*chuckle* Finesse? Moi?
...
Youre being way too modest, big_swede. Finesse comes with experience, and youre one of the most experienced cold climate outdoorsman on these forums.
I understand that to many people the medium to large fixed blades seem over engineered, and there may be some truth to that. And I believe that it is intended that the almost 100% guarantee that what ever one does to the knife or needs to do with the knife in an emergency and without a serious failure of the tool is meant to provide the owner with some assurance, as you have mentioned.
The 5mm+ blades have no chance of flexing let alone breaking when subjected to the greatest force that any person can apply to the knife (with the possible exception of an incorrect batoning technique). Id be very worried if I had to use a Mora knife to pry slabs of wood off a log to make dry kindling, having been separated from my kit and specifically the axe. Thats an extreme scenario, and not many of us are going to experience that or anything like it, but if one imagines one might, then, what is to all reasonable expectations an unbreakable knife, becomes a more attractive prospect to some. I think that this assured reliability is what is informing the recent popularity for thick blades, and not just those of the Fallkniven brand.
Im convinced that the Thermuron and Kraton handled Fallkniven knives were designed for cold weather use (Im talking, proper, Scandinavian winter cold, not, UK cold) hence no metal on the handle, and a thin handle that is more comfortable and less fatiguing to the hand muscles when wearing thick, arctic region type mittens, for instance. And in these circumstances the chequered grips become less problematic. The chequered grips can become uncomfortable pretty quickly when using the knife with a lot force in a forehand grip, but those types of cuts on dry hard woods are pretty hard on soft skinned, un-gloved/un-mittened hands, what ever the shape or texture of the handle, at least thats my experience to date. Obviously some handle shapes and materials are more comfortable that others, but I find that the skin of the palm of the hand over the lower knuckle of the first finger gets hot and sore what ever knife I use in a forehand grip, for long shaving cuts to hard wood (low density soft woods are somewhat different in this respect) . Apart from wearing gloves I dont see a solution to this problem, unless I develop heavily calloused hands, which is something I havent had for about 20 years.
The S1 has a blade that is a little longer than is currently favoured by many (no longer than the width of the palm of ones hand), but I wanted to find out if that extra bit of length would help when batoning (This is why I bought the Aurora, also). Batoning is not a technique I like and, like you, would rather use a hatchet or axe for the heavier jobs. But the ability to baton seems to be a prime requisite in a survival knife and specifically when that knife is the only tool at ones disposal (up Sh*t Creek and without a paddle). And again, the thick flat spine on a thick blade will destroy a baton more slowly than a thin spined blade. Of course, the swedge (unsharpened, false edge) on the S1 is thin thus giving no advantage over a thin blade when batoning toward the tip of the knife, and that was one of the reasons I had it removed on the S1 modding project I collaborated on with the member, Shinken.
On my Thermorun S1 Ive almost flattened the convexed high bevels which has reduced the wedging of the blade and have thinned the area below the lamination line, and put a convexed micro bevel at the cutting edge. The micro bevel is helping considerably in preventing the much thinned VG-10 from chipping. And the thinning of the VG-10 has greatly improved the knifes wood carving abilities.
And Im planning on adjusting the cross-section of the blade on the modded S1 in a similar way.
Despite the VG-10 being tough, it hones very easily. Once the edge has been initially polished smooth, an edge can be put back on it with a few stokes on a strop, and I mean about six on each side, not many tens of stokes. On the current beech wood carving project I havent had to strop the VG-10 yet, the zero ground Clipper is blunted, the Hultafors is blunt and the edge has rolled, the two Mora wood carving knives have chipped and blunted, the Eriksson 711 with a micro bevel is still sharp and un-chipped (but this is the knife Ive used least so far on this carving project), the A2 steel of the Aurora is still very, very sharp, though the zero ground convex edge has chipped. I feel that if I put a convexed micro bevel on the Aurora that will prevent further chipping.
(To be clear about the chips, they are too small to be seen with the naked eye, but I can feel them if I run the tip of my thumb nail along the cutting edge)
My current favourite fixed blade from the Fallkniven range is the TK1. I find the idea of the comfort of the wooden handle and powder steel blade a very appealing combination, owning a small folder with a 3G blade, Id very much like to try a fixed blade from this steel. Teamed with a hatchet or axe and a saw, this would take care of pretty much all of my more usual needs from bladed tools.
That said, Ive had a glimpse of perfection (perfect for my general needs, that is) and its the puukko in Hoodoos post #75 in the What's the best grind for your ideal bushcraft knife? sticky thread at the top of the forum (page 2 post#75). The high grind Woodlore variant is a close second, though I much prefer the handle shape of the puukko.
Kind regards,
Paul.
