Quality leatherwork - what do you look for?

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There are some great leather craftsmen (and women I imagine) on this forum, and I believe in learning by emulating what is being done by the experts. To that end I have watched a lot of videos, and looked at a lot of pictures on the internet to try to learn to make the best sheaths (I'm also a budding knife maker) that I am able to. I think that I'm doing a pretty good job so far, but I am well aware that an expert (in anything) sees details that are often overlooked by novices.

So what do you look for as indicators of quality leatherwork?

This is a sheath (my 4-5th I think) that I just finished over the weekend - feel free to point out anything that you see as sub-standard.

sheath-dangler.JPG


dangler-sheath-1.JPG


This is admittedly the first time I have even come close to getting the stitches straight on the back. Practice practice...

Thanks.
 

quietone

Full Member
May 29, 2011
821
93
Wales
That's beautiful. I don't think you'll get anyone picking holes in that work. If you did want constructive criticism, then an expert in leather craft would need to see that first hand. I'm in no way an expert, but that's a handsome sheath indeed.

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk
 

Klenchblaize

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Nov 25, 2005
2,610
135
65
Greensand Ridge
a. Edging without a glue line.

b. Stitching that "sits up" nicely and at a pleasing angle that only the use of pricking irons deliver.

c. Pricking iron size (stitches per 1") should be in proportion to the article.
 

Dreadhead

Bushcrafter through and through
I would say that there are no 'experts' really. Follow your own path, and do things to the best of your ability in the way you like to do them. Your work will evolve as you go, and develop into your own style, and it is that which makes good crafts in my opinion :)
 

Robbi

Full Member
Mar 1, 2009
10,247
1,040
northern ireland
That's beautiful. I don't think you'll get anyone picking holes in that work. If you did want constructive criticism, then an expert in leather craft would need to see that first hand. I'm in no way an expert, but that's a handsome sheath indeed.

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

+ 1.... the above says it all... a lovely sheath.
 

quietone

Full Member
May 29, 2011
821
93
Wales
I would say that there are no 'experts' really. Follow your own path, and do things to the best of your ability in the way you like to do them. Your work will evolve as you go, and develop into your own style, and it is that which makes good crafts in my opinion :)
Well said that man.

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dazcon

Nomad
Jan 8, 2010
443
24
clydebank
I've made about thirty leather sheaths now over the years. I'm very much still on a path of continuous improvement. Probably always will be!! I'd be more than happy if I had made your sheath! There will always be purists and traditionalists that will see faults....But is it a fault or just their own personal preference? Is there really a right way and a wrong way? You will know yourself where you may be able to improve this sheath as you know it better than anyone. You will have seen enough sheaths to know what YOU like in a sheath!!
 

Macaroon

A bemused & bewildered
Jan 5, 2013
7,214
367
73
SE Wales
Purely a matter of taste, but one thing that drew my eye is that at the top end of the piece, with the knife inserted, there's the steel tang visible which sits well with the white metal (nickel?) fittings on the top end, then just below these is a copper rivet which seems to relate to nothing else in the design. I'd have liked a nickel plated rivet there, or better still no rivet at all.

I'd like to make a sheath that had only such a minor issue (in my own eyes). I think it's a very cool piece of work :)
 

Klenchblaize

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Nov 25, 2005
2,610
135
65
Greensand Ridge
My take on this post is the Gentlemen asked for pointers from "Experts" which suggests a desire for a better understanding of what might be considered a Professional and traditional approach to leather article construction and finish.

Developing a style of one's own as has been suggested is absolutely fine and understood but even David Bowie had to familiarise himself with standard chord progressions before taking his art off piste.

K
 
a. Edging without a glue line.

b. Stitching that "sits up" nicely and at a pleasing angle that only the use of pricking irons deliver.

c. Pricking iron size (stitches per 1") should be in proportion to the article.

a. Now that you point it out I do see some glue line - I'll try to do better.
b. If you mean something like this -
authentic-hermes-birkin-stamp.jpg

I have been working on the assumption that for rough use items like sheaths or harness that you want the thread to sit in a groove below the surface to protect it from abrasion - but the stitchery on the fancy French handbag does look like quality. Is there a way to do both? I might put a pricking iron or two on my wish list.
c. Sounds like something that you have to develop an eye for, and I'll be paying more attention to it.

Thanks.

Purely a matter of taste, but one thing that drew my eye is that at the top end of the piece, with the knife inserted, there's the steel tang visible which sits well with the white metal (nickel?) fittings on the top end, then just below these is a copper rivet which seems to relate to nothing else in the design. I'd have liked a nickel plated rivet there, or better still no rivet at all.

I'd like to make a sheath that had only such a minor issue (in my own eyes). I think it's a very cool piece of work :)

You aren't wrong - it really doesn't match the stainless steel hardware. I could do a rapid patina on it to make it blend better with the leather I suppose. Anyway, the copper rivet may be overkill, but it's not cosmetic - that is the place where I have seen old sheaths start to wear out first. Copper saddle rivets are actually peened in place and they compress the leather - if there is a silver toned equivalent I don't know of it, but that doesn't mean there isn't one. But point taken. I don't pay as much attention to style as I do to function sometimes - even when perhaps I should. If I want my work to compare well I should. Thanks for pointing that out.

My take on this post is the Gentlemen asked for pointers from "Experts" which suggests a desire for a better understanding of what might be considered a Professional and traditional approach to leather article construction and finish.

Developing a style of one's own as has been suggested is absolutely fine and understood but even David Bowie had to familiarise himself with standard chord progressions before taking his art off piste.

K

That is exactly what I was asking for.

Thanks to everyone for the encouragement.
 
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bobnewboy

Native
Jul 2, 2014
1,296
849
West Somerset
Looks pretty dang good to me. I currently aspire to be as good as you, and then in a dreamtime future to reach the heights attained by Hamish. Maybe when I retire from my current employ...Well, I can dream, cant I ? ;)
 

Klenchblaize

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Nov 25, 2005
2,610
135
65
Greensand Ridge
I have been working on the assumption that for rough use items like sheaths or harness that you want the thread to sit in a groove below the surface to protect it from abrasion.

And I wouldn’t dream of suggesting that such an approach is wrong even were I an Expert. Which I’m most certainly not.

Only the back of stitching on the few sheaths I’ve made has been ‘lost’ in the groove you refer to but that is a purely cosmetic decision and allied to a belief that even with hard use the Tiger thread used will outlive me. I also choose to use a #7 or #8 pricking iron that many would consider far too many stitches per inch. This I would agree with were I producing commercially but I only make for my own use so take as many hours as I like making something.

With regard to making stitching sit-up as per benchmark quality casework, when you get your first harness and portmanteau set of matching pricking irons practice on an offcut and adapt your stitching technique in accordance with what delivers the most consistent and pleasing result. This should include a 2” row as per your current manner of casting the stitch and another in the opposite direction. I don’t know if you cast over or under at the moment?

All the best

K
 

bobnewboy

Native
Jul 2, 2014
1,296
849
West Somerset
Impressive photography Bob.

Thanks David.

I think my next step will be to fabricate a stitching pony or at least some kind of decent stiching clamp / third hand. I have a lot of stitching to do in making a bronze sword sheath/scabbard soon - inspired by Hamish. Holding the leather pieces to be used will be far beyond the scope of the bulldog clips that I have used in the past.
 

Dreadhead

Bushcrafter through and through
Thanks David.

I think my next step will be to fabricate a stitching pony or at least some kind of decent stiching clamp / third hand. I have a lot of stitching to do in making a bronze sword sheath/scabbard soon - inspired by Hamish. Holding the leather pieces to be used will be far beyond the scope of the bulldog clips that I have used in the past.

Funnily enough I've made several sword scabbards well over a metre in length, and have still never used a stitching pony in my life! Too much faff for me, though I can see how they could be handy.

Would love to see pictures when you're done. Always fancied a bronze sword myself, very jealous!
 

paulnb57

Full Member
Nov 18, 2007
439
9
Isle of Wight
As a comsumer I would like to see, a well thought out design that is well executed, with neat equally spaced, proportionate stitching, nicely finished edges, crisp stamping/decoration. Cohesiveness of fittings eg all brass or copper etc....Something that does it's intended function without compromise, even dye colouring, all buffed to a similar standard, not too busy, simple understated well made stuff floats my boat

Your sheath is really very nice....
 

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