mora classic
- Thread starter Man of Tanith
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yeah carbon steel needs a bit of tlc but ive had clippers and so on before i was just taken with the simplicity of this knife over some of the flashier ones i have and use.
To get the most out of your mora, the bevels usually need to be flattened. They typically come with striations along the length if the bevel that should be smoothed out flat. I take mine right down to the edge, eliminating the secondary bevel, replacing it with a very tiny convex microbevel. The three knives above all have tiny convex microbevels although they are difficult to see.
Like that, aiming for something just like it, but the brass making a guard. Plus a thumb rest on the back of the handle.
What do you need to do to make them a good striker for a fire steel?
After I reshaped the top of the blade on the grinder, gently, I tried the firesteel on that part, brilliant, big sparks fly off the last couple of inches.
Well, you would start just like you would sharpen it. Lay the bevels on a flat grinding surface and sharpen away the striations. I like to use sandpaper mounted on a block of wood, usually backed with hard rubber, which helps the sandpaper to dig in. Any flat sharpening stone will work. Go from coarse to fine, until the bevel is smooth and has a mirror finish. To get a microbevel, you can raise the blade slightly on a very fine stone or sandpaper like Mors Kochanski does. That will help peel off the wire edge as well. Personally I use sandpaper mounted on a block of wood with a mousepad glued between the sandpaper and block. I will typically use 1500 and 2000 grit paper and polish the whole bevel, but the give in the mousepad will create a nice convex microbevel at the edge and peel off the wire edge.
In all cases, finish by stropping on leather charged with a polishing compound. I also use leather mounted on a mousepad for this. Keep the bevel flat and let the mousepad set the microbevel. Too much pressure, though, will round the edge.
The knife in the pic came brilliantly sharp but the edge crumbled the first time I put it to a hardwood dowel. I resharpened it and now it's a wood eater.
If you plan on doing a lot of batonning, I'd make the microbevel thicker until you find what works for you.
As a final touch for a stubborn wire edge, I sometimes will hit the edge LIGHTLY with an unsewn buffing wheel charged with a polishing compound. Mine is mounted in a drill.
That puukko is stunning Hoodoo.
I ordered one like it from Jukka a while back. I'm looking forward to getting it.
I ordered one like it from Jukka a while back. I'm looking forward to getting it.
Sweet! You can't go wrong with one of Jukka's knives. He's pretty amazing, as is Pekka Tuominen. The dollar is not what it used to be over yonder so that holds me back from buying more of their knives.
robin wood
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Has anyone heard of the maker E. Jonsson? As far as I knew when I visited Mora a few years ago there were only two makers left there Frost and Erikson. The former bought out the latter a couple of years ago and have re branded as Mora of Sweden. Personally it would not surprise me if this £5 knife is a Chinese knock off though I would be happy to be proven otherwise.
If it was made on the Moon, Robin, I'd still be very satisfied 
it holds an edge for.......? don't know, haven't had to sharpen it yet, still cuts as tho' going through butter. I have dearer knives but this is the one I use, the others? buried in the draw.
it holds an edge for.......? don't know, haven't had to sharpen it yet, still cuts as tho' going through butter. I have dearer knives but this is the one I use, the others? buried in the draw.
I have an E. Jonsson. Picked it up over a decade ago from an army surplus store. It looks like the real deal to me but I can't say for sure.
I did have one made by a Mattson (or matson?). I gave it to a Finn friend of mine whose last name is Mattson. It was fairly old. IIRC, I bought it at a knife show.
Stating which, when I bought mine Mora Classic, next on the shelf were COPY's of Clippers. Some original clippers were there as well, but in one box, half the price, were clipper copys from China witch looked exactly the same: handle material, shape, length. The only difference was NO marking on blade. So be aware
robin wood
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Stating which, when I bought mine Mora Classic, next on the shelf were COPY's of Clippers. Some original clippers were there as well, but in one box, half the price, were clipper copys from China witch looked exactly the same: handle material, shape, length. The only difference was NO marking on blade. So be aware
Personally I have no problem with Chinese knives marked as such or even cheap knives and axes with no country of origin marked but if it says Mora Sweden or Sheffield England then that is where it should be made, then customers can choose where their money goes.
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