How much material do I need.

[jamesdevine]

Hi All,

I have been looking into getting a ventile smock for sometime now but I can't afford the prices especial as I have partiucular idea of what I want it too look like.

So obviuosly my only choice is to make it myself. I have access to a sewing machine and someone that can show me how too use it as well as help(mammys are great ), but how can I work out how much material I need to buy?

I am no good at math so an idiots guide is needed. Thanks

James

PS any other tips or advice would be helpful.

 

[leon-1]

James, a lot depends on the width of the material you are buying.

Try dropping Neil1 or greg2935 a PM as they have both made jackets in ventile.

Off the tope of my head I would of said between 3 and 4 meters would do you, but that is a rough guess and could be very wrong if the width isn't as large as I am thinking of.

What grade of ventile will you be using and where from (if you don't mind me asking), this will tell me the width. Also is the jacket single or double layer.

If you make it Double layer along the lines of a SAS windproof then this will cut down the amount of material required (only doubled on high wear areas and weathered areas like the head shoulders and elbows).

I hope this is of use to you

 

[scruff]

just a few thoughts i had:

how about getting some really cheap fabric and making a mock-up?

you can get some really cheap stuff at around a £1 a metre and work it out.

the benefit here is u can practice your sewing skills so as not to waste any of that expensive ventile making mistakes (think about the size of the needle you use, dont want to be putting too big a hole in the fabric - maybe manufacturer could give u advice???) and the thread too....oh and stitch length), as well as working out how much u'll need...

...plus u'll be able to see how ur design works and at the end have a light jacket for summer maybe?

good luck with it hope it turns out how u want it.

 

[jamesdevine]

Thanks for the advice guys.

The only place I have looked for it so far is Pointnorth and the website states the width of the fabric as 150cm which I imagined to be wide enough. I had thought of doubling up in high wear areas as you suggested and the the pockets are limited but I going to use ventile in them as well the are doubled up.

I thinking along the lines of a mx between a snowsled classic and a west wind windtop. Hand warmer pockets(maybe slightly higher to be used when wearing a pack with a hip belt) a long long zip(as I wear glass i need to be able to pull it over my head with out taking them off) and to pockets on each upper arm for compass, torch, snack, little gem book.

Scruff thanks for the advice about getting a cheaper fabric to test out first funnily I had not thought of that and it makes so much sense. certainly will help with the pockets I have in mind.

I'm in the city this weekend so will have a look in the fabric shops and see what I can find.

Thanks again.
James

 

[match]

I'd recommend you PM Toddy - she's got some great advice on making these kinds of things, and can probably help you figure out exactly what material you need

 

[leon-1]

James, one thing to be aware of is that ventile is very dense, it does not sew quite the same as other materials (it can put up a lot of resistance). As I said have a word with Neil1 and Greg.

If you can find one of the old issue type cagouls (sp) that's falling apart in a surplus, buy it, take it apart at home and use it as a template. (lay it out on the floor no more than 1.5metres in width and then measure the length of the pieces layed out on the floor, if you need to double them up in places you can do this just by moving the required bits down below your other peices). This will also give you a rough pattern to work from.

 

[jamesdevine]

Thanks Leon.

I sure I should be able to get some Gaberdine to try out a few of my ideas as some of the stores seconds that are cheap enough I reckoned this was close ventile at least to sew.

I also have a smock that I used in an out of work it's not breathable and so not much use if you have to get active (but handy standing waiting for a train). I was planning on using this a template as it fit just right even with a fleece under it. (surplus stores are tin on the ground here I'm afraid).

Thanks for the help and I will be looking for more I am sure as I go along.

I keep you all posted.


James

James

 

[Neil1]

James,
If your fabric is 150cm wide you will need about 3.5 metres, seconds grade fabric ic is best, most flaws are purely cosmetic.
I used an old arctic smock as a pattern for two reasons: first the pattern is probably the most comfortable and practicle I have ever used, second de-constructing a smock is a very good way to learn how they are made.
I modified the original to suit my own taste, different pockets and a hood that is more functional for my own needs (but I have a year or twos experience in this area).
Ventile is difficult to sew as it is very dense, good polyester thread and a good jeans needle (size 16 I think ) is your best bet.
If you are not sure practise on any old fabric, especially if you are new to this.
Start touring the outdoor shops and looking very hard at how stuff is made, this is applicable wether it is a jacket, a sleeping bag or a bergen!
Best of luck my freind, I wish you had made yourself know at WG I had most of this gear with me and you could have had a look.
Any problems give me a PM.
Neil

 

[ChrisKavanaugh]

Your bespoke ventile can be tailored like a Saville Row suit and you don't need cheap material or a dismantled smock for a dry run. Get some paper tailors use and make up your pattern.

 

[jamesdevine]

Thanks Neil for advice. We did actual talk but you were a little busy and so I left you too it. The next time saw was Sunday and you seemed to be on the way so Next year and we can compare notes. I really would have loved to have seen your swedish pack as I have made several attempts to get it right but it's not perfect yet I'll keep working on it do.

Chris I am been thing about doing just before I get started and I worked out what I want it seem an easier way to cut the fabric correctly at least. My mam was a seamstess in a previous life and made most of our cloths when we were kids.

Are there any alternative fabric that I might look at?

James

 

[running bare]

standard width of material bought off the roll is 60". don't forget that material will stretch across the width of the roll more so than thru the length . so you will have to orientate your panels accordingly.and if you make a paper mock up before hand you can fit in the pocket flaps,collar etc. into the offcut areas to reduce material requirement. hope this is of some use to you .
tom

 

[jamesdevine]

No Thats all good adivce and thank you. I hope buy Christmas to have started at least and I am getting a lot of help. It's amazing that not too long ago many of folk around here still made alot of there on clothing and of course repaired all of it instead of replaceing so my project has sparked a little bit of nostalgic remonisence.

Thanks and I keep you all posted.

James

 

[innocent bystander]

I just got an email from point north saying the following :

"I am very sorry but we no longer have any Olive ventile in stock and there are no new stocks coming in, we only have Navy."

Where to next then ?