How hard is it to turn a 2" auger?

[Khumbu8000]

I am considering getting a 2" scotch eyed auger but am concerned it might be too hard to turn. I have been just managing a 1 1/4" on a brace, through Beech. But i have quite a few more holes as I am making some benches and raised chopping blocks at school for our bushcraft area.

do I need 2" and are they super hard work to manoeuvre . Cheers

 

[ozzy1977]

They are quite hard work even when super sharp. Is the wood green or seasoned?

 

[mr dazzler]

What condition is the lead screw in? If its worn or damaged, then you have an imediate disadvantage, you will not have enough pulling power, the screw may well stop drawing the wing tips into the wood, especially in beech which isnt a fibrous wood, and simply spin freely in its own cone shaped hole, getting you nowhere fast. Assuming the bit IS in good condition and as Ozzy said, IS sharp, then I would sudgest using an extra long tommy bar and have yourself and an assistant to share the work. I can manage 1 1/4 inch OK with a standard brace, although I over did it a few years ago drilling something like 120 3 inch deep ones in 2 days for mortices, ended up wit tennis elbow.....but 2 inch is a "bit" much (sorry) The good thing with the long augers is they are far easier to sight up for the correct angles, harder to drift off as it is with a brace and bit. By the way what sweep does your brace have? I have one somehwere with a 7 inch sweep (ie creates a 14 inch circle as its used) gives more power torque than a standard one)
Of course your other option would be to chop out square tapered mortices instead, that only needs a small pilot hole....just a thought
good luck with your project

 

[crosslandkelly]

How large is the eye of the auger, in theory a long handle through the eye will make the turning easier, in practice, you could damage the auger. Make sure it is good and sharp.

 

[fishfish]

i have a 150 year old one in that size,sharpened and with a 3 foot hadle its still hard work but it does the job.

 

[VaughnT]

Depending on how large the eye is, you might be better off with a pipe for a handle rather than a piece of wood.

Also, it's important to note that a lot of old augers have had the wings dressed on the outside in the thought that it helps sharpen the cutting edge. In actuality, this makes the cutting portion smaller in diameter than the rest of the screw, and you end up with serious friction as you progress down into the bore. Even by rusting, you can loose a millimeter of diameter because the wings are so thin. Soap or wax will make a decent lubricant to minimize friction, regardless.

Ol' Sneelock has some good stuff on diagnosing and repairing auger bits......

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FO5ZRy_dnNM

 

[Khumbu8000]

Starting to get seasoned.
I will look into the square tapered mortice idea, any links?

thanks for the help