Is this the right stuff to buy?

[Ogri the trog]

Interesting point about the Khukri being uncomfortable - there seem to be (to me anyway) two types of handles put onto them;
The first type have hideous mushroom-looking growths, things with points tops and bottom that dig into your wrist and hurt the fingers.
The second, superior type have two opposed conical forms with a central collar, which to my mind are infinitely more comfortable to use, sit more securely in the hand and lend themselves to a more western approach to use.

Please keep us informed how things progress and good luck with it all.

ATB

Ogri the trog

 

[Cosquet]

Interesting point about the Khukri being uncomfortable - there seem to be (to me anyway) two types of handles put onto them;
The first type have hideous mushroom-looking growths, things with points tops and bottom that dig into your wrist and hurt the fingers.
The second, superior type have two opposed conical forms with a central collar, which to my mind are infinitely more comfortable to use, sit more securely in the hand and lend themselves to a more western approach to use.

Please keep us informed how things progress and good luck with it all.

ATB

Ogri the trog

Yes, I have used the ones with the "mushroom" handle"..... and the weight distribution is two weird for me (remember that I have no experience)....I have seen some solid looking ones (round handles and kitchen knife handles with a full tang) in Kathmandu but only in tourist areas (I would not trust the quality)...I have read many reviews that say they are the "ultimate tool" but I don't think they are good for inexperience people...after cutting bamboo with one for a while I got quite tired and the weight (distribution) made it difficult to keep the blade at the right angle to the wood, making it "rebound" dangerously...I love the way they look and I have seen locals use them like if they were pen knives.... so I will look for one in the future (without a mushroom handle).... but the funny thing is that people here hardly uses them at all, preferring the cheap/lighter sickles (asi) ....I have a couple of those but they don't keep their edges and it seems you need a lifetime experience to split bamboo with one, my neighbor can split a 6 foot piece of thick bamboo in under a minute but he has been using this tool since he could hold one, in my case I just keep getting it stuck......

Here in Nepal handles are a very important issue, In monsoon time, sweat literally pours out of the palms of you hands and into your eyes.... based on reviews...I choose the Mora BF and the Condor Bolo because the grip is real good (apart from their overall quality) In the bolo case some reviews complain that the handle is a bit too thick but I have big hands..... I'd love to hear any (simple) advise in how to make handles even "grippier" if that is a word......

 

[Shinken]

The list looks good to me, i'd also get a cheaper hatchet or small maul if all your doing with axe is splitting small stuff.

 

[sunndog]

i'v seen grip tape for tennis rackets (spelling?) used to make handles grippier.......try not to grip tools too hard though mate, its a sure way to tire yourself out quick

 

[mrcharly]

The list looks good to me, i'd also get a cheaper hatchet or small maul if all your doing with axe is splitting small stuff.

I agree. A standard axe will do just fine. If your friend is coming out from australia there shouldn't be a problem getting hold of a half-decent axe for not a lot of money.

 

[Bluffer]

A parang is deffo your best bet for the bamboo, the best one I've seen recently (and grippiest) is Ben Orfords and it appears sold out http://www.benorford.com/KnivesAvailableNow.aspx

Cheaper options include the MOD issue jungle knife (Nowill) http://www.lawranceordnance.com/the_q_store/knives_jadams/jungle_knife.php or the Condor parang http://www.thebushcraftstore.co.uk/condor-village-parang-machete-12849-p.asp (which may require some file-work to reprofile the edge).

 

[Woodcutter2]

I would definitely second/third the above advice and invest in a decent size bench stone to keep your new tools sharp. The DMT duosharp is a good double sided diamond stone which would look after most of your sharpening needs, you can make a strop easily yourself and maybe consider the DMT Diafold double sided stones to keep in your pocket to touch the edges up when you are further afield. Also they are light in weight for you friend to pack.

 

[Fraxinus]

May I suggest your friend brings a good quality (nicholson) 2nd cut flat file (8 or 10 inch + handle) to aid sharpening your axe and machete of choice. You will end up chipping them at some point and it will take ages to re-sharpen either with just the DC4.
The GB SFA is a good axe, I have used mine for spoon carving, splitting firewood, making chestnut studs for wattle and daub walls and trimming a replacement curved oak brace in a circa 1500 farmhouse.
Adding grip to a wooden handle can be achieved by filing or carving cross hatched grooves, like the knurling you find on some thumb screws/tool adjusters. Sunndog is correct on the gripping too tightly aspect, it causes fatigue in your hand that can lead to accidents (injury to you or damage to the tool) the big rule with cutting tools is to let the weight of the tool do most of the work, your hands are just there to guide direction.
Rob.

 

[Shinken]

Good advice there regarding the sharpening stone.

 

[sunndog]

A parang is deffo your best bet for the bamboo, the best one I've seen recently (and grippiest) is Ben Orfords and it appears sold out http://www.benorford.com/KnivesAvailableNow.aspx

wow!, thats some price for a parang. you'd be able to get a fair few condor village parang's for that kinda cheese
or for a handmade job dorsetwoodlandblades parang for £100 less

 

[Quixoticgeek]

The only thing I would add to your list if you are getting a silky or even the bahco laplander: Get a big box of plasters. These saws take no prisoners. They will happily cut through human flesh as they will through wood. I took the end off a finger recently when I caught it with a laplander. Nothing too serious, the cut is so clean it hasn't even scared, but it did produce a lot of blood.

Julia

 

[Cosquet]

Thank you every one. My friend has changed her plans and she needed to get my stuff today...... so I have gone with the original list plus a bigger bench-stone. In a couple of months someone will be bringing me a few saw blades (I'll learn to make the handle) and a point file to make the Silky sharper if it blunts. Your comments have been for the most part very useful and instructive and I will not hesitate on asking again...and again.....
Now if I may i would like to be the one who gives some advise (and it is not for all of you):
When recommending something to another person it is important to have a basis for your recommendation and to share in a way that is understandable to the person you are talking to..... saying "Get this knife! or.... that saw sucks! this one is better"...well...is near dam useless as has no reasons behind it. I know it can be boring to read long threads but remember that no one is forcing you to do so, or to answer to one. I know next to nothing about bushcraft and two days ago I did not know what a froe was..... but I have been a teacher for many years and I know that only when we see what others see, we can teach them something. In a forum, to do that, we must read what everyone has written....... telling me to buy a 300 pounds machete show that this has not happened..... again, there's no need to respond if you haven't read the question..... just a (long) though...
Anyway (rant over) thank you very much again for your answers. I apologize if my English has not been perfect (it's not my first language) and like I said...... I will keep asking.........

 

[forrestdweller]

for bamboo i'd go with a saw(your silky is a GOOD choice- they have special bamboo blades availabe) and a single-beveled nata-- that's what i'm using around here

 

[Toddy]

That silky saw though has a reputation of snapping, and it's expensive.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&...vptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_3qgl5ih6ur_b
The laplander is much cheaper and much more forgiving.
£13.99 just now here
http://www.buyaparcel.com/p/bahco-s...ning-214256/?gclid=CNvtt7Kppr8CFWKWtAodMW8AvQ
I don't even sharpen mine and they're (HWMBLT has one too) still blooming good tools after over seven years use.
That's hard to beat.
I have friends who love the silky saws; I also have others who detest them. They're good saws, they're very good saws, but they are 'civilised' saws best in experienced hands.
One of my laplanders was bent almost at right angles (in someone else's care I hasten to add) it straightened out and still works. I used it to cut up some cherry branches last week.

The reason I suggested a plain blade and learning to build a bowsaw, is that if all that can be acquired has to be be brought in from a huge distance, then learn to make good use of whatever turns up, and try and keep the bulk down for whoever is bringing in the equipment.
If all you have is a blade, it doesn't matter what size it is, metric/imperial/ whatever length, it will still make an incredibly useful too.
If however you have one frame, then you're stuck unless you can acquire the correct blade.

Just my tuppence ha'penny worth.

cheers,
Toddy

 

[Jared]

I would probably take a handful of bowsaw blades too. (And a bag of hardware, wing nuts & bolts or key rings).

They are pretty cheap & light... and safer to use with other people close by.

 

[Cosquet]

The reason I suggested a plain blade and learning to build a bowsaw, is that if all that can be acquired has to be be brought in from a huge distance, then learn to make good use of whatever turns up, and try and keep the bulk down for whoever is bringing in the equipment.
If all you have is a blade, it doesn't matter what size it is, metric/imperial/ whatever length, it will still make an incredibly useful too.
If however you have one frame, then you're stuck unless you can acquire the correct blade.

Just my tuppence ha'penny worth.

cheers,
Toddy

You convinced me the first time...I'm getting some blades in a couple of months! The Silky has now been ordered..... if it breaks on me I'll be sure to get the laplander next..... thanks

 

[Toddy]

If you can get hold of a framed bowsaw, and know that you will be able to get replacement blades when needed, then it's a truly excellent tool....but it does rather sound as though you are dependant on someone else acquiring such things for you.
Jared's advice on an assortment of wingnuts, etc., is very sound

What do the locals use to oil/clean tools ? I find WD40 hard to beat, but then I can buy it very, very cheaply here and it's available in many places.
Keeping the gunk of plant debris, etc., off tools, in any damp, really does stop them rusting.
I'm pretty sure that WD40 isn't organic and isn't non toxic though

What will you use to join the bamboo together ?

cheers,
Toddy

 

[Cosquet]

Wd40 will be best to get here......with bamboo so far I have made (with a Swiss Army knife, a couple of Chinese hammers, a local sickle and some pieces of wood to use as hammers when the "real" hammers broke)) a bed and some fencing....I joined the bamboo with coconut rope (it's very cheap and widely available) for the base of the bed I used cuts to make the pieces fit together (I know there's some word for that)....so far so good....
The locals I know hardly take care of their tools...but they use them every single day.....

 

[santaman2000]

For cleaning, WD40, brake cleaner, kerosene (paraffin) all work well. But only the WD40 or an oil will protect from rust (which shouldn't be a problem anyway if you're actually using the tools)

 

[Cosquet]

For cleaning, WD40, brake cleaner, kerosene (paraffin) all work well. But only the WD40 or an oil will protect from rust (which shouldn't be a problem anyway if you're actually using the tools)

.....I used to tell my students: "Your brain will only rust if you don't use it, if you do....it will only get old...and that is a good thing"..... I'm guessing it is the same with any tool.....