Let me be clear on this. Bushcrafting is about humility. The last thing I would do is snobbery in a forum in which I'm asking for help.
Thus said, suggesting a city-folk crappy axe to my original request, is completely missing the point of what I'm asking for.
Bushcraft is about self-reliance, Fiskar's is anything but that. For a real axe off-grid person like myself, even talking about those plastic things is blasphemy.
I'm being real, not a snob.
Having said all that. I´m really interested in your suggestions. I've never used bow saws, but I would be willing to give it a try, do you really think they are less effort?
Do you know any good brands in Europe and how to look for a green wood blade?
And about the geometry, please explain, how do make sure the convex is deep enough. I've only used Gränsfors all my life trusting they would be good at designing that.
But I know some people preffer other brands. Gränsfors have deep penetration, but get stuck more than others sometimes. That's what I've heard.
Thank you again. Peace. Kiki
Apologies. I had no idea you were living off grid, in that case a plastic handled axe wouldn't be good.
But they rarely fail. You'd be surprised. And a new fiskars axe will likely cist less than a handle for a GB axe (accounting for time and effort) and for the cost, you could order 4 and use one at a time, they would last a near life time, if used fit for task, (as in not trying to take down a redwood with a hand hatchet)
As for geometry, GB are very good out of the box. But with long use and lots of sharpening. If not done correctly (I am not saying you have done it badly) the convex portion if the bit can get stubier. This would reduce bite.
Compare the red and blue lines. The red is what it was probably like out of the box, the blue might be what it looks like after lots of stropping/honing. Blue would be stronger (no chips) likely stick less, but also bite less. Red would cut deep, stick, and chip. You have to find the balance for the wood you cut and your body.
As for saws, yes they are less effort for anything over a few cm in diameter. Remember you don't need to cut the whole tree*,as in it isn't about strength. And unless you cutting tons of oak you be better for it. Trouble is, blades dull. And most bow saws aren't really shaprenable.
* back cut.
For a bigger tree, cut half way, and chop half way. That will let you aim the fall.
For smaller stuff just cut half of it and push it over. The stump will split a bit, and may leave fibers attached. That's when a small axe comes in.
For really big stuff you'll need wedges.
If you want an off the grid saw, you might want to consider an old style cross cut saw they lend themselves to being sharpened.
But unless you are a logger, I don't think you need to cut that many trees down.
Look at wranglestar on youtube, he has great truly off the gird options.
IMG_2698 by Bradley Buckman, on Flickr
IMG_2705 by Bradley Buckman, on Flickr
IMG_2700 by Bradley Buckman, on Flickr
IMG_2704 by Bradley Buckman, on Flickr
IMG_2703 by Bradley Buckman, on Flickr
