Oil Finishing Info.

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Bundleman

Forager
Jan 17, 2012
199
0
Woodbridge, Suffolk
Thought i put down some information, very basicily, that might be useful and others could add too...

There are two distinct wood finishes: Those that are abosorbed into the wood and’ feed’ it and those that may soak in a little but then harden and form a protective layer on top.

Most oils fall into the first. When you coat your spoon, etc in them they soak into the outer surface and sit there. This prevents water entering easily but it is not long lasting as the oils will leave the wood each time it is touched or washed.
Adding extra coats dosen’t really add a lot of additional protection. But if you warm the oil it will penertrate the wood deeper. Leaving your ‘project’ to soak in the oil for a day or two will be even better.
It’s also worth considering what oil to use: olive, sunflower, walnut, linseed...
Cooking oils are all good for spoons kuksas, etc . The linseed you can normally buy contains alot of other ‘stuff’ so is best avoided but you can buy pure linseed which is great.
Worth avoiding Walnut oil sometimes in case of allergies.
Also consider the colour of the oil, the lighter it is obviously the natural colours of the wood will show better.

Boiled linseed is the second type of finish. It does penetrate the wood slightly but then drys to form a skin. So additional coats build on this and add more protection. Great for walking sticks,etc.
Other products have additives that make this finish harder; Danish Oil, Lyberons Finishing Oil (my favourite!)
Beeswax polish is similar.

It’s worth knowing that when wood aborbs water it cells can swell to larger than when it was green. This breaks down the structure and weakens the wood but oils don’t do this. Hence if your axe head is loose don’t soak it in water but use linseed oil. (And then drive another wooden wedge in!)

That's all that comes to mind for now, hope it's helpful!
 

Ian S

On a new journey
Nov 21, 2010
274
0
Edinburgh
Disregarding allergies, the best oils to use are 'drying oils' which polymerise on exposure to either light or oxygen. Common drying oils are:

Linseed/Flax (but watch out for boiled Linseed oil, which contains nasty drying agents
Walnut
Tung Nut

Non-drying oils, like olive oil, can go rancid....

Robin Wood talks about various oil finishes on his blog, and he might have also posted here.

Cheers
 

SimonMast

Tenderfoot
Dec 12, 2011
71
0
Hertfordshire
Thanks for that. Any and all knowledge on this I read with interest...

Couple of questions.

1. Are any of walnut, cold pressed linseed and tung better or worse? I currently use walnut and it seems to work well enough, but it intrigues me.

2. Is heating the wood itself to open the pores worthwhile? I read this on a forum post somewhere; not seen it anywhere else.
 

Baggy

Settler
Oct 22, 2009
573
0
Essex, UK
www.markbaigent.co.uk
A few questions...


I have carved a kuksa and have some cold pressed linseed oil. Being very green the wood is quite wet, so when is the best time to oil it, now or let it dry out for some time?

How long does the cold pressed linseed oil take to "cure"
 

Teepee

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 15, 2010
4,115
5
Northamptonshire
Any of these oils can be thinned with white spirit/turpentine on the first coat. It gives better penetration and evaporates completely after a while.

Unboiled linseed takes 7 days to cure properly, boiled is 48 hours.
 

Stringmaker

Native
Sep 6, 2010
1,891
1
UK
I use Tung Oil for all my spoons and will eventually use it for my kuksa when it's done.

My most heavily used item is my "coffee coated" teaspoon. It started off as clean white birch but now looks like oak!
 

Ian S

On a new journey
Nov 21, 2010
274
0
Edinburgh
1. Are any of walnut, cold pressed linseed and tung better or worse? I currently use walnut and it seems to work well enough, but it intrigues me.

Dunno about better or worse. I think Tung is the most protective of the three then Linseed. I haven't used Linseed or Walnut, though.

2. Is heating the wood itself to open the pores worthwhile? I read this on a forum post somewhere; not seen it anywhere else.

Not so much opening the pores of the wood, more causing the oil to thin and penetrate easier. It does seem to work.

Cheers
 

Ian S

On a new journey
Nov 21, 2010
274
0
Edinburgh
I have carved a kuksa and have some cold pressed linseed oil. Being very green the wood is quite wet, so when is the best time to oil it, now or let it dry out for some time?

I'd let it dry fully first.

How long does the cold pressed linseed oil take to "cure"

Touch dry in probably a week or two, fully cured in three months plus. I've not used Linseed yet, but this does seem to be the case for Tung, which I have tried (and quite like).

Cheers
 

plastic-ninja

Full Member
Jan 11, 2011
2,235
262
cumbria
Interesting thread.
I tend to just rub my spoons over with a tiny bit of olive oil as it seems to deepen the colour
and then rely on oils from handling them to keep them looking nice.
Except for the bogoak of course which doesn't seem to need any finishing at all.Love it!
Cheers , Simon
 

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