Finish/sealant used on EnZo Trapper scales?

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Madra rua

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Mar 20, 2004
17
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Ireland
Hello,
I've been a lurker more than a poster on this forum but I find it really informative and I'm hoping people might have some information on an Enzo Trapper I recently bought.
It's a terrific knife, stainless steel, sharp, strong and produces great sparks with a firesteel. The only thing I'm wondering about is the finish on the curly birch scales. They look quite pale and glossy, like they have been coated in a weatherproof sealant. I would prefer a matt finish that I could treat with linseed oil and bring out a light golden colour that I have seen on other curly birch handled knives.
Does anyone know what the finish on the scales might be? How to remove it? And if it is a good idea or should I leave it alone?
Thanks in advance.
 
When I put the scales on mine I sanded them down and then just rubbed on a few coats of boiled linseed oil over the next couple of days and it's been fine for over 2 years. Usually give it a wee top up once every couple of months along with a good sharpen.
 
When I put the scales on mine I sanded them down and then just rubbed on a few coats of boiled linseed oil over the next couple of days and it's been fine for over 2 years. Usually give it a wee top up once every couple of months along with a good sharpen.
Thanks Jinsin456,
I used to carry out the same process on an EKA knife that I had and it worked fine and looked good. This new knife I have now came finished with what seems like some polyurethane coating and I'm wondering if it's possible to remove that without making a mess the scales.
Cheers,
Fint
 
Light sanding will remove most types of coating. Always like boiled linseed my self but be prepared for any finish to dull and darken. The wood its self will darken over time not to mention the grim and dirt from your hands but it all adds character.
 
If you want to try cleaning it off without damage use wire wool, you might find this gives the desired satin finish all in one process. My first trapper was soaked in Danish oil and came out almost glowing then I knocked it back with the wire wool.
 
Curly Birch is likely to have been stabilised to prevent movement. It's kind of like pressure soaking the wood in a resin similar to fibreglass resin. If this is the case, it can't be removed because it is right in the wood. It's used on woods with complex grain to strengthen and stop the wood trying to change shape in situ.

I'd take some fine wire wool and cut the surface back, then just oil as usual.
 
Thanks for all of the replies. I'll try using wire wool first to cut the surface layer and see how it goes.
Cheers !
Fint
 
Thanks for all of the replies. I'll try using wire wool first to cut the surface layer and see how it goes.
Cheers !
Fint

My feeling is you're stuck with the colour, but you can have the surface at any grade that suits. Your description of plasticky polyurethane fits that of stabilising resin exactly. I'm personally not a fan of stabilised woods for the very same reason, plus I always feel that the handle is more plastic than wood and tend to choose micartas and G10 instead if that's the finish I want.

Just so's you know, the Enzo handles are very easy to replace with custom jobbies.
 
Hi, I finally got around to doing something with the scales this week. I gave them a light rub with wire wool and each evening this week I've applied a little linseed oil and it actually seems to be taking it up. I think it's much improved from the pale appearance it had when I got it.

Thanks.
 

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