Finishing bows

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badgeringtim

Nomad
May 26, 2008
480
0
cambridge
i know there are quite a few posts about bows and the making of, but something i have not actually come across is how to 'finish' them.
I presume after the scraping the bow is smooth as it will get (ie you don't sand after it), but then is it just oiled? or is there a smoother sheen even varnishy type finish that can be used?

As a brief aside where i have odd things going on with the grain in my staves scraping can make rough sections where the grain crosses over - if i sand these out after tillering will it bias the bow again?

Yes i know if i have perfect straight grained wood this will not happen - but you use what you can get dont you?
thanks
 

Seoras

Mod
Mod
Oct 7, 2004
1,926
117
57
Bramley, Hampshire
After sanding and oiling I bone the bow. Basically I use either a small round pebble or the back of a teaspoon and rub all over the bow.

Sounds dodgy I know but after a few hours you will see your bow really shine.

Do the same with spoons and cups after carving. In most cases you will see the shine but I finished an ash spoon recently and it would just not shine. Maybe it was too green.

The other benefit of this is the rubbing seals the oil into the wood.

Good luck

George
 

Bardster

Native
Apr 28, 2005
1,118
12
54
Staplehurst, Kent
As seoras says, boning is a good thing. It basically compresses the top layer of fibres and thus makes them more resilient. Do this after oiling your bow with something like linseed oil or danish oil. The oils will set off and leave a hard finish. You can then use beeswax as a polish if you want it shiney. I prefer not to varnish bows as although varnish will let moisture pass out it wont let it pass back in again - and the wood can get too dry, and therefore brittle.
Sanding will affect tillering but not greatly, in the same way that scraping will affect it. If your scraper is leaving rough patches it may need its burr redefining so that it cuts cleaner. A good sharp scraper should cut across the grain regardless of direction.
 

badgeringtim

Nomad
May 26, 2008
480
0
cambridge
thanks gents,
so;
cut tree down - rough shape, let it dry:
shape some more, spoke shave, tiller with scraper and towards the end of tillering sand down, oil then give it a good rubbing and beeswax rght at the end if you want a shine.

You know the surface are of a bow seems a lot to rub over with a pebble...how imortant is that stage and how often would you antisipate having to re-do the finishing of the bow from oil and polishing?
 

Bardster

Native
Apr 28, 2005
1,118
12
54
Staplehurst, Kent
Doesn't have to be a pebble, I often use a bottle :D Its not terribly important though. I only do it for "special" bows. Though all mine are oiled. To maintain a bow it should only need re oiling perhaps once a year depending on use.
 

dwardo

Bushcrafter through and through
Aug 30, 2006
6,455
477
46
Nr Chester
Doesn't have to be a pebble, I often use a bottle :D Its not terribly important though. I only do it for "special" bows. Though all mine are oiled. To maintain a bow it should only need re oiling perhaps once a year depending on use.

I use a beer bottle too ;) always seem to have one to hand for some reason :rolleyes: (make sure you use the smooth side of the bottle and watch the seam, filling it with sand also makes it srtonger and heavier.)

I scrape, sand, wirewool. The i use a polly varnish. Yes oil is nice but needs to be mantained and i generally stump shoot in the woods so prefer the tougher finish. Not very authentic but hey..
 
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badgeringtim

Nomad
May 26, 2008
480
0
cambridge
A Polly varnish - like one that can put the kettle on..?
I assume you mean some sort of polycarbonate based plasticy varnish. Sorry not familiar with that term.
Also the wire wool stage - what benefit does that have appart from dirtying up the sanding finish?
Being realistic i think a good sturdy finish might be more imprtant than an authentic one. Im not down for harvesting bear fat and rubbing that in and using strings made from womens hair....yet! although oiling and buffing i might get away with.

I can see i need to work out the little imperfections i am getting much earlier - they are where the grain does odd things rather than the scraper being worn so have to work from either side of it - which is a pain but one of the prices for not having a perfect stave i suppose! Also perhapse a waring that maybe it is worth spending time to get a good straight non funny grained piece, like i have not had my eyes open for an age!!
 

dwardo

Bushcrafter through and through
Aug 30, 2006
6,455
477
46
Nr Chester
Someone over on primitve archer said something along the lines of "better wood makes a better bow but poor wood makes a better bowyer" Genius!..cant find the link now but so true.

Polyurethane ronseal stuff as far as i remember thinned out. Will go throught the garage when i get a sec oil finishes look so nice but i dont have to time to maintain them and generally when i use my bow i am out for a couple of days camping so its all weathers.

Clean, new wirewool shouldnt stain the bow just abraize it, have a play on a broken limb ;) I have loads of them...
 
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badgeringtim

Nomad
May 26, 2008
480
0
cambridge
well im off to 'forn parts but will be going through this once i get back and have achance to tart up the bows.
The top of one of my nocks split the other day which is a bit bum but i think i will carry on and glue some thread or a wooden strnegthener onto it.
I have yet to have a decent stave all mine are knotty and probably going to knock me a good en when i try to use em and they break but i just cant not try to finish em...

:eek:)
 

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