Old Hatchet... What to do?

Danceswithhelicopters

Full Member
Sep 7, 2004
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370
Scotland
Found this old hatchet of my Dad's in a shed clearout. As you can see the handle is super dry and the head has a fair covering of surface rust. The handle is surprisingly solid in the head but it has been tightened up in the past by the application a a couple of nails.

A bit of oil reveals some markings of an Eagle, the words, "Eagle****" and 'No3'.

So, what to do? I have a need for a small kindling hatchet (the head on this is substantial though) and would a refurbishment be doable or worthwhile?

I'm thinking re-oil the handle, de-rust and wirewool the head then a mustard refinish, remove the nails and bang in a new wedge.

Leave the head on during this work?
 

Danceswithhelicopters

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Sep 7, 2004
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And the photos...
 

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Mesquite

It is what it is.
Mar 5, 2008
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Personally I'd take it off to do the work on it because it looks like it's been fitted upside down on the handle. Plus it'll be easier to do all the cleaning up.

Once you've finished cleaning it up fit it back if you were able to save the handle. If not rehang it on a new handle the right way up.
 

Danceswithhelicopters

Full Member
Sep 7, 2004
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Scotland
Went ahead with a soak in Orange oil to keep the head flexible when removing the handle. Soaked up litres (exaggeration) but the nails were removed no bother with a Japanese nail puller and the head drifted off with careful hits to the the underside of the head.

The original wedge was chips and sawdust and there is a crack to the portion that fits in the eye but as I said it is very solid, well grained wood with plenty of character worth saving.

Head now off, as advised, and soaking in vinegar. Handle scraped using a sharp edge and apart from being ingrained with decades of dirt is as hard as iron.

I think I might go for the wood wedge to fill the gaps nicely but maybe one of those circular finishing wedges?
 
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British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
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Circular wedges (hammer wedges) work well but can split old, dry wood. Tiny no.1 size axe wedges work better in my experience - but both are fine if you are careful. Clearly any wood wedge must go in bone dry because if it shrinks in such an old handle it will come loose. Lovely old axe you have there and nothing wrong with it.
 

C_Claycomb

Moderator staff
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Oct 6, 2003
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This stuff, diluted, and used as a bath with item left to soak does a great job after loose rust is mechanically removed.
 

Broch

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Jan 18, 2009
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I love bringing old tools back to life, especially axes.

I would use wooden wedges personally. The problem with old handles is that a wedge in one orientation may not be enough to fully lock the head. I quite like the aesthetic of fitting different hardwood wedges as in the photo below.

I don't very often disagree with Steve, but I think the handle is on the right way round; it allows the axe to be used with a hand close to the head for light work.

EDIT: Sorry Steve, I had brain fade, you meant the head was upside down, doh!

Wooden Wedge.jpg
 
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Danceswithhelicopters

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Sep 7, 2004
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I'm intrigued with the right way /wrong way opinions. Is there not a method relating to markings to say which way is up?

I will Mike the top and bottom eyes tomorrow in daylight.
 

Broch

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Jan 18, 2009
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Well, I think hanging it the other way up would look strange (option on the left, below) but I would consider hanging it the other way round (OH, sorry Steve, that's what you meant!!!)
stoopid me :)

handle options - 25.jpg
 
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Stew

Bushcrafter through and through
Nov 29, 2003
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I'm intrigued with the right way /wrong way opinions. Is there not a method relating to markings to say which way is up?

I will Mike the top and bottom eyes tomorrow in daylight.
I would take some measurements of either end of the eye. If one is wider than the other then that’s likely the top. It does look like it was upside down to me too.
 

FerlasDave

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Jun 18, 2008
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The head does look like it’s on upside down to me too. Another give away is the shape of the eye, it should have a narrow side and a wide side. Wide side goes at the top to allow room for the wedge which is often thicker than a lot of people think.

Too late now but I would have avoided the vinegar too, it can often be too caustic and can destroy the stamped markings rendering them unreadable. A good wire wheel and file work on the pommel are often the best imo.
 

Laurentius

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Aug 13, 2009
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Remove the old handle and carve a new one, then restore the head to some semblance of utility.
 

Danceswithhelicopters

Full Member
Sep 7, 2004
991
370
Scotland
Right, phase 1 complete. Haft off, soaking up an unfeasible amount of oil. Left end on to a tub it capillaried up a small bowl full! The difference in weight is remarkable and suspect the decades being in a dry shed caused the head to become loose and bubba solved by banging in nails.

Measured the openings and ithe flat top is 163mm by 464mm and the bottom with the slight curve is 156mm by 471mm.

I disagree with the vinegar for rust. I've found it to be gentle and the markings are now much clearer. An initial rub with wire wool and Ballistol oil shows it to be in surprisingly good finish-the edge is as sharp as a spoon however.

I'm sourcing some wedges and I'll pause to let the handle settle. I plan on saving it and keep the history and quite fantastic shape.

20221008_152040.JPG20221008_152045.JPG
 
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TLM

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Nov 16, 2019
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So far all vinegars I have tested have been acidic, most rust removers seem to be phosphoric acid based, the positive point is that it tends to leave a thin iron phosphate layer that is slightly rust resistant.

Someone has been hitting the head with a hammer, from the slight mushrooming. I might take that off if the hatchet is returned to active service.
 

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