I need some help for my shed.

[humdrum_hostage]

I have a metal shed/garage. When I laid the concrete base I ended up with a slight dip in the middle on one side. So the shed is erected square and true and on three sides it sits nicely on the base. Down one side of 5 metres, the front and the back touch the base but about 2 metres in the middle it doesn't. The biggest gap in the middle is about 15-20mm.

What is the best thing to fill the gap? I think it's too much to use silicone and wasn't sure expanding foam was the best idea? Or should I fix some sort of plastic strip on the inside and silicone it?

It's just to stop the rain running in. Round the other sides I just run a bead of silicone between the metal frame and the concrete.

Thanks in advance

Chris.

 

[Mesquite]

Personally I'd grout it with mortar.

That will provide a stronger support than silicone or expanding foam and look better as well.

 

[Fraxinus]

If possible mortar from outside let it set well then a squirt of foam inside. You could then use a self levelling screed to finish off.
In the workshop I installed up the farm the self levelling screed was topped with a two pack resin sealer then two pack paint with an aggregate in it (like silver sand) acts as a hard wearing DPM.
Not a cheap system but the owner has a flooring company and let me raid his stockroom .
Rob.

 

[Janne]

Would it still be posdible to do a modification to the base? Unbolt the shed?
I would recommend you do a one or two brick high wall base. Easy to get perfectly level.

 

[Dogoak]

Personally I'd grout it with mortar.

That will provide a stronger support than silicone or expanding foam and look better as well.

Yep, me too.

 

[janso]

As above mortar screed to ffl OR use a screed to even up existing floor so you could put a dpc and pallet wood floor down for winter months..?


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[Janne]

As above mortar screed to ffl OR use a screed to even up existing floor so you could put a dpc and pallet wood floor down for winter months..?


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Super idea. And to prevent water coming in a collar of bricks is not bad. Silicone and expanding foam will make it look a bit DIY.

 

[humdrum_hostage]

Structurally the shed is sound. I have anchor bolts in all 4 corners and 2 of the three down the side, just missing the centre one. The dip is no problem to the performance of the inside. I just wanted to fill the gap to stop the wind, rain and rodents out. I didn't want to raise the shed on bricks as the doors are swinging doors, not up and over so that will be high off the ground or create a step into the shed.
The outside is a square corrugated shape so I cant put anything on the outside.

 

[crosslandkelly]

Just point up the gap with a 4 to 1 mix sharp sand and cement. job done.

 

[Fraxinus]

Structurally the shed is sound. I have anchor bolts in all 4 corners and 2 of the three down the side, just missing the centre one. The dip is no problem to the performance of the inside. I just wanted to fill the gap to stop the wind, rain and rodents out. I didn't want to raise the shed on bricks as the doors are swinging doors, not up and over so that will be high off the ground or create a step into the shed.
The outside is a square corrugated shape so I cant put anything on the outside.

Okay, can you get some pieces of slate that you can coat in a fine mortar mix (3 to 1 silver sand to cement) and slide/poke them in place from the inside? Slate is a good water barrier and used as a shim under heavy beams so installing the middle bolt would be fine after this has set. Slate has been used as a DPC and roofing material for donkeys years and a bearing material under timber and steel almost as long.
Hope you get it all sorted mate.

Rob.

 

[humdrum_hostage]

The next issue is, I want to line it to stop the condensation. Especially on the roof to stop it dripping on stuff and preferably the sides to make it warmer in the winter.
Someone said polystyrene tiles and glue them on. Anyone done this?

The internal walls have upright box section and a horizontal box section in the middle. The inside of the roof has three supports from front to back, one in the middle and one each side, half way down the roof. All panels are a square corrugated pattern so not completely flat.

 

[crosslandkelly]

An air vent either end should stop the condensation, then you could line the whole shed in the insulation of your choice.

http://www.diy.com/departments/celotex-tb4000-insulation-board-2400mm-1200mm-25mm/307367_BQ.prd

 

[Robson Valley]

Air vents might be a help but you will need to heat and dry the incoming air. If it's moisture laden, ther's no improvement.

Insulate the roof, some sort of vapor barier and THEN, keep the indoor shed air warm enough so that humidity
will not condense against a colder ceiling surface.

Same as the interior of any well built Canadian house. Condensation is never an issue for me.

 

[sunndog]

Could always line it with ply. It will cut condensation add a bit of warmth and give you something to screw to for shelves, hooks, or whatever

I'v got an 8x6 wooden shed and i heat that with a coleman petrol lantern in winter. You only need it on for a few minutes out of an hour....or just making a brew on a gas stove keeps the chill off

 

[Robson Valley]

Insulation will make it easier, faster and cheaper to get the inner surface of the shed warmed up so there's no cold surface for condensation.
Sunndog shows that there isn't much to do to be effective.

Plywood would be fast and effective.
Insulation against the outer skin of the shed.
Plastic vapor barrier SEALED over top of that.
Inner shed surface.
My whole house is built like that.

 

[Herbalist1]

Yeah, metal sheds are a b***er for condensation. Crosslandkelly is spot on, you'll need air vents. If you try and insulate without vents, unless you do a very good job (look online to see what some people use to insulate shipping containers!), you'll just get condensation between the metal structure and the insulation. You don't want that as you'll get mould growing and also trapped moisture will cause corrosion of the structure. If you do fit vents, make sure to line them with fine mesh - wasps love nesting in even quite small cavities which is a pain in itself but they will also chew through some materials you might use as insulation. Holes in your insulation + Workshop full of wasps = not much fun!
Best of luck and hope you enjoy your workshop - it will be worth the work you put in.

 

[Robson Valley]

The insulation is useless and a total waste of money unless you cover it with a vapor barrier which is sealed, air tight.
6 mil poly is entirely adequate and sounds like you won't need more than a few yards of it at most.

I get to deal with temperature differences of -30C on the outside face of my walls and +20C on the inside face which is 6" away.
There is no condensation. The vapor barrier seals the insulation cavity.
Then in the summer, the hottest outside in the shade was +47C. The inside was +27C.
It works both ways, even to keep the heat out.

 

[sunndog]

i'd reccomend something on the floor too. Concrete is hard on the joints and you really dont want to drop a nice wood chisel on a concrete floor.
In my workshop i have a 6x6' 3/4" heavy rubber mat in front of the bench. Really kind on me feet and knees and has saved a good few cutting tools from heart breaking blade chips

Warmer in winter too.

 

[crosslandkelly]

i'd reccomend something on the floor too. Concrete is hard on the joints and you really dont want to drop a nice wood chisel on a concrete floor.
In my workshop i have a 6x6' 3/4" heavy rubber mat in front of the bench. Really kind on me feet and knees and has saved a good few cutting tools from heart breaking blade chips

Warmer in winter too.

25mm polystyrene covered with ply, works well too.

 

[Robson Valley]

Good ideas for flooringI should remember. I mostly sit to do wood carving so a rolling drafting stool ( remember what those are?) is pure comfort.
Pretty much have to keep my carving tools out of sight. The cat jumps up from the floor and I don't want her landing in a sea of sharp edges.