No one has said that at all.
Just given their opinions based on experience and personal preferences
Edit to add- im also specifically talking about the knife in the first post.
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Questions about restoring a blade
- Thread starter 2trapper
- Start date
No one has said that at all.
Just given their opinions based on experience and personal preferences
Edit to add- im also specifically talking about the knife in the first post.
Sorry but read it as you like. I'm stating what I find and that doesn't mean others have to agree. I never said give up what you do as there are plenty of people out there that will want what you do. From what I have seen you do some cracking work that I couldn't do. I'm saying I don't personally like it and why I don't like it. If you have taken what I have said personally that's unfortunate and I mean no disrespect but people including myself will always express an opinion.
I have been a knife user and collector for over 25 years and I am doing nothing more than expressing my opinion on what I have found. Like I said others will disagree with my comments if they wish.
I have been a knife user and collector for over 25 years and I am doing nothing more than expressing my opinion on what I have found. Like I said others will disagree with my comments if they wish.
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No one has said that at all.
Just given their opinions based on experience and personal preferences
Not quite true as people will now read and take on board johnyboys comments and most likely be put off from requiring my skills
Hows that figure?
They've read his opinions but most folk are intelligent enough to decide for themselves what they do or do not want to have done to their tools
Judging by the quantity you skill trade there is a want for what you do one persons statements shouldn't influence that much. (Unless its ray mears about an item of kit
)If you look at the edit I've stated my view was purely about the knife in this thread.
Everyone has their own opinions and I like filework (although never had a blade with it before) but it would be better not to turn the thread into an argument and just keep it civil .
.
2Trapper, good start. The scales did look shot so replacement seems very sensible. Keep the originals as a pattern for the next set. I'd stick with beech again if you have any, but personal choice.
Try and get some fine wet and dry in various grades and take the finish down with that finer. With those you can then sharpen it too with the paper bonded to a flat surface. If it's a carbon steel then any acid should help bet that patina started but use is the best way to bet a proper feel to it again
Keep us posted on how you do
Try and get some fine wet and dry in various grades and take the finish down with that finer. With those you can then sharpen it too with the paper bonded to a flat surface. If it's a carbon steel then any acid should help bet that patina started but use is the best way to bet a proper feel to it again
Keep us posted on how you do
I prefer file work done on the tang between the scales. This way it looks mighty fine but doesn't get in the way of the business end.
Take a look at driftwood walkers knives and tell me they arent pretty special AND usable.
Anyhoo. Good job we all like different things really otherwise it'd be a very boring place.
Saying that, this particular knife I would've left as, just a quick sharpen and a little bit of tlc. Some things should he timeless.
So. Squarely on the fence.
Take a look at driftwood walkers knives and tell me they arent pretty special AND usable.
Anyhoo. Good job we all like different things really otherwise it'd be a very boring place.
Saying that, this particular knife I would've left as, just a quick sharpen and a little bit of tlc. Some things should he timeless.
So. Squarely on the fence.
2Trapper, good start. The scales did look shot so replacement seems very sensible. Keep the originals as a pattern for the next set. I'd stick with beech again if you have any, but personal choice.
Try and get some fine wet and dry in various grades and take the finish down with that finer. With those you can then sharpen it too with the paper bonded to a flat surface. If it's a carbon steel then any acid should help bet that patina started but use is the best way to bet a proper feel to it again
Keep us posted on how you do
Thank you very much. The knife was left on the shelf since many years and not used. The item looked very good as for materials, but it was in a quite poor state, as another beautiful cutting board. My first thought was to replace the handle and reshape the blade. The tip is quite bent (not visible in the picture) and the edge is not safe when you handle the knife (1/8"exceeds from the wood). So the scheduled actions are:
- Have a rough polish of the blade
- Make a pattern from the original scales (I used a cardboard model, a bit bigger than the original, thinking about the sanding process)
- Remove the scales
- Verify the shape of the tang (The oxidation points to a carbon blade)
- Give a full polish to the blade and then sharpen it (unfortunately there are signs of deep oxidation and I think this point will be done by a skillful artisan)
- Make some filework on the tang
- Rebuilt a new handle. For Albus: Yes, it will be beech, that is quite traditional in North Italy
- Fill properly the handle on the tang, using probably a fiber as spacer. There was a bit of room between the tang and the handle and during years a lot of dirt filled this space.
- Oil the handle and start to use the blade again
The use of filework probably would pleased the original maker. He didn't make, but I think he would make this restoration adding it
Well, no going back on the filework now!
for the handle, was the tang rebated in? Looks like it doesn't go all the way to the back of the handle.
for the handle, was the tang rebated in? Looks like it doesn't go all the way to the back of the handle.
And the work goes on. I cut my finger (a quite deep gash, but I'm idiot and next time I remember well to cover the blade, wear protective gloves nad so on) but I'm at good point. Here the filework (I'm quite satisfied for the first time)
Nice effort as you have found out filework is not as easy at it looks .
Keep up the good work
I normaly see these threads and follow them with interest... I love refurbing old sharps.. but like to keep them how the maker made them, each to their own..
I normaly give my Sharps a bath for two weeks or so in Molasses and water mix, this takes off all the corrosion, with out attacking any of the parent metal..unlike Acid. Molasses leaves a nice used finish... and a lot of the chariter, and saves the metal from all those harsh marks from wet and dry....
I then like to work back any bad damage, or on axes de-mushroom the poll where it has been abused, if the handle/helve/scales can be saved I reuse them...
I am a great fan of keeping as much orgianal as possable... so Not a fan of the file work, but looking forward to seeing the finished item.
The one I have just done was a small Choper, that had been hit with a hammer on the top edge, and the handle was split, very dirty, so that was taken a part, all metal parts molassed, then cleaned up with water, oiled, and then tyded up most of teh damage on the back spine, The handle was bleached clean for a few days clamped and glued back together, stained, waxed with bees wax and put back togther... so it looks quite traditional.
Keep up the good work of saving old tools
I normaly give my Sharps a bath for two weeks or so in Molasses and water mix, this takes off all the corrosion, with out attacking any of the parent metal..unlike Acid. Molasses leaves a nice used finish... and a lot of the chariter, and saves the metal from all those harsh marks from wet and dry....
I then like to work back any bad damage, or on axes de-mushroom the poll where it has been abused, if the handle/helve/scales can be saved I reuse them...
I am a great fan of keeping as much orgianal as possable... so Not a fan of the file work, but looking forward to seeing the finished item.
The one I have just done was a small Choper, that had been hit with a hammer on the top edge, and the handle was split, very dirty, so that was taken a part, all metal parts molassed, then cleaned up with water, oiled, and then tyded up most of teh damage on the back spine, The handle was bleached clean for a few days clamped and glued back together, stained, waxed with bees wax and put back togther... so it looks quite traditional
.Keep up the good work of saving old tools
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