handling a kiridashi in antler?!

[forrestdweller]

the last few month have been turbulent for me with a rather bitter disappointment in end of march... . since may things have somehow improved for me as i found a new job on a campground. my main task is mowing grass which is not that exciting BUT i'm compensated by the fact that i'm sorounded by nature and have MT. FUJI in plain sight. it's also nice to be able to play ""knifey, knifey, spoon"" with my workmates without getting odd looks (==most of them are forresters!)- i still win by numbers...; not to mention the beautiful little nata i recently bought from a blacksmith' shop . i also have 3students to teach spoon carving (+another workmate to gave it a try, too, before leaving), the wife of my boss bought herself a flint-and-steel kit after seeing me using my striker to start a fire---> i like it here!
there is also an abundance of wildlife around, i saw my first wild bear and the number of deer is incredible! as a result of the high deer numbers i permanently stubmble accross shed antlers on my walks- the record was four in prime condition during a 1-hour morning walk... .

the father of one of my workmates gave me a beautifully handforged kiridashi blade and i plan to handle it into a piece of antler for more comfortable to use. the problem is that the blade is already heat treated so i daresay drilling holes for brass pins is out of option... . somewhere i read that antler can be softened by soaking in water and the tang can be pushed in-- is this correct and if yes- how exactly is this done?! (the part i plan to handle measures 18.7mm near the blade, tapering to 16mm at the rear and is ca 110mm long)

 

[mick91]

I tried this method myself with antler. I boiled it in plain water for around an hour and pushed the tang into the core. The antler swells and softens in the water and then contracts and hardens back. It still seems pretty secure. I did it with an obsidian blade but I'm pretty sure that it'll work with steel. If you have spare antler I would say do a practice run because it isn't easy to push in

 

[forrestdweller]

sounds simple... so basically you just stick it into a pot of boiling water and simmer it an hour?! does it smell(=can it be done in the kitchen)?!
i have about 20antlers and some of them rather old (=previous seasons)-- i guess i can spare a piece...

 

[mick91]

It does smell a little. Sort of a musty smell. You can do it in cold water but it takes weeks. It has something to do with the naturally occouring epoxy melting. I tried a few methods like boiling in brine to increase the temperature and even a misguided attempt soaking in a solution of lye. But plain old tap water was the only thing that didn't seem to damage the antler. I guess time wise over an hour wouldn't hurt. But I would say an hour minimum. Pressure cooking it works too. If it isn't soft enough just drop it back in the water for longer

 

[BogdanS]

In case you wish to use pins i will tell you a trick to drill hardened steel - buy a concrete drill bit of the size of your pins and clamp it in a drill press;fix the tang for drilling and press on the drilling press with some force and keep it like this untill you will nottice that the steel (due to heat created by friction) will change color to blue near the drill point and then to red and the drill will start creating span and the hole you need (the tang will be annealed only 5-7 mm near the point of drilling so the heat treatment of the balde will not be affected).

I hope this helps!

All the best,
Bogdan

 

[HillBill]

You can also get cobalt or carbide drill bits for similar money to masonry bits...... much better for making the hole. Last one i bought was about was £9.... masonry bits are about £7. (here anyway) Masonry bits are designed to be used in a hammer drill, so are not efficient in drilling through steel

 

[BogdanS]

Thanks for the advice Bill!
What i said only applies when talking about high hardened steel; i tried this on a 60-62 HRC o1 tool steel blade (when a customer changed his mind from 4 to 6 mm pins ) and the Bosch or Ruko cobalt drills were only scratching it before go blunt.
But this is only my experience so it is not necessary correct.

All the best mate,
Bogdan

You can also get cobalt or carbide drill bits for similar money to masonry bits...... much better for making the hole. Last one i bought was about was £9.... masonry bits are about £7. (here anyway) Masonry bits are designed to be used in a hammer drill, so are not efficient in drilling through steel

 

[mick91]

If you're drilling anything really hard just make sure to keep your revs low and keep it lubricated. Saves it buggering your drill bits. And a mark with a center punch for it to start to bite in can't hurt

 

[richardhomer]

Sounds like you have a cracking job there

 

[forrestdweller]

Sounds like you have a cracking job there

indeed- i wish i could turn it into a long-term solution (my visa runs out in a few month and renewing sounds tricky)...

getting a carbide drill bit sounds like a good idea, too as all the antlers are slightly curved which makes finding a long and straight enough section tricky... wish i'd know if the metal is hardened all the way through or only the blade....

 

[HillBill]

Test it with a file. If it bites in to the steel, its likely not hardened much or at all. If its hardened it will just skate across the surface.

 

[HillBill]

Carbide is harder than cobalt, and is what i have used to drill hardened steel. Run it slow and keep it cool.

Thanks for the advice Bill!
What i said only applies when talking about high hardened steel; i tried this on a 60-62 HRC o1 tool steel blade (when a customer changed his mind from 4 to 6 mm pins ) and the Bosch or Ruko cobalt drills were only scratching it before go blunt.
But this is only my experience so it is not necessary correct.

All the best mate,
Bogdan

 

[ged]

I have to second the cracking job sentiment!

If you're near Mt. Fuji then you can probably get someone local to laser cut some holes for you.

 

[forrestdweller]

Test it with a file. If it bites in to the steel, its likely not hardened much or at all. If its hardened it will just skate across the surface.

i did the ""file test"" yesterday- file grips well near the rear but less as you move forwrds to the blade part... . so i hope a carbide drill bit will do the job- providing i find someone in the hardware shop who understands what i'm after and i manage to get the bench drill working again (needs TLC)-- otherwise i have to use the cordless drill...