Leather pouch (possible pouch?)

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singteck

Settler
Oct 15, 2005
565
6
52
Malaysia
www.flickr.com
Hi everyone,

I just made a few pouches. Just showing them off now :p

114883133_a3885f1453.jpg


114883134_de5a05587d.jpg


114879515_adb1a2febb.jpg


114879517_a336691048.jpg


113059707_edecf06f9c.jpg


113059711_39b241b9fa.jpg


Thank you for looking. Comments are most welcomed.

singteck
 

singteck

Settler
Oct 15, 2005
565
6
52
Malaysia
www.flickr.com
Thank you Toddy,

I don't work at the moment. On visitor visa to UK so can't work. That also means that I have lots of time to learn crafts and other stuffs.

I was a wireless network engineer and a BMW specialist before that.

Now i am unemployed. :p

singteck
 

Longstrider

Settler
Sep 6, 2005
990
12
59
South Northants
Those pouches are nice. It looks like they are stitched with 45 degree stitching. If thats the case, how on earth do you get it so neat ? I've tried and tried, (and failed) to get that stitch anywhere neat enough to allow it to be seen on a finished piece. Do you have a jig for a machine? Please let on as to how you do it...
 

singteck

Settler
Oct 15, 2005
565
6
52
Malaysia
www.flickr.com
No jig or machine was used. It's all manual labour :)

These few pictures shows the progress if you are interested.

the design as can be seen in the notebook
114881373_15ae088d82.jpg


burnishing the sides
114881374_a506c1c612.jpg


punching the holes
114881376_eab401f4e1.jpg

114881381_5beeb787bf.jpg


and finally the stiching
114881383_b29b40dd31.jpg


singteck
 

Longstrider

Settler
Sep 6, 2005
990
12
59
South Northants
Nice work, and the best explanation of how to get those stitches neat that I have yet seen. A picture paints a thousand words, they say. Stitch straight through the main piece, and at 45 degrees through the gusset piece. THATs where I've been going wrong. I've been trying to stitch at 45 degrees through BOTH pieces.
Thanks for that Singteck, I can have another go now and hopefully make a better job of it this time round.
 
Thanks Singtech, that solves a riddle.

My (late) father used to stitch with two threads and one needle, catching one thread in the loop of the other when through the leather:That way, the same thread remained always one the same side, while obtaining a double stitch anyway. He used a needle fixed in a hand grip, the needle's threading hole at the point side, "sewing machine style". Is your technique stronger? (it's more complicated sure).
sorry I cannot show you, I don't know what he did with the needle :( (probably lent it to somebody :nono: )
 

Seagull

Settler
Jul 16, 2004
903
108
Gåskrikki North Lincs
Wotcher, Singteck.

Cracking work there, m8. :cool:

Bet you,ve got sore finger tips after that little lot!

Just a couple of questions, if you wouldnt mind:...
Ref. the stitching photo..That thread looks pretty dry compared to what I would normally use. Mind you, I do have a very liberal hand, when it comes to beeswax , cos I am a firm believer that stitches should be rust free for years!
So... did you just give it a swift pass over the waxblock?.

Aaaaand.

What were you using as a stitching clamp?..is that a home made pony which I see in the photo?

Congrats on the "butt" technique and using straight needles.Ploddy difficult ,without first glue-ing the junction.

Blimey, the leather that I,ve ruined, trying to put bevels on ! :eek:

Well done!



Ceeg
 

singteck

Settler
Oct 15, 2005
565
6
52
Malaysia
www.flickr.com
(Longstrider)
Yes, the way you explain it is the way I did it. Hope to see your work soon.

(Ketchup)
Your (late) father used an automatic awl to stitch. I have never tried it. The method I used is called the saddle stitch. It's not really difficult once you get the hang of it.

(Seagull)
I did use beewax on the thread but usually after about 10-20 stitch, the wax have all been rubbed off on the leather. I will then apply more when i feel the need. I melt my beewax into a small jam jar.
The stiching clamp is a home made one. The same one with a plank across at the bottom. I am making a full size one at the moment. I find that the short one have lots of short coming.
I don't glue my leather together now. Used to do that, not anymore. 1 less step and that probably save me some time as well. As long as you mark your stitches properly, they usually line up for stitching.

Thank you

singteck

Disclamer: I hope I don't sound too much like an expert, I just started on this craft not long ago. Still wet behind the ears. Thank you everyone here in bushcraftUK and britishblades. I have learn a lot.
 

8thsinner

Nomad
Dec 12, 2005
395
1
44
London
Just to answer your question ketchup, using two seperate needles as is shown is stronger and more reliable.
If you want to test it get yourself two bits, stitch them together first using one needle then two, you only need about an inch of each so two two inch pieces is enough.
When your finished give them a tug, snip one line of each type of thread and pull again.....

You will see which starts to come apart sooner.
 

g4ghb

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Sep 21, 2005
4,321
246
54
Wiltshire
thats sooooo nice! :D - if only............... :eek:


continueing the stitching conversation - I use a single double stitching technique. Basically I stitched a std running stitch then 'go round the end twice' before coming back and stitching through the same holes 'from the other side' As i only need to get one needle at time through the hole it dosn't need to be so big and you only end up with 2 ends to finish rather than 4

It seems to work for me but I guess there is a good reason for using 2 needles.... anyone?
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,732
1,984
Mercia
singtek.....

All I can say mate (given you are on a visitors visa and you wouldn't be allowed to "sell"), is if you ever wanted to swap home made wine & ale for leather work, I'm only just down the road from you ;) Fantastic work


Red
 

Seagull

Settler
Jul 16, 2004
903
108
Gåskrikki North Lincs
g4ghb said:
It seems to work for me but I guess there is a good reason for using 2 needles.... anyone?

Wotcher again, G4.

I dunno , but, when working with an unglued edge, (especially when doing a wet-form,in situ) , I find that its easier to keep equal tension on the downline stitches when they,re cross-locked with the two needle technique.

If I dont do this, and just use a single needle (especially on long-ish runs), I find that I introduce a curve into the job, but, thats just my cack-handedness.

Dunno for sure about the hole size. On dry work I use the awl, one by one, on wet stuff I will Dremel the whole lot beforehand and just trust its gonna be alright.

I do like this beeswax though, you know the one? its the one they emboss with the work "beeswax" especially for burks who may just mistake it for a number 14 bus. Its a lot better than the raw stuff I used to get from ship-chandlers, in ploddy great chunks.


ATB

Ceeg
 

singteck

Settler
Oct 15, 2005
565
6
52
Malaysia
www.flickr.com
Thank you everyone for the comments.

When you use 2 needles, they are on the same string on the opposite ends. so you only have 2 ends to tie down. The photo shows 2 needles in the leather but actually you stitch with one and then the other not both at the same time. Sorry about that.

The automatic awl would be good for long length of stitching which does not need to be strong. Still would be useful to have around especially in tight places I suppose. If you have it then use it, otherwise just buy 2 needles. I think the most important thing about the needle is they should be as blunt as a brick.

When I make more maybe we can have a trade.

Will take more photoes to make a stitching tutorial on my next project if you are interested.

singteck
 

jason01

Need to contact Admin...
Oct 24, 2003
362
2
My stitching is far from beautiful but as 8th sinner said, a saddle stitch using 2 needles gives the strongest result, each stitch is locked if you do it properly. As the name imples its the trafitional technique as used in saddlery, check out Tiffers tips on BB for more details from a pro.
 

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