a couple of days it usually needs a good rub over with super fine wire wool and then over the next few days rubbing in the oil with the same grade wire wool.

This is just my method and I'm by no means a knife making expert.

Scruff is right about toxicity. my method for applying finish is the rub on, rub off method.
step one: finish to your desired smoothness
step two:raise the grain of the wood, wipe on some denatured alcohol. the compressed wood fibers will raise, sand off raised grain with the last grade of sandpaper you used or use 0000 steelwool.
step three: repeat step two as many times as it takes,until the grain will not raise.
Step four: wipe on whatever oil you desided to use BLO or Tung Oil Wait a minute or two and wipe excess off that did not absorb into the wood.
Step five: look at the handle under a strong light, if you see a cloudiness onthe handle polish off with 0000 steelwool ( this step is probably not needed in the first few coats as the wood will absorb the oil if you apply it THIN, I put a drop of oil on my fingertip and apply the oil as thin as possible, then rub the wood with the ball of my thumb unit the oil is absorbed).
Step six: repeat step 4 & 5 until all the grain is filled and you have the finish you desire. do not let any drops of oil dry on your handle, BLO and Tung Oil turn into a substance call linoxin(sp?) and it is harder than a junk dealers heart. you will have to start over with coarse papper to get it off.
Perhaps I do not get the yellowing that Scruff describes because I use several thin coats rather than soaking in oil fo one thich coat.
This is how I refinish furniture and gunstocks.
Sorry for being so long winded. I wanted you to be clear on my methods.