Gabardine Jacket Query

[Bookshelf]

Hi all,

I have a query about gabardine jackets/smocks that I was hoping other members could help with.

I'm looking for a jacket for fishing, walking and hunting that is 100% cotton, in olive-green (i.e. not camo), but otherwise resembles the British Army S95 smock/jacket (i.e. with baggy pockets and a full-length zip, as well as being lightweight, and shower- and thorn-proof).

While reading other posts, I came across 100% cotton gabardine. Is this material robust - in other words, as robust as the fabric the S95 jacket is made of and, if not, could it be doubled-up in thickness to increase its thorn-proof qualities?

Anyway, I'm thinking about getting someone to make me a jacket out of 100% cotton gabardine, based on the S95 one. However, before I do that, does anyone know of a quality commercial version with the above features? Earlier posts talked about the SASS smock, but I believe they're no longer made.

All the best, and I look forward to hearing from you!

Bookshelf.

 

[Erbswurst]

The German navy issued totally different looking Gabardine coats, long and short.

The short ones are called Colani like the designer family. But attention, there are wool versions too.

 

[Toddy]

Were they wool rather than cotton though ?
Wool gaberdine is very much showerproof, and it's warm even when soaked. Heavy though.

 

[Erbswurst]

Good question.

I think Gabardine is the weaving pattern rather than the material description and what was issued by the armies probably was a material mix of wool and viscose, perhaps containing a bit cotton too.

But to be honest I just used them because that's a great summer material for fresh and windy weather.

For such complicated questions we have here a Technical Lesson Master, a @TLM.

 

[SCOMAN]

I don't know the cost of gaberdine material and manufacture but would a ventile option suit? They're not cheap and I haven't used the company myself;

St Kilda Jacket | weather-wise-wear

This superb jacket offers the wearer excellent weather protectionFeatures:-Full front zip with double storm flaps incorporating chin guard.Ventile linedDouble layer Ventile on the seamless shoulders. (with a Ventile lining this makes the shoulders triple layer)Two upper front external cargo...

www.weatherwisewear.co.uk

 

[Bookshelf]

Hi all, thank you very much for your advice and replies. Scoman: I haven't got as far as finding out the cost involved in getting one made, but if it's expensive I won't go ahead. The St Kilda looks wonderful but is, as you say, rather expensive! If only a commercial outfit made a 100% cotton gabardine military-style jacket in non-military colours!

 

[Yngve Cymric]

Varustekla in scandi sell a non camo version of the windproof smock

Sent from my S68Pro using Tapatalk

 

[Yngve Cymric]

Särmä Windproof Smock - Varusteleka.com

If you're tired of sweating in 'tex clothing but want protection from the wind and rain, give this windproof smock a try. International delivery.

www.varusteleka.com

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[Tiley]

I don't know the cost of gaberdine material and manufacture but would a ventile option suit? They're not cheap and I haven't used the company myself;

St Kilda Jacket | weather-wise-wear

This superb jacket offers the wearer excellent weather protectionFeatures:-Full front zip with double storm flaps incorporating chin guard.Ventile linedDouble layer Ventile on the seamless shoulders. (with a Ventile lining this makes the shoulders triple layer)Two upper front external cargo...

www.weatherwisewear.co.uk

That looks very like the now unavailable SASS Kit smock. It looks good but I always struggle to see the point of bum and arm pockets...

 

[Billy-o]

I have a UK army smock made of gaberdine ... only cost £35 snagged off the ebay, and is in all ways bloody marvellous. You'll still see them. You just have to put some hours in. Lighter than the standard variety; quicker to dry out, better at bouncing the wind off. too All depends if you can live with the camo. It is an SAS pattern, I think. But, I cant quite recall what exactly that meant. Something to do with the hood? It is amazing how all those distinctions that mean so much at the time of hunting mean so little a few years later.

Silvermans sell their own version of it, and if you are ever in London the place is worth a visit. Theirs are between £170-250, though. Just DPM left in stock now. I notice there's one in 180/104. That's my size

I never understand why things like this aren't made in plain green. Though, since Uncle Ray is more or less off the TV now promoting the great outdoors, I suppose there aren't many that see an opportunity in making stuff for his audience.

SAS WINDPROOF SMOCK

Genuine British-made new old stock. Once sold, these cannot be made again!Four bulgy pockets, superb gabardine windproof material. Dries very quickly. Full zip with covering flap. Hood attached.DPM and desert colour are genuine SAS issue. Black are popular with police and security forces.We now...

www.silvermans.co.uk

SASSKit used to make an amazing one in Ventile. Sold mine ... I have no freaking clue why I did; likely one of those phases of poverty that fall on one periodically.

EDIT - I just had a look on ebay. There are half a dozen or so. Check with the seller that it is actually gabardine. Sometimes people get confused with their terminology.

OLD SCHOOL BRITISH ARMY SURPLUS DPM CAMO SAS ARCTIC WINDPROOF SMOCK,GABERDINE,02 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for OLD SCHOOL BRITISH ARMY SURPLUS DPM CAMO SAS ARCTIC WINDPROOF SMOCK,GABERDINE,02 at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Bookshelf]

Hi Billy-o,

Thank you very much for the information. I'd like to use it for hunting, fishing and casual wear, and think that the military camo pattern might be a tad un-PC! However, I'll keep on the lookout for one, and will post again if I can track one down in olive green, etc.

It's a shame that manufacturers don't think of the civvie market, but then I guess it's a matter of supply and demand!

Cheers for now,

Bookshelf.

 

[Philster]

You can get the S95 smock in black, there's a few on Ebay. And it is possible to find Green ones too. Just need to dig in

 

[MikeLA]

Owned a SAS dpm gabardine smock from survival aids in the 1980s and a SASS made one. They were excellent the best smocks i have ever owned light tough and windproof.

 

[cipherdias]

That looks very like the now unavailable SASS Kit smock. It looks good but I always struggle to see the point of bum and arm pockets...

Whatever happened to SASS? They had some bloody good kit!


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[nitrambur]

Another vote for the Särmä Windproof Smock, but not if your heart really is set on 100% cotton. Varusteleka know their stuff and wouldn't choose polycotton if it was no good.

 

[Kilbith]

100% cotton gabardine must be heavy (like +200g/m²) if you want something really resistant. Same (and worst) for the rare wool gabardine.
Normally you could accept some synthetic with cotton. Of course "G1000" from Fjallraven is a good exemple, but every polycotton is quite good (ex : varusteleka).
The classical OD nyco jacket is of course US M65 (very very resistant). You could find repro at fine price.

 

[JB101]

A couple of alternatives here , Claymore do make to measure so you could specify what you want.

https://claymore-jackets.business.site/website/claymore-jackets/

DARK GREEN CLASSIC WAX COTTON MOTORCYCLE JACKET

Dark Green Classic Belted Classic Style Motorcycle jacket, made in heavy duty twelve ounce green wax cotton. As used by motorcyclists the world over, made using traditional techniques and Genuine wax cotton oil skin fabric. Contrast studs lined with tartan lining. Storm Cuffs . Breast Map...

www.speedwear.co.uk

Jackets – Fortis Clothing

fortisclothing.co.uk

 

[bigbear]

A word for Ventile, I too has an SSAS smock which I got here second hand, wore for years, loved, and sold at a crazy profit on Ebay to part fund a Hilltrek Double ventile full zip jacket, a truly wondrous piece of kit. It will see me out.
Never owned Gabardine but I too understand it go be burly stuff, not sure if double Ventile would be lighter or not.

 

[Billy-o]

Yes, Ventile is good too ... in fact I am not sure I understand the difference between it and gabardine ... maybe gabardine is lighter, slightly crinklier sounding? But they seem to behave just well as each other, windproof and waterresitant if they have a DWR on

I wondered if this might suit you. I keep looking at it long and hard, but can't get my credit card to agree.

Dee Wading Jacket

A fully waterproof and highly breathable fishing jacket designed for wading in even the worst spring and autumn weather conditions.

hilltrek.co.uk

 

[TLM]

Seems slightly complicated as usual. Ventile originally seems to be very long fiber cotton plain weave, very tight. Gabardine apparently is a twill weave, tight but can be made of various materials. Ridged on one side smoother on the other. Both gain fron DWR or wax impregnation.

So not really a weave style or material but a combination.