LK35 Modified with MOLLE/PALS panels and Padded Waist Belt

MrEd

Life Member
Feb 18, 2010
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So, I have had my LK35 for about 8/9 years or so, and its a great pack, you can strap loads to it and its (relatively) comfortable for shorter trips. I recently went walking on Snowdonia and took the LK35 as i hadn't used it for a while but i found it semi uncomfortable, and I am getting older and now don't fancy unnecessarily suffering for the 'craft' any longer if you see what i mean! Also the LK35 is basically a sack so organisation is pants.....

When back from wales I spent a while looking at new packs, i wanted something that had some modular style PALS panels so i could change my setup accordingly, but i also wanted top loading, and a frame (internal or external) at around the 40l mark. Such a thing does not exist, well it sort of does in the form of the Maxpedition Zantha or Zafar but they are stupid money and i wasnt prepared to spend that, even though i am a fan of MP stuff and have some pouches already.

This got me thinking, can i mod the LK35 to suit my wants/needs?
Possibly, after extensive googling and measuring of PALS panels and looking at waistbelts i decided i could, so i ordered 25m of 25mm olive green webbing, some guterman extra strong thread and a MOLLE waist belt.....

I first of all started off all fancy with a zigzag stitch on the Mother in laws sewing machine, but it couldn't handle the thickness of fabric, and the arm was to small to work the LK35 bag through, so i ditched that idea and broke out my trusty old singer and just straight stitched it. Job was much easier after that. Each seam was double sewn and the ends of the webbing bar tacked where i could.

First i set out marking out the sewing lines, then i cut the webbing to length and pinned it all in place. Then i spent ages sewing, it was a complete faff working the quite large and stiff bag around the sewing foot and keeping it all straight but eventually i got there. This is the end result, I am quite pleased as i can now organise stuff a bit better, and I have freed up some inside space.

Marking out and pinning on the top panel.
LK35MOD1-e1510259034691.jpg



First lot of sewing, promising so far. I tucked the ends under the green webbing to keep it tidy.
LK35MOD2-e1510259145814.jpg


Planning out the main body, i added webbing at the sides again for neatness.
LK35MOD4-e1510259228816.jpg


LK35MOD5-e1510259285422.jpg



Sewing the front panel, to prove i did actually do it myself lol
LK35MOD6-e1510259358364.jpg



Front panel finished, i lined up the PALS/MOLLE slots to align with the original webbing slots for the lid straps, that way they can still be laid flat and neat when the lid is done up and the PALS can be used at the same time.
LK35MOD7-e1510259413492.jpg



Side panel finished, I am less happy with the stitching on this side, but it works and is strong. Was a complete bitch to sew, i may not do the other side as it was hard to feed it all under the machine foot and not sew the bag together lol
LK35MOD9-e1510259528787.jpg



Finished bag, front, top and right hand side PALS panels sewn on
LK35MOD8-e1510259620369.jpg



Then i fitted the padded belt (US Digicam MOLLE belt) which was so easy i didn't take a photo. Then i fitted the bag back to the frame and fitted some Maxpedition TACTILE pouches (i like these because they are slim but you can fit essentials in them like FAK, GPS, knife, snacks) to the panels i had sewn and the belt. Oh yeah I also attached a velcro panel to the lid for some patches.
LK35MOD12-e1510259734330.jpg



The pouch on the top isn't attached to any PALS - its a pathfinder bottle bag and contains my jetboil and brew kit - i often use this standalone in the boot of the car so didn't want to attach it semi-permanently
LK35MOD13-e1510259882624.jpg



Final shot of the belt i fitted
LK35MOD14-e1510259979931.jpg


Quick walk round the garden with it, it feels a lot more comfortable with the belt, but a proper walk will show for sure.....

Would appreciate comments, constructive criticism/ feedback etc

Ed/f4
 

RonW

Native
Nov 29, 2010
1,577
125
Dalarna Sweden
Now that whole Mollething looks good!!
Really like it. Especially the ones on the front should be useful. I noticed during use that I want to keep the lid free from clutter, but I also want a first aid kit ready ti use.

Ohh and I replaced the shoulderstraps too.
 
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MrEd

Life Member
Feb 18, 2010
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Now that whole Mollething looks good!!
Really like it. Especially the ones on the front should be useful. I noticed during use that I want to keep the lid free from clutter, but I also want a first aid kit ready ti use.

Ohh and I replaced the shoulderstraps too.

That may be the next thing, I find the straps okay tbh.

I may swap the pouch on the top flap for something smaller - a fak would be ideal. As yes, a laden pouch on that flap could make it awkward when open.

Will use it for a bit, may need some tweaking in future.
 

Zingmo

Eardstapa
Jan 4, 2010
1,296
119
S. Staffs
Excellent work. I have one of these packs that I have been making plans for since before it arrived, but I doubt I have your patience to sew all those seams.
Well worth the effort, though.

Z
 

Wander

Native
Jan 6, 2017
1,418
1,986
Here There & Everywhere
Excellent.
It highlights the problem with the charm of a canvas pack - they're just...not that good.
I'm sure we all have one (I do) when we're in the mood for a bit of the bushcraft uniform look, but they are just shapeless sacks of...sh...canvas.
They look good but they aren't really that good in practice.
That's why I always go for a modern MOLLE pack when I actually want to do a bit more than sit in the woods carving another blimmin' spoon.

What you've done looks really good. Though I'm not a fan of external frames myself.
 
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RonW

Native
Nov 29, 2010
1,577
125
Dalarna Sweden
It highlights the problem with the charm of a canvas pack - they're just...not that good.
I'm sure we all have one (I do) when we're in the mood for a bit of the bushcraft uniform look, but they are just shapeless sacks of...sh...canvas.
They look good but they aren't really that good in practice..

I really beg to differ...... I was about to say "What a lot of tosh", but I go for polite tonight.
 

MrEd

Life Member
Feb 18, 2010
2,148
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I like that a lot, a decent pack made more useable, I'd like an lk35 but read they aren't comfy on long backs?
Nice work btw.

I am 6ft2 so have a long back, and without the belt it is ‘bareable’ at best. Unusable at worst. I think they were designed to be worn above a webbing setup and everyone raves about them but they are quite shite in standard guise.

With a padded hip belt and one of the webbing straps located higher up it makes it much more comfortable. It’s not as comfy as my actual berghaus but that is 90l so to huge to be practical for short trips. The hip belt has made the lk35 definitely more useable for a day or two but I wouldn’t want to wear it solidly for more than that tbh (I don’t do trips like that anymore to be fair)


Excellent.
It highlights the problem with the charm of a canvas pack - they're just...not that good.
I'm sure we all have one (I do) when we're in the mood for a bit of the bushcraft uniform look, but they are just shapeless sacks of...sh...canvas.
They look good but they aren't really that good in practice.
That's why I always go for a modern MOLLE pack when I actually want to do a bit more than sit in the woods carving another blimmin' spoon.

What you've done looks really good. Though I'm not a fan of external frames myself.

I prefer an internal frame if I am honest, but I also prefer to not spend money just to have the most current bag so stuck with what I already had.

Trouble is a lot of the ‘tactical’ style packs are to subdivided for my liking, it’s all organisation for pens, notebooks and concealed guns and sh*t I don’t have a need for or carry. I don’t need a pack with 3 different sections, dicid and lots of smaller pockets. I need something to carry sleep, fire, food and spare clothes. A large sack does that well, and with a couple of pouches for my smalls.

I also don’t like clamshell bags as zips often let in moisture, can break etc and there is a risk that when you open it all your stuff falls out. I prefer a top loader that I can root around in that can be easily repaired if needed.
 

SiWhite

Nomad
Apr 1, 2007
343
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Deepest North Hampshire
Great work - I love a bit of MYOG (make your own gear).

My only possible suggestion is in relation to the molle straps - molle is far nicer, quicker and easier to use if you use a ‘molle stick’ like these; https://www.survivaldepot.co.uk/product/molle_sticks

You can very easily make loads from an A4 sheet of kydex, with the added benefit that the pouches are held closer to the body of the raysack.
 

MrEd

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Feb 18, 2010
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Great work - I love a bit of MYOG (make your own gear).

My only possible suggestion is in relation to the molle straps - molle is far nicer, quicker and easier to use if you use a ‘molle stick’ like these; https://www.survivaldepot.co.uk/product/molle_sticks

You can very easily make loads from an A4 sheet of kydex, with the added benefit that the pouches are held closer to the body of the raysack.

Hadn’t come across those, they look quite good, far faster than tacties
 
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Jaeger

Full Member
Dec 3, 2014
670
24
United Kingdom
Aye Up,

Nice work Mr Ed, looks like you've done a nice neat job there. And you can't beat a bit of DIY modification/construction on C&E, it's practically the only way to get exactly what suits your own needs - plus, you can try ideas out and it's nice to feel that you have that extra bit of personal investment in your gear.

I'm not personally a great fan of either external framed rucks or those made from canvas - I've been through the evolution of rucks from the '60s to date including modding several of my own (the most recent I posted on here - an increased capacity NI patrol ruck). But each to his own as they say.

A point that I would ask is - what thread did you use for the molle? Be aware that if it isn't of a type which can swell when it gets damp and you use the ruck in heavy weather and without a ruck cover, you may as well leave the lid open!

I noticed that when I dismantled the aforementioned NI rucks recently (heavy duty rubber backed Cordura not polywhats-it sprayed proofing!) the thread was all a noticeably thick cotton and not polycotton. Have you sealed the threads internally?

Of course you can use individual waterproof bags for internal storage/division and waterproofing but I would suggest that keeping the H20 out in the first place is the best course.

(Thumbs up to you icon here if I knew where to find one).
 

MrEd

Life Member
Feb 18, 2010
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Aye Up,

Nice work Mr Ed, looks like you've done a nice neat job there. And you can't beat a bit of DIY modification/construction on C&E, it's practically the only way to get exactly what suits your own needs - plus, you can try ideas out and it's nice to feel that you have that extra bit of personal investment in your gear.

I'm not personally a great fan of either external framed rucks or those made from canvas - I've been through the evolution of rucks from the '60s to date including modding several of my own (the most recent I posted on here - an increased capacity NI patrol ruck). But each to his own as they say.

A point that I would ask is - what thread did you use for the molle? Be aware that if it isn't of a type which can swell when it gets damp and you use the ruck in heavy weather and without a ruck cover, you may as well leave the lid open!

I noticed that when I dismantled the aforementioned NI rucks recently (heavy duty rubber backed Cordura not polywhats-it sprayed proofing!) the thread was all a noticeably thick cotton and not polycotton. Have you sealed the threads internally?

Of course you can use individual waterproof bags for internal storage/division and waterproofing but I would suggest that keeping the H20 out in the first place is the best course.

(Thumbs up to you icon here if I knew where to find one).


Cool comments, yeah it is a cordura/nylon bag with a rubber lining on the inside. I used polyester thread, at the moment all I have done on the inside is rub beeswax (the hair dry it timely it in) over the thread to ‘seal’ it. I may run some glue or something like that over the threads if it lets a lot through.

I have had good success with beeswax on the inside on some other stuff I have made (boot bag etc) just not sure how it will stand up in yhis application. Will have to see next time it rains and do a real world test rather than hose in the garden test!
 
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Jaeger

Full Member
Dec 3, 2014
670
24
United Kingdom
Aye Up MrEd,

I hope that it works for you, interestingly there was reference made yesterday to the same thread issue in another thread (no pun intended!) and Toddy recommended a specific thread and there was comment about where to get it. I can't recall the thread, still struggling between new posts, recent posts and an obvious icon (or lack of) showing which threads I've posted in!!!

You are right to try things real world - I've been doing it for years with various materials and coatings.. I've usually found that combinations resist water, as you say,with the hosepipe test but once you add heavy, pointy corners, continuous body heat and the abrasion from waist belts and shoulder straps things are a bit different.

A classic example for me has been Fjallraven G1000 clothing and Greenland wax. I've once waxed a jacket so well that it could literally stand up on its own and shed water on the lawn like the proverbial duck - out on the hill in periodical bouts of heavy rain it was bleeding through the shoulders like a sieve in no time!

As I stated I use the NI patrol ruck with its heavy duty rubberised lining. I sealed the Gueterman polycotton thread that I used with Nas-coat and its works fine - not sure if you can still get it here in the UK now. But I always use a ruck outer cover which I made from an old Austrian surplus poncho - lovely dark olive green.
 
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MrEd

Life Member
Feb 18, 2010
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Aye Up MrEd,

I hope that it works for you, interestingly there was reference made yesterday to the same thread issue in another thread (no pun intended!) and Toddy recommended a specific thread and there was comment about where to get it. I can't recall the thread, still struggling between new posts, recent posts and an obvious icon (or lack of) showing which threads I've posted in!!!

You are right to try things real world - I've been doing it for years with various materials and coatings.. I've usually found that combinations resist water, as you say,with the hosepipe test but once you add heavy, pointy corners, continuous body heat and the abrasion from waist belts and shoulder straps things are a bit different.

A classic example for me has been Fjallraven G1000 clothing and Greenland wax. I've once waxed a jacket so well that it could literally stand up on its own and shed water on the lawn like the proverbial duck - out on the hill in periodical bouts of heavy rain it was bleeding through the shoulders like a sieve in no time!

As I stated I use the NI patrol ruck with its heavy duty rubberised lining. I sealed the Gueterman polycotton thread that I used with Nas-coat and its works fine - not sure if you can still get it here in the UK now. But I always use a ruck outer cover which I made from an old Austrian surplus poncho - lovely dark olive green.


Will have to see if I can get a paint in sealer for the inside maybe, like a latex layer?

I could of course use a ruck sack cover in very heavy rain - I am sure it will be okay in light rain/drizzle but persistent rain will likely need a cover.

Soon as it rains I will load it up and go out for a few hours to find out!
 

MrEd

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Feb 18, 2010
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okay, update, have been using this pack a bit more, most recently yesterday when i got caught out in the thunderstorms.
Have only used it for day trips but have some observations.

Having an extra pouch on the lid is a bit unnecessary, i wasn't using it so took it off - it made the lid 'heavy' to use meaning it flopped all over the place when opening the bag.

Pouch on the side, again not really necessary for me, so i removed it and placed a maxpedition cocoon pouch mounted vertically, which is perfect for a my tiny pac-a-mac to live in.

pouch on the belt is useful, i have ainly been keeping my binos and a snack in it tbh rather than a pocket.

Brew kit on top works fine but is better slung on the bottom.

Pouch on the front is useful, i have been keeping immediate access stuff in it - yesterday was gps, my possibles pouch, phone and a small FAK.

Belt is wonderful, has made it much more comfortable to load up.

waterproofing was another concern now i have stitched all over it. However my beeswax trick must be working because the inside of the bag stayed dry, there was some slight spotting through on the lid but not enough to worry about. If i had a set of clothes in there they would be in a palstic bag anyway.

pouch on the front isnt waterproof, and actually gets more water than the rest of the back, as the water runs off the lid right onto it. I will use a small drybag/ziplock bag for anything water sensitive in it next time.

Otherwise the improvements have made a big difference, i will probably not use the top molle webbing though, but its handy to lash things to if i wanted to.
 
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CLEM

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jul 10, 2004
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Stourbridge
That looks great, an. Excellent pack made even better. I love mine and have been using it for years, never found it uncomfortable either.
 
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