house woodburner stove ,new to me !

[Gill]

I was away yesterday with my better half to see about buying and installing a woodburner into a single storey extension thats built onto my house ,anyway i thought there would be nothing simpler pick a stove a couple of meter of flue and install but i was told building regs say there has to be a minimum of 4.5 metres of flue on top of the stove to get the propper draw and so there would be no carbon monoxide coming into the house :yikes: i thought is this correct so i went to another stove supplier and was told the same , so basically if i went ahead the flue pipe would need to be higher than the original building but the flue would need to be unsupported due to the position of where i would want the stove(ie it would not be next to the original wall) .the flue pipe itself would be £2000:yikes: anyway this led me to think about the stove i have for my tipi n shed there is nowhere near 4.5 mteres on top so are they safe .....

 

[ged]

... a woodburner into a single storey extension ... i was told building regs say there has to be a minimum of 4.5 metres of flue on top of the stove ... the flue pipe itself would be £2000 ... led me to think about the stove i have for my tipi n shed there is nowhere near 4.5 mteres on top so are they safe .....

Building regs in this area have tightened a lot recently. I think that's a good thing. It's easy in these days of sealed unit double glazing to make a house practically airtight, and if your stove can't draw air into the building it can kill you. Stainless flue pipe is expensive. Stainless double walled flue pipe is very expensive. You need to be prepared for a flue to cost more than the stove, sometimes a lot more. Having said that a wood burner will save you money in the long run and to my way of thinking nothing makes a room cosier, so to me it would be worth it just for that even if it wouldn't save any money.

Your tipi and your shed aren't likely to be sealed quite to the same extent so I don't think you need to be unduly concerned, but you do need to be concerned. The stove probably won't be a clean-burning type, so you can probably see the exhaust gases easily. If you have no trouble getting smoke to exit via the chimney you're probably all right, but don't try to seal the shed to stop draughts and make it warmer or you could get into trouble. A carbon monoxide alarm is the best bet, there's one not ten feet from me as I write this, and the stove is nice and hot.

 

[Shewie]

Only one solution Gill, ya gotta dig down buddy

 

[forestwalker]

so basically if i went ahead the flue pipe would need to be higher than the original building but the flue would need to be unsupported due to the position of where i would want the stove(ie it would not be next to the original wall) [/qoute]

The ones I've seen that are "free" have metal rods or wires supporting them. And remember that the chimney-sweep needs to be able to access it in order to clean it (here that would be anything from every three years to thrice yearly depending on use level, no idea for the UK). Soot fires can be exiting, and even set fire to the house.

 

[forestwalker]

And one more thing. It is not just the matter of cutting a hole in your ceiling and roof. There needs to be a space with no flamable materials around the flue, and presumably there needs to be an inspection (or your insurance company will laught evilly in your face if your house burns down).

 

[filcon]

Gill try the Backwoodsman, http://www.backwoodsman-stoves.co.uk/TOPICS/CHIMNEY_THEORY/chim11.html.

phil

 

[wingstoo]

Are there ventilation requirements with a stove?

Building Regualation England and Wales Section J is a guidance document, which guides in how to safely install your stoves. This document recommends recommends ventilation via a permanently open vent of 300mm2/kW for the first 5kW of rated output and 850mm2/kW thereafter.

Ventilation by flue system ideally should be 4.5 mtrs ground to cowl. Only one appliance per chimney shaft.

http://www.woodburningstoveslimited.com/index.php?action=cms.Ventilation

A damper will set you back about £45, then pop a 1mtr length of Vitreous enamelled pipe on the top (£40) to give you a head start, then another 3 mtrs of stainless steel twin wall insulated flue will set you back about £100/mtr

http://www.firesonline.co.uk/acatalog/125mm_Twin_Wall_Flue_Pipe.html

So thats about £400 so far, a few ancillaries, say another £200, that's "only" £600;

So the extra £1400 must include Admin charges

Wings

 

[wingstoo]

Or go to Ebay

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/STAINLESS-STE...FireplacesMantelpieces_RL&hash=item255eee109a

hERE ARE 6 LENGTHS OF 5" TWINWALL STAINLESS STEEL FLUE 7" EXTERNAL DIAMETER. THIS HASN'T SEEN MUCH USE BUT THERE ARE A FEW SMALL DINTS AND SOME SCRATCHS TWIST/LOCK JOINTS ARE XCELLENT AND NO SEALANT OR FIRE CEMENT. THE 2 PAINTED LENGTHS ARE IN FAIR CONDITION, THE PAINTED HAT IS IN GOOD CONDITION. I THINK I HAVE A LEAD SLATE FOR 30 DEGREE PITCH WHICH NEEDS A BIT OF TLC. IDEAL FOR INSTALLING WOODBURNING STOVE WITH 4 OR 5" FLUE. BECAUSE OF BULK AND WEIGHT I DON'T WANT TO SEND BY CARRIER. COLLECTION FROM NORTH WALES . I TRAVEL TO SHREWSBURY AND MANCHESTER REGULARLY AND COULD DELIVER BY ARRANGMENT

THE PIPES ARE 75CM LONG CONDITION IS GOOD BUT NOT PRISTINE! THERE ARE NO CLIPS OR BRACKETS BUT AVAILABLE FROM ONLINE SUPPLIERS. HAPPY TO ANSWER QUESTIONS BUT CAN'T GIVE TECHNICAL ADVICE ABOUT INSTALLATION!