LR Defender Central Locking Problems

[Klenchblaize]

Hoping one of you guys can help please:

Sequence of events:

1. Rear off side door lock fails to operate.

2. Two weeks later I stop engine and all locks fail to operate from fob.

3. Check alarm/central door locking fuse in box beneath drivers seat and find blown.

4. Replace fuse and as soon as I operate remote locking fob it blows fuse again.

5. Cant now start engine as alarm activates when turning key either with a fuse in or out.

Questions:

1. Is there a single central locking device that may be faulty and if so where is this located?

2. Is this fault most likely due to a defective door lock unit/solenoid (clearly something was wrong with the rear lock before fuse blew)?

3. What else to look for other than the relay?

Many thanks.

Cheers

 

[Adze]

If it were mine I'd see about removing the wiring to the rear door latch and trying a new fuse first. If that stops the problem at least you've got a car you can start, even if you have to lock the back door manually.

 

[landyandy]

If it were mine I'd see about removing the wiring to the rear door latch and trying a new fuse first. If that stops the problem at least you've got a car you can start, even if you have to lock the back door manually.

yes i'll do that aswell .andy

 

[Robbi]

is the battery in the key fob low ?

 

[Klenchblaize]

Cracked it as will only be the case if one gets of ones a*** as well as engaging the grey matter before opening mouth!

Last night I pulled out the rubber shroud from the door frame; the one that carries power/signal to lock, and found both wires snapped due to over-woking.

15 mins with soldering iron & heat shrink and job done!

The battery in fob may be low too as it took several attempts before the alarm/central locking recognised the signal but all OK now.

Thanks for all your suggestions.

Ps: Can you get more powerful locking fobs as mine has never worked very well unless real close to vehicle?

Cheers

 

[Martyn]

Cracked it as will only be the case if one gets of ones a*** as well as engaging the grey matter before opening mouth!

Last night I pulled out the rubber shroud from the door frame; the one that carries power/signal to lock, and found both wires snapped due to over-woking.

15 mins with soldering iron & heat shrink and job done!

The battery in fob may be low too as it took several attempts before the alarm/central locking recognised the signal but all OK now.

Thanks for all your suggestions.

Ps: Can you get more powerful locking fobs as mine has never worked very well unless real close to vehicle?

Cheers

Is this a TD5?

My fob is fine, but I only had the one and was concerned about it failing someday and leaving me dead in the water. They are standard Lucas fobs used on several vehicles - check ebay for "Lucas 17TN Key" there are usually several for sale. I got a couple of spares some time back. The next problem is synching them with the ECU. You either need to find someone with a Nanocom diagnostics tool or a garage with a proper LR diagnostics kit who can program the ECU to accept the keyfob code. It's a very quick job if you have the kit, but LR charge something like £100 per fob to do it. Did all 3 of mine in a pub car park in about 30 seconds using a mates Nanocom.

 

[Nonsuch]

I didn't know they had central locking ! My TD5 doesn't !

NS

 

[phill_ue]

Hold the key fob to you head the next time you lock up. For some reason, it tends to boost the distance your fob will work from, no idea why but it is really weird!

 

[SiWhite]

To boost the distance a fob will recieve, find the alarm ECU (behind the speaker in the dash, driver's side) and there will be a wire about 4 inches long that appears to go nowhere. Extend this - the longer the better - and route it up the side of the windscreen behind the trim cover. Range will magically improve