Maintaining carbon steel knife

[Robson Valley]

I've been hunting birds for some 60 years. Sometimes on a rainy or a snowy day. That means stripping the guns back at home and drying every last nook and cranny. Then the BIG RAG with 3in1 oil for a total rub down. My shotguns aren't the greatest but I do expect reliability and I do respect appearance. Not a problem so far.

I use the same rag on a couple dozen crooked wood carving knives. All carbon steels.

 

[Bowland Blades]

What i do and recommend to my customers is
Don't wait to clean the knife, before you sheath it clean it with a whipe with whatever you have . Blood and stomach acid is particularly bad for stainless . A few alcohol striking whipes can be stored in your wallet etc
Do not contaminate your shieth especially if its leather
Was in soapy water when able to do so ASAP
Alway dry the knife straight after washing
Apply a light oil , I recommend not ever using wd40 as its mainly water and todays version will in my experience promote rusting
I use browning legia gun oil spray , its the best and although not really cheap it will last years if your only using it on your knife after washing and drying

 

[C_Claycomb]

Hi Bowland Blades,
Where did you hear that WD40 is mainly water? Mainly would suggest over 50% and the MSDS shows 60-80% hydrocarbons. 40% water would in interesting, but it isn't meant to contain any according to the sources I have seen.

I would agree that its not best for long term protection when storing something like the OP's machete in a shed or garage, where condensation can occur. Using it for what it is meant for, as a water displacer, following washing a tool, works just fine.

ATB
Chris

 

[Robson Valley]

In Canada, the WD-40 is now a "Brand" with dozens of different formulations. You have to comprehend and remember the differences. Fact is, the engine degreaser formula does contain water. The original Water Displacing formulation does not contain water. That's self-defeating, correct? I can't understand how anyone would confuse the two.

For real lubrication of dirty door locks ($180 + installation), I use a penetrating and foaming lubricant called Fluid Film. Come in a rattle can with a spout tube. Apply a good snort above10C temperature. I have not used any on a cloth to wipe metal surfaces.

 

[Broch]

In the UK there are a large range of products from WD40 as well but only the original (without any water content at all according to the spec sheet) comes in the traditional blue and yellow can. There's no doubt that it has a lot of very useful applications but a long-term protective coating it is not.

 

[Bowland Blades]

Hi Bowland Blades,
Where did you hear that WD40 is mainly water? Mainly would suggest over 50% and the MSDS shows 60-80% hydrocarbons. 40% water would in interesting, but it isn't meant to contain any according to the sources I have seen.

I would agree that its not best for long term protection when storing something like the OP's machete in a shed or garage, where condensation can occur. Using it for what it is meant for, as a water displacer, following washing a tool, works just fine.

ATB
Chris

Spayed my very expensive fixture bench in tge welding shop with it a few years back , something I have done many times with other water displacing oils . Was orange by the morning . Mentioned it to the locksmith I use regularly, he said its recommended for locks but in reality it corrodes them and he claims its because its now mainly water
I certainly would not buy it for anything today as way better stuff is available for every task it reports to be good for .

 

[Fadcode]

well at least your expensive fixture bench won't get pregnant.
I think any oil is better than none, and it depends how often you use your knife.

 

[Bowland Blades]

well at least your expensive fixture bench won't get pregnant.
I think any oil is better than none, and it depends how often you use your knife.

I can only talk of my direct experience. Wd40 used to be in every garage and workshop across the nation , you won't find it in many today . Its more likely to create corrosion than fix it and its rubbish at releasing threads compared to the many choices .

 

[C_Claycomb]

Hi Bowland Blades,
You keep mentioning better alternatives to WD40. Could you be specific? Usually I'm good enough with Google for this sort of stuff, but apparently not for WD40 matters

Chris


Addendum: 09 April 2021: Didn't want to make a thing of this but was very dubious about assertion that WD40 is mostly water and as such causes corrosion all on its own. So, tried a little control experiment.

Test sample annealed O1 tool steel, sanded 120grit, located indoors, so no risk of precipitation, condensation, or significant dust/grit contamination. WD40 purchased last year. Varnish was an afterthought, applied after WD40 was already spreading, stopped the spread, but did go an odd colour when cured, scraped off and colour not due to corrosion.

 

[Bowland Blades]

Hi Bowland Blades,
You keep mentioning better alternatives to WD40. Could you be specific? Usually I'm good enough with Google for this sort of stuff, but apparently not for WD40 matters

Chris

Browning legia gun oil spray is absolutely perfect. Comes in a bit aerosol can and is specifically designed to do what we need (namely stop steel going rusty in storage or cary and not adversely effect tge wood or plastic / rubberised parts! Its also not a penetrative oil so it won't loosen up epoxy bonded parts in the handle
I have used it for over a decade on my wildfowling guns used on the Saltmarsh and mud , an environment that is very abusive to carbon steels and wood finishes