Nettle bow atring tutorial. Anyone?
- Thread starter Skaukraft
- Start date
Nettle string is nettle string. When you tie it, under tension to each end of a bow, it becomes a nettle bow string. Simples.
In order to make a bow string from nettle you would need it to be 3 or 4 ply. Ive never tried tbh.
I have to disagree. You choose the stems and adjust the rotting-process according to what you are using the string for.
If you make a bowstring from linen thread of stated breaking strain you select the number of threads according to the weight of the bow multiplied by a factor of, say, three. It would seem sensible to apply some sort of the same to nettle bowstrings but you could always just make up the string and put it on the bow and worry about it breaking after the string snaps or the fibres separate.
I find that nettle doesn't make the strongest string so I use it fresh and green, there is very little wastage as the stalk bark is nearly all fibre. If I want stronger string I use flax or Lime which does need to be rhetted in order to seperate it from the non fiberous stuff but the process of rotting rarely adds to its strength.(IME)
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Ah, bushcrafters 
(that's bushcrafters v ropemakers & spinners )
Nettle string made from the entire skins is very strong, but it'll not do for long as a bow string.
However, if you rett it down, seperate out the fine fibres and spin those into thread, and then ply it up, it'll be very, very good indeed.
Not as good as good linen for this, but still very sound and reliable.
It's a lot of work for a bowstring though, you'd be better off growing a handful of flax and using that, I think.
On t'other hand, nettles grow wild from one end of the country to the other.
You could do it with the skin on stuff, if you pared it off very finely, left no weak bits where it's come off over the leaf nodes, spin (or roll and ply) it very finely, and ply lengths of that up.
The problem is that the skin doesn't actually do anything but hold the fibres, and it's the fibres that you really want to make the bowstring. In use the twisted, dried skin will slowly flake off, and the spin/twist/ply is then not as tight as you originally made it, and the string weakens and snaps.
Best of luck with it let us know how you get on ?
cheers,
M
(that's bushcrafters v ropemakers & spinners )Nettle string made from the entire skins is very strong, but it'll not do for long as a bow string.
However, if you rett it down, seperate out the fine fibres and spin those into thread, and then ply it up, it'll be very, very good indeed.
Not as good as good linen for this, but still very sound and reliable.
It's a lot of work for a bowstring though, you'd be better off growing a handful of flax and using that, I think.
On t'other hand, nettles grow wild from one end of the country to the other.
You could do it with the skin on stuff, if you pared it off very finely, left no weak bits where it's come off over the leaf nodes, spin (or roll and ply) it very finely, and ply lengths of that up.
The problem is that the skin doesn't actually do anything but hold the fibres, and it's the fibres that you really want to make the bowstring. In use the twisted, dried skin will slowly flake off, and the spin/twist/ply is then not as tight as you originally made it, and the string weakens and snaps.
Best of luck with it
let us know how you get on ?cheers,
M
Been thinking about this.........I peeled the nettles that I weeded out of my garden earlier in the week (ouch, they were in among the meadowsweet 
) and I have them soaking in water to rett.
I know that if I dry the skins, then soak them, then dry them and rub them between my hands I can often break out the fibres without that much bother (lot easier than all the scutching and beating that folks do )
I think that should work to make good string. It certainly makes good thread
It's quicker if the skins are simmered in alkali for a little while though; hardwood ashes in water works; but while that makes good spun thread for weaving I don't know what it'd do to the necessary, "tension/not snap when tension is released", of a bowsting in use
Is there not information on some of the Bowyers sites ?
cheers,
Toddy
) and I have them soaking in water to rett.I know that if I dry the skins, then soak them, then dry them and rub them between my hands I can often break out the fibres without that much bother (lot easier than all the scutching and beating that folks do
)I think that should work to make good string. It certainly makes good thread
It's quicker if the skins are simmered in alkali for a little while though; hardwood ashes in water works; but while that makes good spun thread for weaving I don't know what it'd do to the necessary, "tension/not snap when tension is released", of a bowsting in use
Is there not information on some of the Bowyers sites ?
cheers,
Toddy
The way you are decribing it is the way I've learned it. But theres probably many ways to do it.
Pick the stems, hang it up to dry, when they are dry soak them in running water for 2-x days depending on the water temp (it has to be running water, still water leaves to much "gue" in the fibres). thickness of the stems and how strong/soft you want the finished product to be. The longer you rett them the softer the finished string will be (but also weaker), if you get it perfect you should get a product very similar to linen (but not quite). After the retting you dry
What I was told about nettle strings on bows was that it had very little stretch (less than linen), but that the strength was a little bit weaker than linen.
Anyway, I hung approx. 6kg of stems to dry yesterday. I was told that 12-15kg should be enough for one bow string. If theres any interest, I'll post the results here.
Befor removing the leaves:
Pick the stems, hang it up to dry, when they are dry soak them in running water for 2-x days depending on the water temp (it has to be running water, still water leaves to much "gue" in the fibres). thickness of the stems and how strong/soft you want the finished product to be. The longer you rett them the softer the finished string will be (but also weaker), if you get it perfect you should get a product very similar to linen (but not quite). After the retting you dry
What I was told about nettle strings on bows was that it had very little stretch (less than linen), but that the strength was a little bit weaker than linen.
Anyway, I hung approx. 6kg of stems to dry yesterday. I was told that 12-15kg should be enough for one bow string. If theres any interest, I'll post the results here.
Befor removing the leaves:
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Sounds good sounds good
That's a *lot* of nettles, but it does take a lot to get fibres fit for spinning.
The fair estimate is that of flax about 11 or 12% of the dried weight is fibre, of nettle it's 1 or 2%.
It's a very good fibre, softer than flax, makes a very fine long wearing white cloth and it doesn't need good arable land to produce it.
We find that still water is fine; but, it will almost ferment, and it's the anaerobic bacteria that breaks down the gluey stuff holding the skin and fibres together. This anaerobic water is toxic to fish, stinks and causes grief if it gets into watercourses without leaching through soil first.
For those who want to try it at home, a bucket of water sitting in a sunny spot in the garden will work, just be aware it'll stink if left long, and you need to watch that the retting doesn't go on too long.
Historically it was often dew retted, just laid out on the grass for the sun and dew to break down the skin. It really needed to be watched though because it can go mouldy very quickly if the weather is wet and there's little sunshine.
Interesting thread Skaukraft, looking forward to seeing how you get on
cheers,
Toddy
sounds good That's a *lot* of nettles, but it does take a lot to get fibres fit for spinning.
The fair estimate is that of flax about 11 or 12% of the dried weight is fibre, of nettle it's 1 or 2%.
It's a very good fibre, softer than flax, makes a very fine long wearing white cloth and it doesn't need good arable land to produce it.
We find that still water is fine; but, it will almost ferment, and it's the anaerobic bacteria that breaks down the gluey stuff holding the skin and fibres together. This anaerobic water is toxic to fish, stinks and causes grief if it gets into watercourses without leaching through soil first.
For those who want to try it at home, a bucket of water sitting in a sunny spot in the garden will work, just be aware it'll stink if left long, and you need to watch that the retting doesn't go on too long.
Historically it was often dew retted, just laid out on the grass for the sun and dew to break down the skin. It really needed to be watched though because it can go mouldy very quickly if the weather is wet and there's little sunshine.
Interesting thread Skaukraft, looking forward to seeing how you get on
cheers,
Toddy
Thnx Toddy.
As nettles are growing everywhere, finding enough wont be a problem. It will be a bigger problem finding enough time (this is not the only project I have going at the moment).
Edit: I might add that I look at the spinning part as the biggest challenge, as I have absolutely no experience with spinning thread.....
I might ask for som advice on that part Toddy.
As nettles are growing everywhere, finding enough wont be a problem. It will be a bigger problem finding enough time (this is not the only project I have going at the moment).
Edit: I might add that I look at the spinning part as the biggest challenge, as I have absolutely no experience with spinning thread.....
I might ask for som advice on that part Toddy.
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This is getting interesting, apologies to Skaukraft for my initial answer.
If it becomes mouldy during dew retting, does it make the fibres useless?
What is the industrial method for separating the fibres? Nettle parachutes were used at Arnham so there must be one.
If it becomes mouldy during dew retting, does it make the fibres useless?
What is the industrial method for separating the fibres? Nettle parachutes were used at Arnham so there must be one.
Commercially they use a decorticator, basically it rolls the skins free. Originally designed for hemp manufacture. It's a mechanical process rather than a chemical then handcrafted one.
The mould is a kind of powdery grey mildew and it just rots the whole thing ..........I live in a wet bit of the world, trying to dry nettles, even stooked, without them going mouldy, isn't always easy.
Usually you can rescue *some* fibres, but the quality might be a bit hit or miss.
Nettle is still grown for fibre, but it's more expensive to produce commercially than silk (European wages, processing, small crop size) just now, so it's usually mixed in with fine quality wool. One of the high end tartan mills is weaving it like that, last I heard.
cheers,
M
The mould is a kind of powdery grey mildew and it just rots the whole thing
..........I live in a wet bit of the world, trying to dry nettles, even stooked, without them going mouldy, isn't always easy.Usually you can rescue *some* fibres, but the quality might be a bit hit or miss.
Nettle is still grown for fibre, but it's more expensive to produce commercially than silk (European wages, processing, small crop size) just now, so it's usually mixed in with fine quality wool. One of the high end tartan mills is weaving it like that, last I heard.
cheers,
M
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Making a natural fiber bowstring has been a goal of mine for my cordage making skill set for a long time but I have not attempted it yet. I had a commercial bowstring break while shooting a bow as a kid and the memory left a deep impression on me, pun intended. The string missed my right eye but left a livid mark on my face, no permanent damage but almost a total tragedy.
I only say this to urge caution. When it comes time to test the string make sure you use safety glasses.
I only say this to urge caution. When it comes time to test the string make sure you use safety glasses.
what is the law regarding growing canabis for hemp. of the aprox 200 strains only about 10% produce high enough levels of thc etc. to be of interest to the pot heads. is it legal to grow any of the remaining 90%
I have some old hemp in my workshop from back in the day when threaded joints for water were sealed with hemp and tallow before ptfe tape was introduced. the fibres are quite long and strong
I have some old hemp in my workshop from back in the day when threaded joints for water were sealed with hemp and tallow before ptfe tape was introduced. the fibres are quite long and strong
I will be peeking towards this thread with interest, so many knowledgable people here.
I for instance am still struggling from time to time making a simple withy, and would love to add a bit to my rope/string making skills
ps what is considered to be the best way to separate the fibers from the nettles core, and is it true that the more reddish stems have stronger fibers?
Yours sincerely Ruud
I for instance am still struggling from time to time making a simple withy, and would love to add a bit to my rope/string making skills
ps what is considered to be the best way to separate the fibers from the nettles core, and is it true that the more reddish stems have stronger fibers?
Yours sincerely Ruud
The stems are easy to peel when fresh and yes the redder stems are stronger fibres but unless you are very picky it wont make any discernible difference to the strength of the string.
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To grow hemp for a fibre crop you need to apply for a Home Office licence. It's not worth the bother.........there are enough nutcases out there who refuse to believe it's a fibre crop and the fields get raided........according to a farmer in Ayrshire who gave up trying.
It's a very, very good fibre, and it can be a beautiful cloth.
I met a Magyar(Romanian/Hungarian minority in the wrong country, never did get it straight, Sandbender might know ) lady who grew, processed spun and wove her own hemp. It was graded in three qualities, coarse, everyday and fine.
The coarse was like our heavy slightly noiled linen cloth of a weight like denim. The everyday was like linen teatowels and the fine was like fine sheeting. It was superb
She was as fascinated by my fine Scottish wools though, she didn't believe that wool was strong enough to be spun on a drop spindle, let alone fine enough to weave tartans. I could happily have spent hours talking with her I ended up with some of her spun hemp and she went away with half of a St.Kilda fleece
Chiseller if you rett that down, it should give you bast fibres, but I don't 'think' they'd do for an arrow firing bowstring, but they should make good rope It makes good cordage just stripped free of the outer bark anyway It's excellent for weaving, especially stuff like chair/stool seats, though someone said they'd used it for snowshoes too. Happy to be proven wrong on the bowstring though
cheers,
M
It's a very, very good fibre, and it can be a beautiful cloth.
I met a Magyar(Romanian/Hungarian minority in the wrong country, never did get it straight, Sandbender might know
) lady who grew, processed spun and wove her own hemp. It was graded in three qualities, coarse, everyday and fine. The coarse was like our heavy slightly noiled linen cloth of a weight like denim. The everyday was like linen teatowels and the fine was like fine sheeting. It was superb
She was as fascinated by my fine Scottish wools though, she didn't believe that wool was strong enough to be spun on a drop spindle, let alone fine enough to weave tartans. I could happily have spent hours talking with her
I ended up with some of her spun hemp and she went away with half of a St.Kilda fleece Chiseller if you rett that down, it should give you bast fibres, but I don't 'think' they'd do for an arrow firing bowstring, but they should make good rope
It makes good cordage just stripped free of the outer bark anyway It's excellent for weaving, especially stuff like chair/stool seats, though someone said they'd used it for snowshoes too. Happy to be proven wrong on the bowstring though cheers,
M
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