How not to light a bow drill fire

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Cyclingrelf

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Jul 15, 2005
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Penzance, Cornwall
I was attempting to burn in a drill today (I'm off work with nasty tummy, but bored!!) and was contemplating all the mistakes I've made so far as a newbie fire-lighter. I'd find it really useful if you could all post mistakes you've made and why they were a problem, as I'm sure there's loads I've still got to learn!
If others would find it useful too, then I could collate it all in a doc and make it available to the forum, let me know if you'd be interested? I know nothing beats experience, but at least then there'd be a checklist to refer to when trying to trouble shoot the latest non-starter!!

I'll go first with all the mistakes I've made so far...

Problem: Used a bow that was a little bit bendy
Why it didn't work: When I got up speed with drilling, the bow started to bend on the push stroke so that the string lost tension and slipped instead of turning the drill.
Solution Use a bow that has very little or no bendiness.

Problem: Used some cheap pretend-paracord that turned out to be a bit stretchy
Why it didn't work: The cord kept stretching and would start slipping just at the vital moment when I should have been drilling harder, so I'd have to stop and tighten the cord and everything would go cold again.
Solution Use cord that has very little stretch in it

Problem: Used an old drill that had become too short (about 11cm) through use
Why it didn't work: Because the drill was so short, it came lower on my leg, so it was more difficult to lean body weight on it to keep up the pressure. This meant I was unable to make fire with a set-up that had previously been working, so it took me ages to figure out what was wrong!!!
Solution Use a drill that is long enough to be able to lean some body weight on it - in my case, that's at least 16cm, but for larger folk it would probably need to be longer.

Problem: The hearth end of the drill was all polished and the bearing end kept burning in to the bearing
Why it didn't work: In this case, there was more friction at the bearing end because it was rougher than the hearth end.
Solution I had to re-cut the point on the hearth end of the drill and use lots of green stuff at the bearing to try and get the drill back into shape - which was successful, but hard work!

Problem: Damp tinder
Why it didn't work: The coal went out instantly, even though the tinder was only slightly damp and I had thought I might be able to get away with it
Solution Find some dry tinder, or wait until some has dried out in your pockets. Dead bracken dries out very quickly as soon as it has any sun on it, and makes really good tinder. In fact, I did manage to create fire with some bracken that wasn't totally bone dry once.
 
Cyclingrelf said:
Problem: The hearth end of the drill was all polished and the bearing end kept burning in to the bearing
Why it didn't work: In this case, there was more friction at the bearing end because it was rougher than the hearth end.
Solution I had to re-cut the point on the hearth end of the drill and use lots of green stuff at the bearing to try and get the drill back into shape - which was successful, but hard work!

This point by Cyclingrelf is very good...

In the very short time that I've been doing fire by friction..as per Falling Rain's excellent instruction....I always re point the baring end of my spindle and i always re cut the heath end thus returning a slightly notched or ridged end to create more friction at the heath end and less at hte bearing end

If you rush into it with out preparation then you will only end in frustration (or a very hot palm on your hand.
 
One of the main reasons I think I was failing before Falling Rains tutition (is there an echo in here?) is because I was too eager to see the smoke rising.
This meant that I hadn't prepared enough or not to the necessary quality to succeed.
Now I think of it as a numbers game, you have to stop and analyse every step, from cutting the first piece of wood to the time that you achieve your ember -
Do everything you can to improve the percentage chance of success -

Good Bow
Good cord correctly tied
Dry spindle well shaped
Dry hearth of suitable wood, smooth sided notch
Dry ember pan
An ember sustainer if you think you need it
Tinder dry and ready to recieve the ember, kindling ready to hand.
Bearing block well lubricated (spittle)
Check it all again before you go for the coal, cos if something is wrong, its a lot of effort to waste finding out.

It wasn't until I had been taught how to do it, that the tutorials all over the web started to make sense :confused:

ATB

Ogri the trog
 
Problem: Not using the whole bow
Why it didn't work: Because there are more changes of direction, there are not as long sustained spins of the drill
Solution: Use the whole bow

Also, keeping the drill straight, and changing speeds throughout the process.

And one problem you've already mentioned in part:

Problem: Polished drill/hearth
Why it didn't work: Not enough friction
Solution: Roughen up with a knife
 
Hey - thanks everyone for adding to this. I've just remembered another one (apart from the one about not trying to light a fire by friction when you've got flu, because it makes you dizzy, in case anyone was wondering! :rolleyes: )

Problem: I used some quite thick cord (about 7mm diameter) and the clove hitch attaching it to the bow at one end was slipping slightly
Why it didn't work: The drill would work when I just started the bowing, then the string gradually worked itself loose and started to slip on the drill instead of turning it
Solution: Put an extra half-hitch to stop the knot from slipping. It also seems to help using thinner cord, such as paracord

Incidentally, looking at Ogri's post about dry hearth and dry spindle, I had a think about these and reckoned that the friction ought to dry them out to some extent anyway. So I tried dipping my hearth and drill in a bucket of water before lighting a fire, and still successfully obtained a coal. I think the wood underneath the water would still have been fairly dry, as I didn't soak it in the bucket, just dunked everything thoroughly, so it only simulates a light shower. But still worth knowing.
 

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