I need some help for my shed.

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mrcharly

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 25, 2011
3,257
44
North Yorkshire, UK
I wouldn't use polystyrene in a working shed, it gives off terrible fumes if it smoulders.

The silver bubble-wrap insulation is cheap as chips and easy to place, you can place this over the the inside of the shed and then line with thin ply.

If it is a metal shed then lining out isn't as easy as with a wooden shed. Best technique might be to fasten battens to the shed structural members than fasten the lining to the battens. If you do this, put the silver insulation over the top of the battening, just tack in place (you can use a stapler). That leaves a nice air gap as well.

Mark on your ply where the battens run, you'll want to know in future so you can easily fasten in hooks and things.
 

Fraxinus

Settler
Oct 26, 2008
935
31
Canterbury
http://www.recticelinsulation.co.uk/

Foil faced expanded foam sheets ( not polystyrene ) acts as both vapour barrier and insulation. There are other makes but we used this on the farm workshops new roof last year and got it from a local Jewson branch. Can be glued in place with construction adhesive if needed and reflects light quite well.

Rob.
 

Janne

Sent off - Not allowed to play
Feb 10, 2016
12,330
2,294
Grand Cayman, Norway, Sweden
I would not make it too complicated and too humidity tight, as the concrete has no water/humidity barrier.

Would it not be sufficient for you to install an outdoor grade electric Infra Red heating element, maybe above the work place?
I have done that in my outdoor fish cleaning station in Arctic Norway. Works fantastic, nice and cosy, despite the station only having one side half protected, the other three completely open, and only having a metal roof.
 

Dogoak

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 24, 2009
2,289
287
Cairngorms
You should leave an air gap between the insulation and the roof, 50mm? IIRC.

For good prices on insulation try Seconds&co
 

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