Protecting a carbon blade

[SCOMAN]

bought a new knife and wondering how best to protect it in between uses, could be some time. I note Ben Orford mentions camellia oil, any thoughts?

 

[Billy-o]

Someone told me that, on their keyring or clipped to the sheath itself, they keep a little bit of oily rag in one of those tiny spy capsules. 3:1 tastes a bit, you know, Victorian. Cam oil is nice and expensive. Baby oil or mineral oil is what I use.

 

[Robson Valley]

For carbon steel, I use good veg oil on everything. Never know what foodie thing I might cut.
I use green honing compound (CrOx + AlOx) which has a wax carrier. That seems to work OK
on all my carving tools, draw knives, adzes and smaller. Pass the salami.

 

[Billy-o]

Olive oil goes a bit claggy and manky if you leave it a while though ... can also be a bit acidic .. though I am not sure of my facts there

 

[Janne]

I wash, dry carefully then apply a tiny amount of any eatable oil. I too have heard about Camelia oil, but not been able to find any.

My brain tells me it is just a Japanese overhyped oil.

Carbon blades will develop a nice patina. Natural protection.
Some nerds force patinate the blades.

 

[Broch]

If you mean put away and forgotten for years then you'll need to wipe clean, dry, oil and wrap in oil-cloth. Any non-acid content oil really. If you mean, wiped, put in the sheath then taken out again a week later - literally I wipe with any machine oil (3:1 is fine) damped cloth and sheath it; my sheaths end up slightly oily inside (which I think is good). I always wipe my blades down before using them on food. I once had a sheath that started smelling a bit rancid and I presumed it was the vegetable oil I had used so stopped using it - but that was a very long time ago and I could have been wrong.

 

[Robson Valley]

EVO will oxidize with a surface application if you have no plans to use the knife.
Unlikely at my place, even stagnating from one hunting season to the next.
Mineral oils like pharma grade mineral oil would do for long term protectio, like axle grease.

It's only a piece of steel. Don't leave it stuck in a lemon. Try any oil = see how that works out.
I use whatever veg oil is on the kitchen bench for knives and all 5 cleavers.

 

[Fadcode]

wipe clean, wd40 or similar, light spray, if leaving for a while don,t leave it in the leather sheath

 

[Stew]

What's the knife?

 

[Tiley]

Clean it, dry it and then add a thin coating of Camellia oil or Ballistol Klever. The latter is has an amazing story behind it, doesn't smell too promising but boy, it really does do the job of protecting a blade from rust!

 

[SCOMAN]

Cheers guys thank you.

 

[Janne]

Ballistol smells nice. Brings back many happy gun cleaning sessions!
It is totally harmless, you can swallow it, also harmless on your skin.

What is the story behind it?

All I know is that the Germans used it for a myriad applications during WW2.

(Another plus is that it does not gum up the gun mechanism winter time, but that is unimportant for you Brits)

 

[zornt]

Cut through a chunk of bees wax. It will protect the blade nicely and is food safe.
Jon

 

[Fadcode]

Cheapest way is probably a thin coat of vaseline, vaseline is also the recommended process to ensure swords are kept free from rust and rot.

 

[greg.g]

I carry a small pot with vegetable fat or lard in it.
A tiny dab each side and wipe seems to work ok.
Comes in handy when cooking as well.

 

[Sundowner]

Olive oil onto a bit cloth, rub it into blade and handle. Mainly because I cook most foods with it

 

[Robson Valley]

Any oil will do. BUT, you might as well use one which is Food Safe.
Use the knife a lot in the kitchen. Nothing better than a wash/dry and a very thin smear of olive oil.
Learn to sharpen it with no more than your field kit.