new twist to an old idea- snare wire
- Thread starter GIlls
- Start date
On topic: as a fisherman, I know that stainless steel in fidhing tackle shops will be of 3 sorts:
- Multistrand: for instance Drennan Seven Strand. This makex it flexible thought difficult to put eyes in, because it's springy. You'll need sleeves (1 cm thin metal tube) that you pull the wire through and the clamp shut with pliers.
- Coated multistrand: when wound up into an eyelet, with say 2 cm twisted into itself, you can use a flame to melt the coating together. Tough enough to hold big pikes. (See avatar)
- Stainless steel springwire, single strand. Ususally thicker, up from 0,5 mm to 1,5 mm. Because it's spring wire, it will not bend easily and that's and advantage when fishing. But it is a nightmare to twist/manipulate without pliers.
Just my 2 cents!
Thijs
I call the metal sleeves crimps, and buy them as such for making mackerel traces in bulk.
hmm... seems like i' ve stirred up a bit of a discussion here... anyway my intention was in a survival situation this piece of kit should come in handy for a number of things not just for snares or suture but something that is inexpensive and very versatile. i admit my title may be a bit off... and i apologize, but anyway let the discussion continue.
anyway my intention was in a survival situation this piece of kit should come in handy for a number of things not just for snares or suture but something that is inexpensive and very versatile. i admit my title may be a bit off... and i apologize, but anyway let the discussion continue.
G
Gonefishing
Guest
When I used to snare a fair old lot of rabbits, my snares were made (by me) from phosphor bronze wire. 2 doubled strands for rabbits, 3 for hares or where hares might be an unsought bycatch. Some might say this is on the fine side, but I never had one break yet.
I think I've got one hank of the old wire left; haven't used these items/methods for many years now. PB 4-strand snares are thinner, so kill better; meaning kill more rabbits.
Stainless steel is springy stuff and prone to kinking. Brass and bronze are ductile alloys, and stay put when bent, and a running noose of brass or bronze will not tend to spring open as a SS one might do. If life depended on it I'd make do with what was available, but not otherwise.
Rabbits don't run ears-down, so you should accommodate the full head-and-ears height, with the noose having adequate clearance all round. Lots of people underestimate how high the noose should be set (the commonly quoted man's fist height is too low) and also how big the noose should be.
If you don't check and empty your snares early - before/during sunup, crows and suchlike will rob you - and you'll find holes punched into the carcases where the crows stab into the rabbit to get the tasty inside bits. No dealer will take rabbits damaged like this.
With a fresh set I usually expected a decent ratio of kills the first day, less the second, and by the third a move was often needed as the return wasn't worth the candle. If the population was still too high I'd then follow up with other methods - but these are more time intensive, and expensive. Snares are more economical in terms of both outlay and time.
There are places that are good for snares and places where snares should not be used.
Keep them away from rights of way and other areas where the public might notice - not for legal reasons, but the public likes its Peter Rabbit mythology and them seeing a rabbit in a snare isn't the way to foster good local relations.
I think I've got one hank of the old wire left; haven't used these items/methods for many years now. PB 4-strand snares are thinner, so kill better; meaning kill more rabbits.
Stainless steel is springy stuff and prone to kinking. Brass and bronze are ductile alloys, and stay put when bent, and a running noose of brass or bronze will not tend to spring open as a SS one might do. If life depended on it I'd make do with what was available, but not otherwise.
Rabbits don't run ears-down, so you should accommodate the full head-and-ears height, with the noose having adequate clearance all round. Lots of people underestimate how high the noose should be set (the commonly quoted man's fist height is too low) and also how big the noose should be.
If you don't check and empty your snares early - before/during sunup, crows and suchlike will rob you - and you'll find holes punched into the carcases where the crows stab into the rabbit to get the tasty inside bits. No dealer will take rabbits damaged like this.
With a fresh set I usually expected a decent ratio of kills the first day, less the second, and by the third a move was often needed as the return wasn't worth the candle. If the population was still too high I'd then follow up with other methods - but these are more time intensive, and expensive. Snares are more economical in terms of both outlay and time.
There are places that are good for snares and places where snares should not be used.
Keep them away from rights of way and other areas where the public might notice - not for legal reasons, but the public likes its Peter Rabbit mythology and them seeing a rabbit in a snare isn't the way to foster good local relations.
G
Gonefishing
Guest
Whoops, hadn't realised this was my first post on the forum. Just noticed my post count is 1 on sending in that one about snares.
Apologies.
Been lurking & reading for a long time...
Ian
GF
Apologies.
Been lurking & reading for a long time...
Ian
GF
I have been shown, in demos, how to set squirrel snares made from stainless steel locking wire. This is used by people in the aircraft industry to wire bolt heads together so they do not come undone under vibration. It is strong stuff, but fairly ductile, not springy at all. Thing is, it will cut through itself at the loop if you only have single strands crossing.
I would imagine this would happen with brass wire too, but brass isn't strong enough to even try using as a single strand, so the issue never arrises. The way that we were shown of spreading the load could argueably turn the snare into a self locker. There are some threads kicking around about this, possibly in Fair Game.
I would imagine this would happen with brass wire too, but brass isn't strong enough to even try using as a single strand, so the issue never arrises. The way that we were shown of spreading the load could argueably turn the snare into a self locker. There are some threads kicking around about this, possibly in Fair Game.
G
Gonefishing
Guest
Unless your local squirrels are absolutely all greys, and I'm not sure you could ever be completely sure of that, how would you (if you actually do this) avoid snaring reds?
Most places in England only have grey squirrels. This map is 10 years out of date, but it gives a rough idea that there aren't many places in England where selective trapping would be a problem.
From the Foresty Commission site.
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