F1
- Thread starter drstrange
- Start date
I got mine from this guy. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FALLKNIVEN-F1...ryZ16042QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Nothing to do with the seller etc etc...... just a very happy customer. He also sells the Fallkniven DC3/4 stones....ATB....Stu
Nothing to do with the seller etc etc...... just a very happy customer. He also sells the Fallkniven DC3/4 stones....ATB....Stu
Cheers peeps, it's all a much of a muchness at those prices, there's only a couple of quid in it from place to place. I realy like my clipper, but it aint heavy man, and a proper bushy knife is too expensive at the moment (I can hear it already "The F1 is a proper bushy knife!!!"). Is it the best choice?
drstrange said:
Now you're realy trying to open a can of worms
It depends very much on the individual, many of us have them and love them to bits, others do not like the handle or the grind, it is very much a horses for courses questin mate.
Good points about them;
1. There is a blade only option.
2. They definitely cast one of the best showers of sparks I have ever seen from most any knives I have seen (that's both custom and mass produced) without modification.
3. Like it or not they are stainless, so less likely to rust and will take a lot of abuse (In the care department).
4. They feel robust, there is a definite something about them that tells you they will survive.
Bad Points;
1. Not everyone likes the grind and find them difficult to maintain.
2. Not everyone likes stainless, you cannot use them as a traditional flint and steel as they are not high carbon.
3. A fair few people say the handles are too small.
4. Some people think they are too heavy.
For every good point I can find, I can find a point that someone else may find that they don't like about them. As I said very much horses for courses, the only way to tell is to get out there and handle one and see what you think
leon-1 said:Now you're realy trying to open a can of worms
It depends very much on the individual, many of us have them and love them to bits, others do not like the handle or the grind, it is very much a horses for courses questin mate.
Good points about them;
1. There is a blade only option.
2. They definitely cast one of the best showers of sparks I have ever seen from most any knives I have seen (that's both custom and mass produced) without modification.
3. Like it or not they are stainless, so less likely to rust and will take a lot of abuse (In the care department).
4. They feel robust, there is a definite something about them that tells you they will survive.
Bad Points;
1. Not everyone likes the grind and find them difficult to maintain.
2. Not everyone likes stainless, you cannot use them as a traditional flint and steel as they are not high carbon.
3. A fair few people say the handles are too small.
4. Some people think they are too heavy.
For every good point I can find, I can find a point that someone else may find that they don't like about them. As I said very much horses for courses, the only way to tell is to get out there and handle one and see what you think
Thanks for that it's a pretty comprehensive appraisal.
I've been offered a slightly used one for £45, perhaps that'll swing it for me.
I must admit, the only thing that bothers me is the handle, it looks like the serrations might be rough on my fairy liquid hands (soft southern S###e)
drstrange said:
I have used both the F1 and the H1 and had problems with neither of them as far as the handles being rough on my hands, I do prefer a rounder handle, more barrel shaped.
That's why I bought a blank and handled it myself, then made the sheath and got on with it.
I am a fan of the F1 to be honest, but I am not a person to get overly blinkered (at least I hope not anyway) to other peoples opinions and ways of thinking.
Agreed! If you spend your time chasing after other people's ideal you'll never have anything you are truly happy with. Find your own way and make the things that are just right for you and everyone will be asking "where'd ya get that kit, mate?"leon-1 said:
I have the F1 aswell, its a smashing knife, i have 3 in fact. One is a standard and two in 3G steel.
Im thinking of getting the H1 in 3G steel aswell
The F1 is tough on the hands, after a few hours your hands can be sore, but only a much as they would using an axe for a couple hours etc, and after a few weeks use, your hands toughen up to the use. You can also sand them off, well not completly, but to make it softer on the hands.
The H1 is a completly different animal. Ask anyone on the official Fallkniven site and most prefere the H1, who do any kind of hunting anyway, its scandi grind has no guard however, though an experienced user wouldnt need one i suspect. The handle material is also different, its made of a "rubber" type material, which is a LOT softer on the hands and means it wont slip half as easy as the F1 even with gloves when wet with animal entrails or just water (speaking from other peoples comments here, as i dont yet have one). They are supposed to be able to take all the punishment of the F1, plus they are MUCH MUCH better hunting knives. Thats why im on the verge of getting one, though they are a bit unusual (in my opinion) as a bushcraft knife.
The H1 is coming out in 3G steel aswell very soon, any day now, in fact i think distribution has already send some out. You would probably be better buying straight from manufacturer for the 3G though as shops will not likely stock it readily. They still do the VG10 version at a slightly less cost.
Hope there is some useful information for you there.
Craig.
Im thinking of getting the H1 in 3G steel aswell
The F1 is tough on the hands, after a few hours your hands can be sore, but only a much as they would using an axe for a couple hours etc, and after a few weeks use, your hands toughen up to the use. You can also sand them off, well not completly, but to make it softer on the hands.
The H1 is a completly different animal. Ask anyone on the official Fallkniven site and most prefere the H1, who do any kind of hunting anyway, its scandi grind has no guard however, though an experienced user wouldnt need one i suspect. The handle material is also different, its made of a "rubber" type material, which is a LOT softer on the hands and means it wont slip half as easy as the F1 even with gloves when wet with animal entrails or just water (speaking from other peoples comments here, as i dont yet have one). They are supposed to be able to take all the punishment of the F1, plus they are MUCH MUCH better hunting knives. Thats why im on the verge of getting one, though they are a bit unusual (in my opinion) as a bushcraft knife.
The H1 is coming out in 3G steel aswell very soon, any day now, in fact i think distribution has already send some out. You would probably be better buying straight from manufacturer for the 3G though as shops will not likely stock it readily. They still do the VG10 version at a slightly less cost.
Hope there is some useful information for you there.
Craig.
Englander said:
Quite correct, the F1 has a thermorun handle and the H1 has a Kraton handle (which is a slightly softer and warmer compound).
Splurge a little and get the Micarta version, I have handled literally thousands of knives(and I am not talking about junk either) and this is by far my favourite. The only other knife I would consider for a B-C would be the Idun.
Shinken said:
Yep
the H1 is a scandi grind http://www.fallkniven.com/h1.htm . The Idun is a hunting knife (aka NL5), though if your not splurging, i doubt ull want that one.here is the link http://www.fallkniven.com/nothern/us-nl5.htm
Craig.
Craig,
If by scandi grind, you mean the blade is not convex, then I believe you are wrong. It IS a convex grind. I know because I'm holding an H1 now and it looks and feels convex.
If you mean it is scandinavian STYLE (no guard, deep sheath,...), you are correct and you can ignore my post.
bjorn
If by scandi grind, you mean the blade is not convex, then I believe you are wrong. It IS a convex grind. I know because I'm holding an H1 now and it looks and feels convex.
If you mean it is scandinavian STYLE (no guard, deep sheath,...), you are correct and you can ignore my post.
bjorn
Drstrange,
I don't want to decry the opinions of others here but post this just to encourage you to try one. Loads of people really rate the F1 and the convex grind. I find the F1 too thick in the spine, too round in the point, with, probably, the worst damned handle it has been my misfortune too encounter. Its tough for sure, but imprecise to use and uncomfortable. I don't think my opinion is particularly worthy or knowledgeable, I'm just echoing the view of "try before you buy". That said, theres always a market for an F1 second hand so you probably won't me much out of pocket (oh the sheaths are well made - particularly the dangler, the steel is great and they do hold a good edge by the way)
Red
I don't want to decry the opinions of others here but post this just to encourage you to try one. Loads of people really rate the F1 and the convex grind. I find the F1 too thick in the spine, too round in the point, with, probably, the worst damned handle it has been my misfortune too encounter. Its tough for sure, but imprecise to use and uncomfortable. I don't think my opinion is particularly worthy or knowledgeable, I'm just echoing the view of "try before you buy". That said, theres always a market for an F1 second hand so you probably won't me much out of pocket (oh the sheaths are well made - particularly the dangler, the steel is great and they do hold a good edge by the way)
Red
Shinken said:
It is a convex grind <grin> (Yes I know youre being rhetorical) and once one has understood the correct technique, it's the easiest type of grind to maintain a 'shaving sharp' edge on, whether you are at home or in the field'.
The only other edge that is so simple to maintain is the Scandinavian flat grind, and by that I mean a true flat grind with no secondary bevel at the cutting edge.
Oh yes! A can of worms might have been opened <chuckle> Sorry everyone, Ive had a couple of glasses of wine.
Best regards,
Paul
