HELP - I have killed my stove

  • Hey Guest, Early bird pricing on the Summer Moot (29th July - 10th August) available until April 6th, we'd love you to come. PLEASE CLICK HERE to early bird price and get more information.

Zodiak

Settler
Mar 6, 2006
664
8
Kent UK
I bought an old 2 ring Calor 2 ring burner, second hand, 10 years ago and it hasn't been serviced in all that time. The flames were staring to get a bit yellow so I thought that today was the day to sort it out.

It came apart easily enough unfortunately I discoverd a few things I didn't expect and I am not sure about the best way to re-assemble it so I was hoping that somebody here could help, especially as I need it next week end :eek: (Post note - Following comments here and from my neighbour I have almost re-assembled it but I still need help!))

cooker4s.jpg


This is the middle bit, it is covered in sticky goo, probably congealed fat :( that I am going to remove with a nail brush and hot soapy water. (Post note - I cleaned it off with Mr Muscale and a toothbrush)

The gas connects to orifice (A) through a brass screw down connector unfortunately there was a brown fibre washer round this that was probably only held in place by the congealed fat and so it fell to bits. Can I use a fibre tap washer for this? :confused: (Post note - it was gas sealant!)

There is a white fuzzy thing up inside that I guess is some kind of filter I am going to leave that there, and bung the end up while I am cleaning to keep it dry.

Orifices (B+C) didn't have seals as such so they can just get a good scrub, do I put silicon grease on these?

cooker2s.jpg


Screw pair (D+E) are rusted solid although they turn loosely in the hole and I could probably get them off but I am concerned abut the white fibrous washer round E, that’s going to be asbestos isn't it? :( and I have no idea what I would replace that with. (Post note - I left them alone)

To make matters worse there appears to be a hard washer under the burners by F and one side this was coming away as white flakes, that’s going to be asbestos too, and I have no idea if I can get away without it or can replace it. (Post note - I left them alone too)

The actual controls themselves (G) were quite sanitary, the o-rings seem happy and apart from a quick wipe down and replace the grease they can go back. Again do you recommend silicon grease or something else? :confused: maybe engine oil? :confused: (Post note - I wiped them down to remove rings of residue and re-assmebled them dry, but should I have used silicon grease?

Finally the actual jets (H) seem fine just mucky and I am sure that after a little soak in petrol and a clean out they will be fine. (Post note - I soaked them, and pricked out with a bit of wire but it was really too thin and a needle was too fat)

I have serviced stoves before but always with a manufacturer’s kit of bits, and in this case one is not available.

Ideas welcome please :eek:
 

bogflogger

Nomad
Nov 22, 2005
355
18
65
london
Seems to me that you are lucky it was only the stove you killed!

Just a couple of general points:

Your replacement Washers/Gaskets need to be appropriate for a Gas Enviroment, other types will break down/leak.

Never put Engine Oil, or any other Oil, onto 'O rings' as this makes them Deteriorate.
 

Zodiak

Settler
Mar 6, 2006
664
8
Kent UK
bogflogger said:
Seems to me that you are lucky it was only the stove you killed!.
Thanksfor the comments I am glad that I did take it apart, any of those seals could have gone at any time :(

bogflogger said:
Your replacement Washers/Gaskets need to be appropriate for a Gas Enviroment, other types will break down/leak..
I agree I suppose that it is possible that last time it was serviced somebody used the wrong stuff. :(

bogflogger said:
Never put Engine Oil, or any other Oil, onto 'O rings' as this makes them Deteriorate.
There is definatly someting slick on them, which is why I suggested silicon grease as that doesn't attack rubber. That bit doesn't get hot so it should be OK I would have thought.
 

bogflogger

Nomad
Nov 22, 2005
355
18
65
london
Yes, Silicone Grease is fine. (check the label, as theres different kinds.) You only need to avoid Petro-Chemicals.

Try your Local Plumbers Trade Counter for the Other Stuff, take all the bits with you and they should be able to sort you out.
 

Zodiak

Settler
Mar 6, 2006
664
8
Kent UK
bogflogger said:
Yes, Silicone Grease is fine. (check the label, as theres different kinds.) You only need to avoid Petro-Chemicals.

Try your Local Plumbers Trade Counter for the Other Stuff, take all the bits with you and they should be able to sort you out.
Thanks, my next door neigbour has just identified the gas inlet, it is a tapered thread designed to be gas tight but at some point sealant has been used.

He advised the same as you take it to a local plumbers and throw myself on their mercy :rolleyes:
 

Zodiak

Settler
Mar 6, 2006
664
8
Kent UK
I just re-assembled it in the garden, leaving the burner assemblies as they were, the controls wiped out and dry (no grease) and no sealant on the inlet pipe. The jets have been soaking in petrol and I ran a thin piece of wire through several times.

I lit it at the bottom of the garden and the fames are certainly back to their old size and sound right but they are too yellow. I am putting this down to being a windy night and I am certainly not bringing it indoors until the seal is sorted out :eek:

It started off with a green tinge to the flames and a shower of sparks but I am putting this down to :censored: that has been dislodged in the burner arms and the fact I wire brushed the supports above them.
 

outdoorgirl

Full Member
Sep 25, 2004
364
12
nr Minehead
Zodiak - as to the flame colour, the sparks are likely to be down to the burn off of 'extraneous particles'; a green flame colour is often associated with copper, I believe...

The yellow flame is a lack of oxygen, or the introduction of too much 'soot-making' material - see the wiki entry on flame colour here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flame - so you might need to adjust the valves somehow, do a bit more cleaning, or just keep burning until you've burned off all the muck... :)
 

Zodiak

Settler
Mar 6, 2006
664
8
Kent UK
outdoorgirl said:
Zodiak - as to the flame colour, the sparks are likely to be down to the burn off of 'extraneous particles'; a green flame colour is often associated with copper, I believe...
Thanks for the comments and I agree but I am not sure that any of it is actually copper. It must be an alloy.

outdoorgirl said:
The yellow flame is a lack of oxygen, or the introduction of too much 'soot-making' material - see the wiki entry on flame colour here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flame - so you might need to adjust the valves somehow, do a bit more cleaning, or just keep burning until you've burned off all the muck... :)
That ties up with the fact its bluer at low settings and gets more yellow as I open the valve.. hmm this suggests that the jets are producing enough gas so son't need to be cleaned again, the air holes by the jets are large and non adjustable to its probably not them, as as it is a lack of oxygen it suggests that the gas is not leaking.

I think that it must be the burner heads.. :censored: .. I really didn't want to touch them because of the asbestos washers.
 

BCUK Shop

We have a a number of knives, T-Shirts and other items for sale.

SHOP HERE