Finally I can sharpen a knife properly thanks to this forum.
Last week I decided as I bought some new bushy knives and my first axe I would go about learning how to sharpen correctly and this forum has been great for advice.
I have been able to keep my mora and others very sharp, but I invested in a set of water stones. 800,1200 and 600 + holder from axeminster.
Tried the mora on them, all good, so cracked on with the bush knives (expensive ones!!), what a disaster. To be honest they were a bit of a mess and after re watching good old Ray several times and re sharpening I was getting no where. I had no idea what i was doing wrong but even the stroping was making a bad job even worse. Must admit I was a bit gutted as I thought I had done some bad damage to the knives.
So I read all the articles on sharpening on BCUK as I guessed my probs would have already been covered before. Loads of info on here which I found very helpfull. To start with I found out I was doing the storpping wrong and ordered a board and pink compound from Axeminster (I know I could have made one but I am a bit lazy sometimes), this was covered again by member Red.
So back to the stones, after reading this forum and all the links etc.. I worked out I was lying the bevel on the stone but was not applying enough pressure to the edge ie not cutting in the stone. As soon as I did this I could tell the difference, I also didn't end up with all the vertical line marks on the front of the blade.
Now time for the stropping, again following advise from the forum. WOW, these suckers are now sharp and shinny!!! The difference is amazing, will shave hair with hardly any pressure and slice though paper like butter, simply awesome. I am so happy and all thanks to the forum here and its members. My left arm looks a bit funny though with no hair, good job its winter I guess.
The weird thing I noticed though, the normal check I do to see if a knife is sharp, is to run a thumb latterally across the blade, the motion most people do, now when I do this is doesn't feel as sharp as they used to but the knives are in deed sharper, is because the edge is in fact smoother or something?
The other success story is that I chipped my axe in the garden, was very anoyed as it was at the same time I was having trouble with the knives, well after a bit of research again on here I have succesfully removed the chips (which were quite large), with the aid of files and stones and a lot of elbow greese, it's now lovely and sharp again, although I still need to practise my shrapening technique but I am happy with the results I have got.
Any hoo, I am well chuffed with my efforts, now whats the best way to maintain the blades if using them quite a bit, just go fwith the 1200 and 600 and then stropp? or go through the whole routine.
As a matter on interest I have a Bison Forester with apple scales and a Stuart Marsh Bushcrafter with walnut diamond wood scales
Thanks again guys especially to Red for all his posts on the subject.
John.
Last week I decided as I bought some new bushy knives and my first axe I would go about learning how to sharpen correctly and this forum has been great for advice.
I have been able to keep my mora and others very sharp, but I invested in a set of water stones. 800,1200 and 600 + holder from axeminster.
Tried the mora on them, all good, so cracked on with the bush knives (expensive ones!!), what a disaster. To be honest they were a bit of a mess and after re watching good old Ray several times and re sharpening I was getting no where. I had no idea what i was doing wrong but even the stroping was making a bad job even worse. Must admit I was a bit gutted as I thought I had done some bad damage to the knives.
So I read all the articles on sharpening on BCUK as I guessed my probs would have already been covered before. Loads of info on here which I found very helpfull. To start with I found out I was doing the storpping wrong and ordered a board and pink compound from Axeminster (I know I could have made one but I am a bit lazy sometimes), this was covered again by member Red.
So back to the stones, after reading this forum and all the links etc.. I worked out I was lying the bevel on the stone but was not applying enough pressure to the edge ie not cutting in the stone. As soon as I did this I could tell the difference, I also didn't end up with all the vertical line marks on the front of the blade.
Now time for the stropping, again following advise from the forum. WOW, these suckers are now sharp and shinny!!! The difference is amazing, will shave hair with hardly any pressure and slice though paper like butter, simply awesome. I am so happy and all thanks to the forum here and its members. My left arm looks a bit funny though with no hair, good job its winter I guess.
The weird thing I noticed though, the normal check I do to see if a knife is sharp, is to run a thumb latterally across the blade, the motion most people do, now when I do this is doesn't feel as sharp as they used to but the knives are in deed sharper, is because the edge is in fact smoother or something?
The other success story is that I chipped my axe in the garden, was very anoyed as it was at the same time I was having trouble with the knives, well after a bit of research again on here I have succesfully removed the chips (which were quite large), with the aid of files and stones and a lot of elbow greese, it's now lovely and sharp again, although I still need to practise my shrapening technique but I am happy with the results I have got.
Any hoo, I am well chuffed with my efforts, now whats the best way to maintain the blades if using them quite a bit, just go fwith the 1200 and 600 and then stropp? or go through the whole routine.
As a matter on interest I have a Bison Forester with apple scales and a Stuart Marsh Bushcrafter with walnut diamond wood scales
Thanks again guys especially to Red for all his posts on the subject.
John.