Leather working tools

ateallthepies

Native
Aug 11, 2011
1,558
0
hertfordshire
Can anyone give some advice on purchasing some basic Leather working tools please? Is it best to get a ready made new kit or to buy vintage tools as and when the become available?

I guess to start I would need a creasing tool, stitch marker and edging tool?

I have a hole punch and various knives but have been using a small pair of pin nose pliers for creasing which keeps running amok ruining the line!!

Anything else that will come in handy?
 

birchwood

Nomad
Sep 6, 2011
462
109
Kent
I would look for tools as and when, the only kits I have seen are hideously expensive,and probably duplicate the tools you already have or have some you would not need.
A small pair of pliers is useful for pulling needles through (pull in a straight line or the needle breaks)
Some saddlery needles. a lump of wax, edging tool, stitch marker and or punch, a decent diamond awl, thread, leather stain . metal ruler.
That should get you going.
 

Baelfore

Life Member
Jan 22, 2013
585
21
Ireland
there are a few good threads on here about beginning leatherwork and what's needed. A quick search should turn them up.

it all depends as to what type of leatherwork you want to do. if it's simple vegtan stuff, I would invest in a decent awl, then if money allows, a stich grover, overstich wheel (can use a fork if nessecary.) then edge bevelers, V-gouges and the like.

I'm unsure what you mean buy creasing tool, do you mean this?http://www.tandyleather.eu/en-gbp/home/department/tools/mallets-handtools/8117-01.aspx
or this:

If so, this could probably be carved from a hard wood for the time being, but i'm sure Someone more experienced like Sonni or Hammish will be along soon and have a better idea what your talking about.

Hope this helps.

Ste
 

Baelfore

Life Member
Jan 22, 2013
585
21
Ireland
P.S. all my tools/stamps are brand new, simple for the reason that irish carboot sales, (at least out my way) are CRAP!

If you can find it second hand brilliant, they do say "They don't make them like they used to!

Ste
 
I watched this video by Sandy Jack on making a sheath for his Jacklore knife, and ordered one of everything he used in the process. Not exactly cheap, but I have everything I need and it all gets used.

I tracked everthing down all at once because you can't really do a good job with only part of the kit. Most of it came from Tandy Leather work and seems to be pretty good quality.

It improved my leather work immensely.
 
Last edited:

paulnb57

Full Member
Nov 18, 2007
439
9
Isle of Wight
I made my first leather sheath for my Mora (which I still use) using a Stanley knife, a pair of engineers dividers, that I found in the shed, which I used to mark a stitch line and to mark stitch spacing, a reel of waxed cotton, the biggest needle from the sewing box and a dart to punch stitch holes, I've made several other bits and bobs, without having to puchase much else........buy as you need/can afford......it may not be pro standard, but I made it, thats the important bit for me....

Paul
 

ateallthepies

Native
Aug 11, 2011
1,558
0
hertfordshire
Thanks all! I too watched Sandys sheath vid and ordered a few bits. Got an awl, stitch comb set, Tandy stitch groover and some saddlery needles. I also got some curve cutters but had to order from China as the UK sets were expensive.
 

monkey boy

Full Member
Jan 13, 2009
1,533
52
41
london
I got things like needle nose pliers, steel ruler, Stanley knife, chopping board to work on and other bits like that from pound land, then got myself a small kit on ebay and bought my stamps as of when I needed them
 
Apr 28, 2015
6
0
London
About the first thing I got was a skiver blade, it's a shankless blade ground on just one side so you can sliver off the edge of a skin on the inside until it's is almost non-existant: you then glue and sew a little way back from the edge. There's one type of edge creaser which has two blades set by a screw, one runs "in the ditch" alongside the side of the leather and the other presses into it at a constant distance from the edge, creating the recess the stitching marker runs in to leave the stitching buried rather than standing proud of the surface of the leather - it's still visible but won't rub.
As far as decorating leather's concerned, you need to use vegetable tan. To check for this, see if it'll take in water easily - if a drop of water goes straight in, then it's veg tan. You need it to soften the surface for punches and other carving impression tools. Then, for outlining, you'll need a pivot knife for starters, plus a beveller and some pattern stamps - Tandy do these.
If you get into thonging, then thonging stamps are a good idea to get a steady and equal spacing and angle in the slots for the thonging. You can work that up into some fancy Spanish edge braids. Don't use a hole punch the obvious way, reverse it so the punch you want to use is on the outside, place it where you want to make the hole on the leather, resting on some waste wood, and use a hammer on the back of the anvil arm of the punch. They're rarely much use beyond 1mm leather, they won't cut cleanly any thicker if you use them as plier punches, which is why we do it the other way.
 

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