horn bending jig

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Diving Duck

Member
Oct 2, 2013
39
0
South Wales
Mine is a back injury that means I have to "lever" myself up and support my weight rather than balance (when it plays up). I normally use something in a Derby style handle, but fancy something a little nicer. A market stick style would work (on a 36" shaft), but would need a fairly wide curve - like a traditional bentwood walking stick. I've looked for a while but never found anything suitable. A cut down crook is just too narrow in the curve :(
I think you'll need a one piece walking stick, due to the method of fixing handle to stick [threaded steel rod & epoxy resin] would only take your body weight for a matter of time before it broke.
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,732
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Mercia
You may well be right. My Derby style sticks have a shaped wooden handle attached in some fashion though...?
 
N

Nomad

Guest
The robustness of any such join is a function of the materials used, and their dimensions, in the stressed area. Choose the right materials, and make the bits of the minimum required size for the applied forces, and it will work.

The metal joiners here...

http://www.highlandhorn.com/

..appear to have M8 threaded rod inners, and I would estimate M12 outers (tapped M8 on the inside). Assuming the metal parts aren't going to break first, then it's a question of how much of the wood and horn is left after space has been made for the joiner. How is the metal fitted? Is the horn and wood drilled and tapped M12, or is it a case of drilling a 12mm clearance hole and filling the space with epoxy?
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
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I've made a few sticks in my time - its not drilled and tapped - its epoxied in as you say.

Wish I could find someone who could make what I want....but its a challenge for sure!
 
N

Nomad

Guest
Is there any reason for it not to be drilled and tapped? (With epoxy smeared on when the bits are screwed together.)

A decent hardwood should be okay if the thread is reasonably coarse (say, M8). I don't know what the structure of the horn is like on the inside.
 

Macaroon

A bemused & bewildered
Jan 5, 2013
7,214
367
73
SE Wales
When I've been asked to make a stick such as BR describes, I've used one-piece steam bent Ash or Sycamour and got the bend at the handle exactly as required; it also eliminates any future problems with joints in a stick that needs to be weight bearing. This method also means the stick will be appreciably lighter - I use a Sycamour one piece "open crook" type myself when my knee is bad and the other advantage I get from this is the tremendous amount of spring in the stick gives a good deal of mechanical advantage that helps greatly when I need to walk any distance.

The one I use is not here at the moment, I'll get a pic up tomorrow........................
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,732
1,984
Mercia
Something like a crook joejoe but with a wider curve so that I can get my hand inside and grip it as a proper walking stick. Obviously it would need to be shorter than a normal crook. I fancied something dark - buffalo on blackthorn or the like.
 

Steve13

Native
May 24, 2008
1,413
0
Bolton
Something like a crook joejoe but with a wider curve so that I can get my hand inside and grip it as a proper walking stick. Obviously it would need to be shorter than a normal crook. I fancied something dark - buffalo on blackthorn or the like.

Hi BR try Dennis Wall in Ulverston he makes some nice stuff and I think does commissions too
www:crooksandsticks.co.uk



No connection by the way just a very satisfied customer of Dennis who I met at the Patterdale Show this year
 

Diving Duck

Member
Oct 2, 2013
39
0
South Wales
Is there any reason for it not to be drilled and tapped? (With epoxy smeared on when the bits are screwed together.)
A decent hardwood should be okay if the thread is reasonably coarse (say, M8). I don't know what the structure of the horn is like on the inside.
The original peg method works fine [cutting dowel from stick, one piece] I use a fine cut Japanese saw with depth gauge to make sure of snug cut/fit, not as difficult as it sounds.
 

Diving Duck

Member
Oct 2, 2013
39
0
South Wales
Many apologies for my grumpy old man attitude :sad6:
Back to Stick making, anyone who wants to try making a Cardigan handled stick, use the template from the book mentioned, use a bench drill to cut shape, then file and sand, make note of the end elevation template [pear shaped] finish with boiled linseed oil.
 
Last edited:

Tony

White bear (Admin)
Admin
Apr 16, 2003
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www.bushcraftuk.com
Really? You're stroppy because you were prevented from selling on here on a whim which would have been unfair to every FM on here? FM's can sell, that's always been the rule. You're more than welcome to stay but keep within the rules and don't be surprised if someone acts when you don't.

Sorry the rest of you for the thread going off kilter...
 

Diving Duck

Member
Oct 2, 2013
39
0
South Wales
Many apologies for my grumpy old man attitude :sad6:
Back to Stick making, anyone who wants to try making a Cardigan handled stick, use the template from the book mentioned, use a bench drill to cut shape, then file and sand, make note of the end elevation template [pear shaped] finish with boiled linseed oil.

:bump:.......:thankyou:
 

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