Froe: a new to me tool

[bb07]

I've never used one but have always been intrigued by them, so decided to get one and see how I get along with it. Unfortunately it will be some time before I'll be able to try it out, so in the meantime I will have to be content with reading and research.
If any of you have useful tips and advice to pass along, I would love to hear from you.
These tools aren't exactly easy to find these days, but this is the one I purchased:
Shingle and Riving Froe

Instructions for it's use are given at the bottom of the catalogue page:
instructions

 

[Biker]

Nice looking tool.

I picked up a 200mm long Froe at a boot fair here in France. I haven't used it yet simply because It's packed in a box someplace in storage. I've been interested in doing greenwood stuff so nabbed it with the idea of one day being able to have a play.

Making the club to use it with is easy. Just grab yourself a stout round 4 inch diameter branch saw around one end a hand's width up and chisel off the wood from the end grain to form the handle. Simplicity itself.

How long do you have to wait until it arrives?

 

[Toddy]

Russ bought one to take to meet ups. Anyone can use one safely. No sharp edge to flinch at when someone hits it in the ground, or on a sandy log. No worries about folks slicing hands, legs, ankles, etc.,

It's a balance thing though. You can only hit it as hard as you can hold it down, otherwise it springs and doesn't go into the end timber.

Incredibly useful tool, a very practical tool, think battoning on a large scale with no need for wedges

cheers,
M

 

[Dave]

The cheaper ones to be had are normally cast and welded, and not forged, I seem to recall reading somewhere..

 

[British Red]

I like them - Eric Methven gave me mine

Clearly you can get very even and controlled splits. One thing to practice is directing the split. By pushing, pulling and twisting the handle you can direct the split in different ways if its running too close to one side or the other. This is must useful on longer work pieces (cleaved fence rails, tool handles etc.)

Great tools - enjoy!

 

[Macaroon]

Indispensable tool when cleaving Ash and the like for handles, especially the long staves. As BR says, once you get the hang of "steering" the split you'll get the best and strongest quarters, vastly superior to quarter sawn as the fibres haven't been sliced clean through with a saw...............

A pleasure to use, and extremely satisfying!

 

[Stew]

I have plans to make my own - any thoughts on best sizes or is it a case of it depend on what I plan to use it on?

 

[British Red]

Opposite of knives I think Stew - bigger is better

 

[Stew]

Opposite of knives I think Stew - bigger is better

How big though? I'm sure I could make something ridiculously big if needed!

 

[British Red]

Indispensable tool when cleaving Ash and the like for handles, especially the long staves. As BR says, once you get the hang of "steering" the split you'll get the best and strongest quarters, vastly superior to quarter sawn as the fibres haven't been sliced clean through with a saw...............

A pleasure to use, and extremely satisfying!

I've never yet done tool handles...would love to see a step by step pictorial

 

[Stew]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X94MPJigySQ&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Saw the title and thought, "bet it would take me a lot longer than 2 minutes to make!"

 

[Macaroon]

I've never yet done tool handles...would love to see a step by step pictorial

I'd be happy to do that tutorial, but it might be some time yet as I'm still recovering from three operations on both hands and still have restricted use of both - but they're on the mend!

 

[Macaroon]

How big though? I'm sure I could make something ridiculously big if needed!

I've had a few, but the one I always reach for was made from an old Elwell slasher and is 300mm; it takes care of everything I ask of it superbly

 

[British Red]

I'd be happy to do that tutorial, but it might be some time yet as I'm still recovering from three operations on both hands and still have restricted use of both - but they're on the mend!

Whenever you have a minute would be grand - get well soon and shout if you need liquid analgesia

 

[British Red]

How big though? I'm sure I could make something ridiculously big if needed!

A damn site more than 6"! Macaroon's suggestion of 12" seems about right - although a 12" and one about 8" would be ideal I think. Once you get beyond 12" you are into wedge territory for splitting I suspect.

 

[Quixoticgeek]

I have a froe of my own, it's a fraction under 12" long. Aside from a pair of knifes, it's actually the only tool I have for woodcraft that is in a usable state (I have an axe, but it is short a handle, see the thread in the resources section).

The key detail with a fro is that it needs to be longer than the diameter of the wood you want to split. You need enough blade length on the free end to bang it when you have got the blade more than a blades depth into the log.

You also want to get *really* good at carving mauls. You won't be using a metal hammer on the fro blade, and you won't be using your favourite wooden mallet if you are doing any serious splitting. Find a piece chestnut or similiar that is about 4-5" diameter, chop it into lengths of about a foot. Carve one end down to a handle like thickness, and round off the top of the hitting end. With a good axe, shouldn't take you too long to make. When I've used a froe for making shingles in the past, the mauls were falling to pieces every 3-5 logs. If you are just using the froe to do one split, you can pick up a useful lump of wood off the firewood pile and use that, but it's not going to be pleasant for long term use.

Good luck

J

 

[bb07]

How long do you have to wait until it arrives?

I already have it in my grubby paws. Once every year or two I find myself in a city. The only thing good about it is being able to buy things directly from a store rather than wait for packages to arrive in the mail.

I've never yet done tool handles...would love to see a step by step pictorial

Yes!!

I'd be happy to do that tutorial, but it might be some time yet as I'm still recovering from three operations on both hands and still have restricted use of both - but they're on the mend!

I'll be looking forward to that. I sincerely hope you mend quickly and are back to normal.
Hand injuries are no fun for those of us that love to work with our hands.

Thanks everyone, I appreciate you passing your knowledge along.

 

[ozzy1977]

Ray Isles makes them

 

[Everything Mac]

I've found anything around 10-12" is about perfect for average use. I've used much bigger ones on some big logs but you won't go wrong with ~12".
You really want a bit poking out from the log you're splitting so you can bash it with a baton.

Easy to make from an old spring. You can weld up the eye but a certain amount of flex is perfectly ok. Soft temper.

Andy

 

[laro13]

Is there a difference between a froe with a one sided bevel or one with both sides bevelled?

I want to make one from a leaf spring:
http://traditionalskills.wordpress.com/tag/leaf-spring/