Pros/Cons of the different steels used in Mora knives?

TheGreenMan

Native
Feb 17, 2006
1,000
8
beyond the pale
...I have been trying to figure out the exact chemistry of black iron oxide...

This would be nice to know!

...but suffice it say, black rust is a form of iron oxide, but due to the physical characteristics, is tends to exclude further oxygen from rusting the steel because it makes a smoother... When I put my Mora blade in a dilute vinegar solution, the steel turned dark grey/black. I think having this coating precludes the red rust from appearing...

Well, it certainly seems to help somewhat, but I find that putting a mirror polish on the entire surface of a carbon steel blade helps a lot more. Water seems to form a continuous film which is evenly distributed over the surface of an etched blade, but on a mirror polished blade the water beads-up and rolls off. I find than polishing a stain-resistant blade helps too, but not in terms of resisting oxidation (although it may help with some types of stain resistant steels, not all resist to the same degree), but to reduce the friction of the blade passing through seasoned wood, when whittling, etc. I've mirror polished a Fallkniven F1 and the VG-10 steel seems to glide through seasoned wood almost as easily as much thinner, convexed blades of pocket knives. Although, it has to be said that I thinned the edge of the F1's convex somewhat, so that would also help its ability to penetrate.

...Anyway - all I know is that after I use my Mora, I either dry the blade before putting it back in the sheath, or give it a quick wipe with some oil - either vegetable, mineral, WD-40 etc...

But does your 137 spark?

Cheers,
Paul.
 
But does your 137 spark?

Cheers,
Paul.

If I may split hairs - it is not the knife that sparks, it is the ferrocerium rod fragments that spark... but perhaps you are asking if it sparks when struck on flint - dunno. Haven't any flint here near Toronto, at least that I can find. I have tried to make it spark with a hard looking stone, but it just put dented in my blade... and didn't spark. I would think it wouldn't be great at sparking though. I think the non-laminated carbon steel blade would be best for that.

I want to get a proper flint and steel set - in time.

Cheers

Mungo
 

Hoodoo

Full Member
Nov 17, 2003
5,302
13
Michigan, USA
If I may split hairs - it is not the knife that sparks, it is the ferrocerium rod fragments that spark... but perhaps you are asking if it sparks when struck on flint - dunno. Haven't any flint here near Toronto, at least that I can find. I have tried to make it spark with a hard looking stone, but it just put dented in my blade... and didn't spark. I would think it wouldn't be great at sparking though. I think the non-laminated carbon steel blade would be best for that.

I want to get a proper flint and steel set - in time.

Cheers

Mungo

By "sparks" I'm sure Paul and I are talking about throwing sparks from a ferro rod, and not from the knife steel itself. That would be a whole different issue.
 

TheGreenMan

Native
Feb 17, 2006
1,000
8
beyond the pale
If I may split hairs - it is not the knife that sparks, it is the ferrocerium rod fragments that spark...

You may, and you're quite right, about the ferrocerium fragments, Mungo :)

...but perhaps you are asking if it sparks when struck on flint - dunno...

Nope, it's definitely ferrocerium rod use with Mora laminated blades were discussing here, well, at least I am :D

...I think the non-laminated carbon steel blade would be best for that...

Without doubt.

...I want to get a proper flint and steel set - in time...

They're fun, but not a method to use if one needs to get a fire going in a hurry, I would say, but someone with more experience than me might know better. The sparks are produced very reliably, at least from the steel striker that I have.

Thanks, Mungo,
Paul.
 

TheGreenMan

Native
Feb 17, 2006
1,000
8
beyond the pale
By "sparks" I'm sure Paul and I are talking about throwing sparks from a ferro rod, and not from the knife steel itself. That would be a whole different issue.

Indeed it would.

EDIT: Hope the above line didn’t come over as being rude in any way. It was in fact intended for it to be sympathetic to your sentiments.

Cheers,
Paul
 

John Fenna

Lifetime Member & Maker
Oct 7, 2006
23,307
3,090
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Pembrokeshire
Flint, steel, charcloth and Birch Polypore fungus = fire in a few moments, - my third favourite fire lighting method.

Bic lighter
Ferro and cottonwool/vas (with its own striker or almost any knife I own)
Flint/steel/char/BPF
Bowdrill or piston
Hand drill or plough (not succeeeded yet)
 

Zammo

Settler
Jul 29, 2006
927
2
48
London
OK, this is interesting. We have two laminated blades that will spark on a firesteel and one that won’t. It would be interesting to know exactly which models each of us are referring to (John, you, and me) And more feedback from other members might be useful to see if a pattern emerges at all (Apologies, I appear to have slipped into ‘nurd mode’)

I’m referring to the blade that is common to both the Frosts Mora 137 and SL-1 (same knife, different sheaths, as listed on Ragnar’s site). I’ve only ever had these Frosts laminated blades, and perhaps I’ve come unstuck by extrapolating from that, that all Frosts laminated blades are ‘equal’……….I just checked mine, of the two I still have in my possession, one won’t spark the other produces feeble sparks.

Anyone else like to share?



When you mention that ‘…it created slight bubbling on the blade…’ do you mean the steel has ‘bubbled’, or that during the etching process bubbles formed on the surface and then rose up through the vinegar? If you meant that bubbles formed on the surface of the steel and then rose up through the vinegar, then this is normal. A similar process takes place when engravers etch copper plates in an acid solution. The traditional way to prevent the gas that forms on the surface of the copper plate which retards the etching process (because the gas bubbles prevent the acid solution from contacting the surface of the plate, resulting in an uneven etch) was to periodically brush the bubbles away with a bird quill.

Similarly, during the blade etch, it might be a good idea to remove the blade from the vinegar from time to time (the formation of gas on the surface of the steel is more pronounced if the vinegar is hot). This would allow the gas to escape into air, and give you the opportunity to wipe off the black-ish coating that forms on the surface of the steel, as this dark coloured substance will also retard the etch.

I’ve no idea what the gas is that forms on the steel, or what the dark coloured gunk is.

Cheers,
Paul.


I have one of these:

frosts2.jpg



Maybe bubbling is the wrong word. The metal has sort of eroded away slightly and caused an uneven surface after I soaked it in Vinegar. A the time I was told this was caused by the Vinegar destroying portions of the weaker metal and exposing the stronger metal sandwiched underneath.
 

TheGreenMan

Native
Feb 17, 2006
1,000
8
beyond the pale
I have one of these:

frosts2.jpg



Maybe bubbling is the wrong word. The metal has sort of eroded away slightly and caused an uneven surface after I soaked it in Vinegar. A the time I was told this was caused by the Vinegar destroying portions of the weaker metal and exposing the stronger metal sandwiched underneath.

Cool, the first Mora in etched Damascus steel :naughty:

Cheers,
Paul.
 

John Fenna

Lifetime Member & Maker
Oct 7, 2006
23,307
3,090
67
Pembrokeshire
By eck!
I am giving up viegar on my chips!
I use standard Malt Vinegar to blacken/patinate nearly all my carbon blades and have NEVER come across it etching metal away.
What kind if vinegar did you use?
 

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