Help! Archery - bow sizing?

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weekend_warrior

Full Member
Jun 21, 2005
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I might have the oppurtunity to but a 54" hunter type recurve bow, 40# and 28", on the cheap. But having measured my arrow length (chest to outstretched finger tips + 1" = 28") is this bow gonna be suitable? Coz my "guide" says I should be getting a 66"/68" bow... confused... :confused:

Doh! it's 58" hunter, not a 54" as stated above... :rolleyes: :eek:
 

Doc

Need to contact Admin...
Nov 29, 2003
2,109
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Perthshire
Field/hunting bows are shorter than target bows. This makes them less accurate but easier to carry through the woods.

Shorter bows are also more likely to 'stack' if you have a draw length much over 28". finger pinch may be a prblem too.

If you are new to archery a longer bow would be more forgiving.

Personally I would prefer a longer bow, even for field use. 60" seems popular. My vintage Bear Tigercat is 62".

A lot of the very short bows were designed for hunting from treestands, and aren't ideal for UK use.
 

bent-stick

Settler
Aug 18, 2006
558
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71
surrey
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In genera the rule of thumb sizing stuff (68" for a 28" draw, add 2" for any 1/2" of extra draw) all apply to wood. Plastic is much more tolerant and you can get away with a much shorter bow. My scythian is only about 48" nock to nock and I draw 30+". It does look a bit scary but it works fine.

And you have to think about how much of the limb works. With a recurve you have a huge non-working slab in the middle so the limbs have to work harder. For a longbow the whole bow works.

In the woods I usually like a short bow. I have a few horsebows that I take out. You have to worry less about getting in tangled, banging the fouling the limbs on trees when you are shooting and it's easier to improvise when kneeling or other awkward stances.

The only other consideration is finger pinch. The shorter the bow the more accute the angle the arrow is going to make at the draw. I get blisters on my right index finger. I'm still working on a thumb draw. It feels like my thumb is going to get ripped out at the root ;)

The best bet is to try as many as you can.
 

Dave Budd

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Jan 8, 2006
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I got around the arrow pinch whenI was shooting compound by drawing with only my middle two fingers, leaving the index finger relaxed but in a forward pointin position. Granted it's easier to hold on two than a recurve, but the peak is a bugger to get over!

Is the thumb draw allowed in compettion these days? I haven't shot at a club for a few years (though I'm planning on getting back out there this year ;) ), but last I heard only med loose was allowed due to fears of safety?
 

Rob

Need to contact Admin...
The hunter bows are quite good for field use. I started with one and they are very fast for their weight.

You might want to see if you can hold back until you have met up with the COG guys and see what direction oyu want to go in on the bow front.

You have to start somewhere - and if the price is right but the bow is wrong, you can always pass it on to someone else.

Dave Budd - most of the traditional classes use Med Loose these days - dont ask me if it about safety or not - it was like it before I started ;)
 

bent-stick

Settler
Aug 18, 2006
558
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surrey
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Dave Budd said:
I got around the arrow pinch whenI was shooting compound by drawing with only my middle two fingers, leaving the index finger relaxed but in a forward pointin position. Granted it's easier to hold on two than a recurve, but the peak is a bugger to get over!

Is the thumb draw allowed in compettion these days? I haven't shot at a club for a few years (though I'm planning on getting back out there this year ;) ), but last I heard only med loose was allowed due to fears of safety?

Thumb release is allowed in the new NFAS Primitiive class. I think you could also shoot it in something like unlimited class with a thumb loose.
 

Dave Budd

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Jan 8, 2006
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I like the sound of the primitive class, just what I've been waiting for! Do you have the details of the primitive class? It doesn't appear on the NFAS website. that reminds me, I should rejoin soon :rolleyes:

Now all I have to do is get on with making a bow!
 

bent-stick

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Aug 18, 2006
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The definition we came up with in the end (after a years work and some amendments to allay some worries at the AGM) was:

Primitive Class
The bow must be constructed of natural materials only, preferably by the archer themselves. Combinations of wood, bamboo, horn, bone, sinew, rawhide backing, natural fabric backing, natural cable backing and other natural materials etc are allowed. Though natural glues and finishes are encouraged, synthetic glues and finishes may be used. Bow design and limb shape may be of any type (self, laminated, straight, pyramid, reflexed, deflexed, recurved etc,) but should be based upon a primitive or ancient bow type. If challenged the archer should be able to prove that their bow is based upon an ancient or primitive bow type. An ancient bow design is one used 5 hundred or more years ago, including bows that are many thousands of years old. A primitive bow may be one used today by low tech pre-industrial tribes and peoples in the far reaches of the world, though of course these may also date back thousands of years. The bow must be free of stabilisers, sights, or other features unless these can be proved to be part of the original primitive bow design.
Arrows must be of natural materials and feather fletched. Though the use of self-made shafts is encouraged commercially available natural shafts may be used. Nocks to be self nocks or reinforced with natural materials. “Stick-on” taper fit nocks may not be used. Synthetic finishes and glues may be used in arrow construction.
No applied mark or other sight aid may be used on the bow limbs or handle. No form of arrow-rest may be attached to the side of the bow. Arrows must be shot off the hand.
Though the use of natural string materials is encouraged, synthetic materials are permitted. The bowstring may be of different colours as long as they run continuously and evenly throughout the string's length, but the centre serving, if used, shall be of one colour. One nocking point is permitted. String silencers are permitted but no other knots or attachments in addition to the serving which could be of use for sighting or location purposes is allowed.
One anchor point must be maintained throughout the shoot. No draw-checks of any kind are permitted. No archer may refer to any memoranda which could in any manner be a means of improving his or her score.
Any form of hand loose may be used including Mediterranean, two finger, pinch, thumb ring etc. No form of mechanical release aid is permitted. Finger protection, such as shooting gloves, tabs, or thumb rings may be used. Three fingers under and string walking are specifically not allowed within this class"
 

Dave Budd

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Thanks for the info Bent Stick! Looks like I have REALLY gotta get my **** into gear and get a bow made! :D

I'm glad they introduced the primitive class. I haven't shot in anger in nearly 4 years, but when I did I didn't shoot HT becuase I don't like shooting recurves and I refused to shoot AFB (I knew some offish folk in that class at the time :( ) and longbows are not nice to shoot imo.

so, get myself a bow made soon. rejoin NFAS asap, then become proficient again! easy :eek:

Just as well I'm running a primitive arow course in feb, gives me the chance to get some self arows made :D
 

Dave Budd

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i may try some bone/antler/horn target points to see what they are like, but I guess if they are no larger in diameter than the shaft (or very little) I can't see them doing anymore damage than steel or brass. They would be a lot lighter though :rolleyes:
 

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